Bancho Sarayashiki: The Haunting Tale of Okiku’s Well
In the sweltering heat of a Japanese summer, traditionally the season of ghosts and the supernatural, few stories send a shiver down the spine quite like Bancho Sarayashiki (The Dish Mansion at Bancho). As one of Japan’s three great kaidan (ghost stories), alongside Yotsuya Kaidan and Botan Doro, this tale of betrayal, obsession, and a vengeful spirit has captivated audiences for centuries.
For cultural travelers and horror enthusiasts alike, understanding the legend of Okiku and the missing plate offers a fascinating glimpse into Edo-period values and the enduring archetype of the Japanese yurei (ghost).
Origins of the Ghost Story
While the story is widely known today through Kabuki and Bunraku (puppet theater), the origins of Bancho Sarayashiki are a complex tapestry of folklore and historical adaptation. The tale cemented its popularity during the Edo period (1603–1867), a time when urban legends flourished in the bustling capital.
Technically, there are two primary versions of the tale that have blended over time: the Bancho version set in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and the Banshu version set in Himeji. The narrative first appeared in early 17th-century literature, such as the Otogi Boko (Hand Puppets), a collection of strange tales. Over time, playwrights like Okamoto Kido adapted the folklore for the stage, transforming a simple horror story into a tragic psychological drama that humanized the spirits involved.
The Legend of Okiku
The core of the legend revolves around a beautiful servant girl named Okiku and a samurai named Aoyama Tessan. While details vary depending on the theatrical adaptation, the most common narrative is a heartbreaking tragedy.
The Missing Tenth Plate
Okiku worked as a maid in the Aoyama household, entrusted with the care of ten precious Delftware plates (or sometimes gold plates), which were family heirlooms. Aoyama, infatuated with Okiku, tried to seduce her. When she repeatedly rejected his advances, the samurai devised a cruel trap. He hid one of the ten plates and accused Okiku of losing it—a crime punishable by death or severe torture.
Aoyama offered her a deal: become his mistress, and he would overlook the “lost” plate. Okiku, valuing her honor over her life, refused. Enraged, Aoyama threw her into a deep well, killing her.
The Count in the Night
Not long after her murder, a chilling phenomenon plagued the Aoyama mansion. Every night, a ghostly voice would rise from the well. The spirit of Okiku would count the plates: “One… two… three… four…”
The counting would continue slowly and sorrowfully until she reached “nine…” followed by a heart-wrenching shriek or a mournful sob upon realizing the tenth plate was missing. This haunting eventually drove Aoyama to madness. In some versions, the haunting only ceases when a brave priest or neighbor waits for her to count to nine and shouts “Ten!”, tricking the spirit into believing the set is complete so she can finally rest.
Bancho Sarayashiki in Modern Culture
The image of Okiku has fundamentally shaped the global perception of J-Horror. If you have seen the classic film The Ring (Ringu), you have witnessed Okiku’s legacy. The antagonist, Sadako, is a direct modern descendant of Okiku—a long-haired, vengeful female spirit emerging from a well.
Beyond cinema, the story permeates Japanese pop culture:
- Anime and Manga: Series like Gintama and xxxHolic often reference the “counting ghost.”
- Literature: It remains a staple of summer storytelling festivals (Hyakumonogatari Kaidankai).
- Art: Renowned ukiyo-e artists, including Hokusai and Yoshitoshi, produced haunting woodblock prints of Okiku, depicting her as a serpent-like spirit rising from the depths.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Haunted Sites
For travelers looking to walk the line between history and horror, there are tangible locations associated with this legend.
Okiku’s Well at Himeji Castle
The most famous location is undoubtedly at Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Hyogo Prefecture. Located in the Bailey (Bizen Maru) section of the castle grounds, you will find “Okiku’s Well.”
- The Experience: The well is covered with a grate today, but peering into the darkness is an eerie experience. Signs explain the Banshu version of the legend.
- Best Time to Visit: Visit during the summer months to align with the Japanese tradition of telling ghost stories to “cool the blood.”
The Tokyo Connection
In Tokyo, the site of the Aoyama mansion is traditionally believed to be in the Bancho area of Chiyoda ward. While the mansion no longer exists, there are small shrines and memorials in the district dedicated to appeasing spirits, reflecting the city’s layered history of folklore.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Japanese folklore and the context of Bancho Sarayashiki, consider exploring the following:
- Otogi Boko (1666): For early written versions of strange tales.
- Kaidan Literature: Works by Lafcadio Hearn (such as Kwaidan) often touch upon these archetypes.
- Historical Context: While the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki provide the foundation for Shinto kami and early mythology, Bancho Sarayashiki is best understood through the lens of Edo-period Chonin (townspeople) culture and Kabuki scripts.