Sarayashiki: The Tragic Ghost Tale of Okiku’s Well
In the sweltering heat of a Japanese summer, a chill runs down the spine of those who listen to kaidan—traditional ghost stories. Among the pantheon of vengeful spirits and supernatural occurrences, few tales are as pervasive or as heart-wrenching as the story of Sarayashiki (The Mansion of the Plates). It is a narrative of betrayal, tragedy, and a haunting that echoes from the bottom of a dark well.
While Western horror often relies on jump scares, Japanese horror thrives on deep-seated psychological dread and the sorrow of the Onryo—the vengeful spirit. Sarayashiki serves as a prime example of this genre, centering on the mournful figure of Okiku, a servant girl whose voice can still be heard counting plates in the dead of night.
The Origins of the Tale
Sarayashiki is not a singular story but a folklore complex that evolved significantly during the Edo period (1603–1867). It became a staple of Japan’s dramatic arts, featuring prominently in Ningyo Joruri (puppet theater) and Kabuki.
There are several regional variations of the legend, but the two most prominent are Bancho Sarayashiki, set in Edo (modern-day Tokyo), and Banshu Sarayashiki, set in Himeji Castle. While the locations differ, the core elements remain the same: a valuable set of ten plates, a cruel master, a helpless servant, and a death by drowning in a well. The story gained massive popularity in the 18th century, with playwrights adapting the oral tradition into scripts that emphasized the tragic fate of the lower class at the hands of the samurai elite.
The Legend of Okiku
Though details shift between plays, the quintessential version of the legend unfolds as follows:
The Broken Plate
Okiku was a beautiful maidservant working in the household of a high-ranking samurai, often named Aoyama Tessan. The family possessed a treasured heirloom: a set of ten precious delftware plates imported from the Dutch or China.
In some versions, Aoyama lusts after Okiku, and when she rejects his advances, he hides one of the plates to frame her. In others, the plate is genuinely broken or lost by accident. Regardless of the cause, Okiku is blamed for the loss of the tenth plate. The punishment for such an offense was severe. Aoyama offered her a choice: become his mistress to pay off the debt, or face death.
The Haunting
Refusing to compromise her honor, Okiku was tortured and eventually killed. Her body was unceremoniously dumped into the garden well.
Shortly after her death, the household was plagued by a terrifying phenomenon. Every night, a ghostly voice would rise from the depths of the well, counting: “One… two… three… four… five… six… seven… eight… nine…”
Upon reaching nine, the spirit would let out a blood-curdling shriek, agonizing over the missing tenth plate, before sobbing uncontrollably. The torment drove Aoyama to madness, eventually leading to the ruin of his house.
Modern Culture and Legacy
The image of Okiku has fundamentally shaped the aesthetic of the Japanese female ghost. With her long, unkempt black hair, white burial kimono, and association with water and wells, she is the direct ancestor of modern horror icons.
The most famous derivative is undoubtedly Sadako from Koji Suzuki’s novel Ring (and its film adaptation Ringu). Sadako’s emergence from a well and her vengeful nature are direct homages to the Sarayashiki legend. Furthermore, the story appears frequently in anime, manga, and video games, often referenced when a character is seen counting objects in a spooky manner.
Traveler’s Tips
For travelers interested in Japanese folklore, the legend of Sarayashiki is not just a story—it is a destination. There are two primary locations where you can pay your respects to Okiku.
Himeji Castle (Hyogo Prefecture)
At the foot of the magnificent Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site, lies Okiku’s Well. This is the setting for the Banshu version of the tale. The well is covered with wire mesh today, but peering into its dark depths creates an eerie atmosphere, especially on overcast days. It is a popular spot for visitors to reflect on the tragic history intertwined with the castle’s beauty.
Tokyo Sites
In Tokyo, the legacy of the Bancho version lives on. While the original mansion is long gone, there are shrines and monuments dedicated to Okiku in the Chiyoda ward. Visiting these urban sites offers a fascinating contrast between the bustle of modern Tokyo and the lingering whispers of the Edo period.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the depth of Japanese folklore, one must look at both theatrical history and ancient beliefs.
- Okamoto Kido: His 1916 play Bancho Sarayashiki provides a modernized, psychological twist on the classic tale that is widely read today.
- Ancient Chronicles: While Sarayashiki is an Edo-period tale, the concept of the Onryo (vengeful spirit) is deeply rooted in Japan’s oldest histories. Texts like the Kojiki (712 AD) and the Nihon Shoki (720 AD) detail the foundational myths where spirits and gods interact with the living, establishing the spiritual framework that allows legends like Okiku’s to flourish.
- Hearn, Lafcadio: For English readers, Hearn’s collections of Kwaidan offer essential translations and interpretations of these ghostly legends.