The Hii River: A Journey into Japan’s Dragon Slayer Myth
Japan is a land deeply intertwined with its mythology, but few places feel as charged with ancient energy as the Hii River in Shimane Prefecture. Flowing through the historic Izumo region—often called the “Land of the Gods”—this river is more than a geographical feature; it is the setting for one of Shinto’s most pivotal legends. For travelers seeking the spiritual heart of Japan, following the serpentine flow of the Hii River offers a direct path into the age of gods.
Origins: Iron, Floods, and Metaphors
To understand the myth, one must first understand the landscape. The Hii River (Hii-kawa) originates in the Chugoku Mountains and winds its way to Lake Shinji. Historically, this river was notorious for its violent, unpredictable flooding.
Scholars and historians believe the mythology born here is a poetic interpretation of the region’s geography and industry. The area is famous for Tatara ironmaking, a traditional method of smelting iron sand found in the riverbed. When the iron sand was harvested, the runoff would turn the river a deep, rusty red. To the ancient people of Izumo, a flooding red river twisting through the valley looked unmistakably like a giant, bleeding serpent.
This fusion of natural disaster and early industrialization laid the groundwork for the terrifying antagonist of the region’s defining legend: Yamata no Orochi.
The Legend of Susanoo and the Eight-Headed Dragon
The story begins with Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the Shinto storm god and brother to the sun goddess Amaterasu. After being banished from the heavens for his mischievous behavior, Susanoo descended to the earthly realm, landing at the headwaters of the Hii River.
While wandering, he encountered an elderly couple weeping beside their beautiful daughter, Princess Kushinada. When Susanoo asked why they cried, they explained that for seven years, a monstrous serpent named Yamata no Orochi had come to devour one of their daughters. Now, it was time for the eighth and final daughter, Kushinada, to be sacrificed.
The beast was described as having eight heads and eight tails, with eyes as red as winter cherries, and a body large enough to span eight valleys and eight peaks. Susanoo struck a deal: he would slay the beast if he could have Kushinada’s hand in marriage.
The Divine Strategy
Susanoo did not rely on brute strength alone. He instructed the couple to brew strong sake (rice wine) refined eight times. He then built a fence with eight gates, placing a vat of this potent sake at each gate. When Yamata no Orochi arrived, attracted by the scent of the liquor, it dipped each of its eight heads into the vats and drank greedily.
The dragon fell into a drunken stupor. Seizing the moment, Susanoo drew his sword and chopped the beast into pieces. The river turned red with the dragon’s blood. As he cut through the fourth tail, his blade hit something hard. slicing open the flesh, he discovered the Ame-no-Murakumo-no-Tsurugi (later known as the Kusanagi sword), which became one of the three Imperial Regalia of Japan.
Modern Culture: The Dragon Lives On
Today, the legacy of the Hii River myth permeates the culture of the Shimane and Hiroshima regions. The battle is the most popular repertoire in Iwami Kagura, a traditional Shinto theatrical dance. Performers wearing elaborate, heavy costumes and expressionistic masks reenact the battle to the thunderous beat of taiko drums. The “Orochi” giant snake costume, often stretching over 15 meters and manipulating smoke works, is a spectacle of folk art.
The myth has also bled into global pop culture. Yamata no Orochi appears as a boss or summon in countless video games (such as Okami and Final Fantasy) and anime series (Naruto), keeping the ancient Izumo legend alive for a digital generation.
Traveler’s Tips: Exploring the Mythical Landscape
For those visiting the Hii River area, the myth is mapped out across the landscape. Here is how to experience it:
- Okuizumo: Visit the source of the legend. This rural area offers a look at the Tatara ironmaking history that inspired the dragon.
- Suga Shrine: Located in Unnan City, this shrine is said to be the location where Susanoo built a palace for his new bride, Kushinada, after the battle. It is considered the birthplace of Waka poetry.
- Cherry Blossoms at Kisuki: In spring, the banks of the Hii River in Kisuki-cho boast one of Japan’s top 100 cherry blossom spots. The tunnel of pink flowers creates a peaceful contrast to the river’s violent mythological past.
- Local Sake: Since sake was the weapon that defeated the dragon, be sure to sample the local nihonshu. Shimane is considered the birthplace of sake in Japan.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): The oldest extant chronicle in Japan (712 AD), detailing the age of the gods.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, providing a slightly different historical perspective on the Susanoo myth.
- Lafcadio Hearn: For English-speaking audiences, Hearn’s writings on Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan provide excellent context on Izumo’s spiritual atmosphere.