The Rashomon Legend: Demons at Kyoto’s Ancient Gate
When travelers imagine Kyoto, they often picture the golden pavilion of Kinkaku-ji or the vermilion torii gates of Fushimi Inari. However, hidden within the city’s urban sprawl lies the ghost of a darker past. The Rashomon (or Rajomon) Gate was once the grand entrance to the imperial capital, but it is best known today not for its architecture, but for the chilling legends of demons, decay, and samurai bravery that surround it.
For culture enthusiasts and literary fans alike, the Rashomon legend offers a fascinating glimpse into the psychological and supernatural underbelly of Heian-period Japan.
Origins: The Gate of Heian-Kyo
Built in the late 8th century (789 AD), the Rashomon was the monumental southern gate of Heian-kyo (modern-day Kyoto). It stood at the end of Suzaku Avenue, the central thoroughfare leading directly to the Imperial Palace. At nearly 25 meters wide and topped with a massive hip-and-gable roof, it was designed to impress visitors with the might of the Emperor.
However, by the 12th century, the Heian period was in decline. The capital was ravaged by famine, earthquakes, and civil war. The once-majestic Rashomon fell into disrepair. No longer a symbol of imperial power, it became a shelter for thieves, abandoned children, and discarded corpses. This atmosphere of desolation created the perfect breeding ground for folklore. The gate became known as a liminal space where the human world and the demon world intersected.
The Legend of the Demon’s Arm
While Ryunosuke Akutagawa’s famous short story focuses on human morality, the oldest and most enduring folklore associated with the gate is the tale of the samurai Watanabe no Tsuna and the demon Ibaraki-doji.
According to the Heike Monogatari and generic folklore, a fearsome oni (demon) was haunting the Rashomon Gate, terrorizing anyone who tried to pass after sundown. Watanabe no Tsuna, a retainer of the legendary warrior Minamoto no Raiko, accepted a challenge to spend the night at the gate to prove his courage.
As the night deepened and a storm rolled in, Tsuna felt a heavy hand grab his helmet from above. It was Ibaraki-doji, the lieutenant of the demon king Shuten-doji. Reacting instantly, Tsuna drew his sword, Onikiri (Demon Slayer), and severed the demon’s arm in a single strike. The demon shrieked and fled into the dark clouds, leaving the massive, hairy arm behind.
The legend continues with the demon later returning in the disguise of Tsuna’s elderly aunt to retrieve the arm, adding layers of shapeshifting horror to the tale. This story cemented Rashomon’s reputation as a haunted locale in the Japanese consciousness.
Modern Culture and the “Rashomon Effect”
In the 20th century, the legend of the gate was immortalized—and transformed—by literature and cinema. Ryunosuke Akutagawa used the dilapidated gate as the setting for his 1915 short story Rashomon. However, Akutagawa stripped away the samurai and demons, replacing them with a starving servant and an old woman stealing hair from corpses to make wigs. His story focused on the horrors of human survival rather than supernatural battles.
Later, filmmaker Akira Kurosawa combined the setting of Akutagawa’s Rashomon with the plot of another Akutagawa story, In a Grove, to create the 1950 masterpiece Rashomon. The film introduced the world to the “Rashomon Effect”—the concept that truth is subjective and unreliable. While the term is modern, it fits the ancient gate perfectly: a place where reality blurs, and darkness hides the truth.
Traveler’s Tips: Finding the Lost Gate
For travelers hoping to see the massive structure, there is a catch: the gate no longer exists. It collapsed in 980 AD and was never rebuilt. However, you can still visit the site to pay homage to the legend.
1. The Stone Marker A simple stone monument marks the spot where the gate once stood. It is located in a small playground in Minami-ku, Kyoto, just a short walk from Toji Temple. While physically underwhelming, standing there allows you to visualize the massive avenue that once ran through the quiet neighborhood.
2. Toji Temple Located nearby, Toji Temple provides the best context for the scale of the original gate. Toji was established at the same time as Rashomon to protect the capital. Its five-story pagoda gives you a sense of the architectural grandeur of the Heian period.
3. Noh and Kabuki If you want to see the legend of Watanabe no Tsuna come alive, check the schedules for the Kyoto Kanze Noh Theater or Minamiza Kabuki Theatre. The play Ibaraki is a classic performance depicting the fight at the gate and the demon’s return.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the Rashomon legend and Heian-era folklore, consider exploring these texts:
- Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past): A collection of late Heian period stories that details the supernatural occurrences at the gate.
- The Tale of the Heike (Heike Monogatari): Contains references to the swords and samurai lineages involved in the demon legends.
- Rashomon and Seventeen Other Stories by Ryunosuke Akutagawa: Essential reading to understand the modern literary interpretation of the site.