Unveiling the Mysteries of Koshi no Kuni: Ancient Legends of Japan
When travelers imagine ancient Japan, their minds often wander to the imperial courts of Kyoto or the samurai history of Edo. However, looking at the map of Japan, there is a region facing the turbulent Sea of Japan that holds a history just as deep, yet far more mysterious. This is the ancient province of Koshi no Kuni (高志国 or 越国). Known today as the Hokuriku and Niigata regions, this land was once a powerful, independent cultural sphere teeming with myths, jade, and divine romances.
Origins: The Land Beyond the Mountains
To the people of the ancient Yamato court (central Japan), the lands to the north, separated by the formidable Japanese Alps, were a world apart. In the oldest historical records, this region was referred to as Koshi. While the Kanji character eventually evolved to 越 (Koshi), the earliest texts, including the Man’yoshu poetry anthology, often utilized the characters 高志 (Koshi), which can be interpreted as “High Aspirations.”
Geographically, Koshi no Kuni was immense. It spanned what are now Fukui, Ishikawa, Toyama, and Niigata prefectures. Unlike the agrarian society of the Pacific side, the Koshi region was defined by its relationship with the sea and, crucially, its geology. This was the heart of Japan’s jade culture. Archaeological evidence suggests that Koshi was a thriving trade hub long before the unification of Japan, trading precious jade beads with regions as far away as the Korean peninsula and northern Hokkaido.
The Legend: A Divine Romance
The most enduring legend of Koshi revolves around the meeting of two great powers, symbolized through a divine marriage. It is the story of Princess Nunakawa (Nunakawa-hime) and the deity Okuninushi (the Great Land Master), the central god of the Izumo region.
The Jade Princess
According to the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters), Okuninushi, seeking a wife worthy of his stature, heard whispers of a remarkably wise and beautiful goddess ruling over the land of Koshi. This was Princess Nunakawa. She is widely believed to be the spiritual guardian of the region’s jade, embodying the mystic power of the stone found in the Itoigawa River.
The Divine Wooing
The legend describes Okuninushi traveling all the way from Izumo (modern-day Shimane) to Koshi to woo her. He stood outside her palace and sang poetic songs declaring his love, refusing to leave until she acknowledged him. The Kojiki records their exchange of poetry—a dialogue of courtship that represents not just romance, but the political alliance between the powerful Izumo confederacy and the jade-rich kingdom of Koshi.
Their union produced a child, Takeminakata, a god known for his immense physical strength. When the Yamato gods later came to claim the land, Takeminakata fled to Suwa, becoming the principal deity of the famous Suwa Grand Shrine. Thus, the bloodline of Koshi’s legendary princess is still worshipped in one of Japan’s most significant spiritual sites.
Modern Culture: Echoes in the Jade Coast
Today, the legend of Koshi is not merely a dusty story in a history book; it is the cultural identity of the region, particularly in Itoigawa, Niigata.
The Stone of Spirits
In 2016, Jade (Hisui) was declared the national stone of Japan, a decision heavily influenced by the heritage of the Koshi region. The “Jade Coast” in Itoigawa is one of the few places in the world where travelers can still find raw jade washed up on the pebbled beaches. Local artisans continue to craft magatama (comma-shaped beads) similar to those worn by Princess Nunakawa, keeping the ancient aesthetic alive.
Festivals and Worship
Princess Nunakawa is enshrined at the Nunakawa Shrine in Itoigawa. Locals revere her not only as a figure of myth but as a guardian of safe childbirth and wisdom. Throughout the Hokuriku region, the resilience required to survive the harsh, snowy winters is often attributed to the “Koshi spirit”—a distinct cultural pride that separates them from the capital dwellers of Tokyo or Kyoto.
Traveler’s Tips
If you wish to walk in the footsteps of the gods of Koshi, here is how to navigate this historic region:
- Visit the Fossa Magna Museum: Located in Itoigawa, this museum offers context on how the unique geology of the region created the jade that fueled the ancient Kingdom of Koshi.
- Hunt for Jade: Visit the Hisui Kaigan (Jade Coast). While finding gem-quality stones is rare, sifting through the pebbles by the roaring Sea of Japan is a meditative experience that connects you to the ancients.
- Pay Respects: Visit Nunakawa Shrine in Itoigawa to see where the princess is worshipped. If you are interested in the conclusion of the lineage, a trip to Suwa Taisha in Nagano (where her son is enshrined) makes for a perfect extended itinerary.
- Best Time to Visit: Late spring (May) or Autumn (October). The winters in the ancient lands of Koshi are severe, with deep snows that, while beautiful, can make travel difficult.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the primary texts regarding Koshi no Kuni and Princess Nunakawa, the following historical records are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Compiled in 712 AD, this text contains the poetic exchange between Okuninushi and Princess Nunakawa.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Compiled in 720 AD, offering a slightly different historical perspective on the region’s integration into the Yamato state.
- The Man’yoshu: Japan’s oldest collection of poetry, which contains references to the geography and distinct nature of the “Land of Koshi.”