Japan’s Plague Myths: Ancient Gods and Healing Rites
When travelers visit Japan today, they are often struck by the impeccable hygiene and advanced medical systems. However, beneath the surface of this ultra-modern society lies a deep spiritual history dedicated to battling the invisible forces of disease. Long before the germ theory of disease existed, the Japanese people navigated the terrors of epidemics through a complex tapestry of mythology, rituals, and the appeasement of powerful deities.
For the cultural traveler, understanding these ancient “Plague Outbreak Myths” offers a fascinating lens through which to view some of Japan’s most famous festivals and shrine traditions. These are not merely colorful parades; they are living enactments of ancient survival strategies against the unseen.
The Origins: When Gods Brought Fever
In ancient Japan, sickness was rarely seen as a biological event. Instead, epidemics—particularly smallpox, dysentery, and measles—were interpreted as the work of Ekijin (pestilence spirits) or Onryo (vengeful ghosts). The logic was spiritual: if a powerful person died unjustly or if the gods were neglected, their wrath would manifest as a plague upon the land.
This belief system, known as Goryo Shinko, flourished during the Heian period (794–1185). The capital, Kyoto, was frequently ravaged by floods and subsequent outbreaks. To the ancient mind, these were not coincidences but divine punishments. The solution was not to fight the spirits, but to pacify and worship them. By treating the disease-causing entity as a god, the people hoped to transform a curse into protection.
The Legend of Somin Shorai
At the heart of Japanese plague mythology lies the enduring legend of Somin Shorai, a story recorded in the Bingo no Kuni Fudoki (an ancient provincial record).
According to the legend, a powerful deity named Mutō-no-Kami (often identified with the Shinto storm god Susanoo-no-Mikoto or the syncretic deity Gozu Tennō) was traveling disguised as a human. As night fell, he sought lodging in a village.
The Tale of Two Brothers
The deity first approached the home of Kotan Shorai, the wealthy younger brother. Despite his riches, Kotan was stingy and refused to open his door to the ragged traveler. The deity then went to the house of the older brother, Somin Shorai. Somin was incredibly poor, but he welcomed the stranger, offering him a millet meal and a place to sleep.
Years later, the deity returned to reveal his true divine nature. As a reward for Somin’s kindness, the god instructed Somin’s family to wear a ring of woven茅 (chinogaya) grass around their waists. Shortly after, a terrible plague swept through the land, wiping out the wealthy brother’s household and the rest of the village. Only Somin Shorai and his family, protected by the grass rings, survived.
The deity declared, “If epidemics arise in future generations, say you are the descendants of Somin Shorai and wear a grass ring, and you shall be saved.”
Modern Culture: From Myths to Festivals
This ancient myth is not a dead relic; it is the structural backbone of some of Japan’s most vibrant cultural events.
The Gion Festival (Gion Matsuri)
Perhaps the most famous example is Kyoto’s Gion Festival. While millions of tourists flock to see the magnificent floats (Yamaboko) every July, few realize the festival began in the year 869 as a religious ritual called the Gion Goryo-e. During a devastating plague, the Emperor ordered the erection of 66 halberds to appease Gozu Tennō, the deity of the Yasaka Shrine, to halt the epidemic.
Chinowa Kuguri
If you visit a Shinto shrine in late June, you will likely see a massive ring made of straw standing in the entryway. This is the Chinowa. Derived directly from the Somin Shorai legend, worshippers walk through this ring in a figure-eight pattern to purify themselves of sins and protect against summer illnesses. It is a physical interaction with a myth that is over a thousand years old.
The Return of Amabie
More recently, during the global pandemic of the 2020s, a lesser-known mythological figure resurfaced: Amabie. A yokai (spirit) from the Edo period, Amabie was said to emerge from the sea to predict harvests and epidemics. Legend held that showing a drawing of Amabie to the sick would cure them. In modern Japan, Amabie became a pop-culture icon, appearing on everything from government safety posters to candy wrappers, proving that these myths still hold comfort for the modern psyche.
Traveler’s Tips: experiencing the History
To truly connect with this aspect of Japanese culture, consider the following itinerary additions:
- Visit Yasaka Shrine (Kyoto): The spiritual home of the Gion Festival. Look for charms (omamori) related to health and warding off disease.
- Participate in Nagoshi no Harae: Visit a major shrine (like Meiji Jingu in Tokyo or Fushimi Inari in Kyoto) on June 30th to walk through the Chinowa grass ring.
- Look for the talisman: In the Kyoto area, you may see wooden talismans hanging on house entrances that read “Descendants of Somin Shorai” (Somin Shorai no Shison). This is the ancient password for protection against plague spirits.
Sources & Further Reading
- Bingo no Kuni Fudoki: For the original text regarding the legend of Somin Shorai.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For broader context on Susanoo-no-Mikoto and ancient rituals.
- Kyoto Gion Festival Archives: For historical records regarding the Goryo-e rituals of 869 AD.