The Spirit of Okiku: Unveiling Japan’s Most Famous Ghost Story
Japan is a land where the spiritual and the physical worlds often overlap, especially during the humid nights of summer. Among the myriad of yurei (ghosts) that populate Japanese folklore, few are as tragic or as culturally significant as Okiku. Her story, known as Banshu Sarayashiki (The Dish Mansion in Banshu), has terrified and captivated audiences for centuries.
For travelers visiting the majestic Himeji Castle, the experience is not just about architectural splendor; it is about confronting one of Japan’s most enduring haunting legends. Here is the story of the Spirit of Okiku.
The Legend of the Ten Plates
The tale of Okiku is one of Japan’s “Three Great Ghost Stories” (Nihon San Dai Kaidan). While there are various iterations depending on the region and the theatrical adaptation, the most famous version is set in Himeji.
The Betrayal
According to the legend, Okiku was a beautiful and loyal servant working for the samurai Aoyama Tessan. Aoyama, desiring Okiku, constantly made advances toward her, which she repeatedly rejected. Enraged and humiliated by her refusal, Aoyama hatched a cruel plot to blackmail her.
Okiku was responsible for caring for ten precious delftware plates—heirlooms of the master’s house. Aoyama hid one of the plates and then summoned Okiku, accusing her of theft. He offered her a deal: if she agreed to become his mistress, he would overlook the “lost” plate. If she refused, she would be tortured and executed for her negligence.
The Counting in the Night
Okiku, valuing her honor over her life, refused him once again. In a fit of rage, Aoyama had her thrown into a well (some versions say he struck her down, others that she threw herself in out of despair).
Soon after her death, a chilling phenomenon began. Every night, a ghostly voice would rise from the depths of the well, counting the plates:
“Ichimai… Nimai… Sanmai…” (One plate… Two plates… Three plates…)
The voice would count slowly and sorrowfully up to nine (“Kyumai…”), followed by a heart-wrenching shriek of agony upon realizing the tenth was missing. The ghost would then fade away, only to repeat the cycle the following night. The torment eventually drove Aoyama to madness.
Origins and Theatrical History
While the Himeji legend is the most popular among tourists, the story of Okiku originated in the Edo period (1603–1867) and was popularized through the performing arts.
The narrative gained massive popularity through Ningyo Joruri (puppet theater) and Kabuki plays. The earliest recorded version of the story is Banshu Sarayashiki, written for the puppet theater in the early 18th century. Later, a Tokyo-based version called Bancho Sarayashiki moved the setting to Edo (modern-day Tokyo), proving the story’s flexibility and widespread appeal.
Unlike the ancient myths found in the Kojiki, which detail the origins of gods and the archipelago, Okiku’s story is a kaidan—a ghost story rooted in human emotion, social hierarchy, and the Buddhist concept of attachment to the living world.
Okiku in Modern Culture
The image of the yurei—a pale woman in a white burial kimono with long, unkempt black hair covering her face—was largely cemented by characters like Okiku.
The Ring and J-Horror
Okiku’s influence on modern pop culture is undeniable. The most famous example is the character Sadako Yamamura from the horror franchise The Ring (Ringu). Sadako’s backstory involves being thrown into a well, and her visual design is a direct homage to the classic depiction of Okiku. The trope of the “vengeful spirit in the well” has become a staple of J-Horror, transcending borders to terrify global audiences.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Okiku’s Well
If you are planning a trip to the Kansai region, visiting the site of this legend is a must for folklore enthusiasts.
Location
Okiku’s Well (Okiku-ido) is located within the grounds of Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture. Himeji Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site and arguably Japan’s finest surviving feudal castle.
How to Find It
The well is situated in the Bizen-maru bailey, near the main keep. It is surrounded by a stone rim and covered with a wire mesh to ensure safety. While you cannot see the bottom, peering into the dark abyss evokes a distinct sense of unease.
Best Time to Visit
- Summer (August): In Japan, summer is the season of ghost stories (intended to give you a “chill” to beat the heat). Visiting during the Obon season adds a spiritual weight to the experience.
- Early Morning: To avoid the massive crowds that flock to the castle, arrive right when the gates open (usually 9:00 AM). This allows for a quiet moment at the well to contemplate the tragedy.
Note: While it is a tourist attraction, it is also considered a site of death in folklore. It is customary to be respectful; loud noises or joking around the well is frowned upon by locals who still hold a superstitious respect for the spirit.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into Japanese mythology and the context of kaidan, the following resources are recommended:
- Banshu Sarayashiki: Various translations of the Kabuki and Bunraku plays are available for those interested in the dramatic retelling of the legend.
- Tales of Moonlight and Rain (Ugetsu Monogatari): While not featuring Okiku specifically, this 18th-century collection by Ueda Akinari is essential for understanding the atmosphere of Edo-period ghost stories.
- Nihon Shoki & Kojiki: While these ancient texts focus on Shinto deities rather than Edo ghosts, they provide the foundational understanding of the Japanese spiritual worldview regarding the afterlife (Yomi).
From the stage of Kabuki to the screens of Hollywood, the Spirit of Okiku continues to count her plates, reminding us that injustice, even in death, is never forgotten.