The Mystery of the Miwa Deity: Journey to Japan’s Oldest Shrine
Deep in the heart of Nara Prefecture, a region that predates Kyoto as the cradle of Japanese civilization, lies a spiritual site unlike any other. While Japan is dotted with thousands of Shinto shrines, few possess the primal, ancient gravity of Omiwa Shrine (Omiwa Jinja). Here, there is no main hall to house the god. Instead, the deity is the mountain itself.
Known as Miwa Myojin (The Miwa Deity) or formally as Omononushi-no-Kami, this powerful spirit represents the very roots of Japanese animism. For cultural travelers and history buffs, visiting the home of the Miwa Deity offers a profound glimpse into the era before Buddhism arrived in Japan, a time when the gods dwelled in the trees, rocks, and peaks.
Origins: The Mountain is the Body
Omiwa Shrine is widely considered one of the oldest, if not the oldest, existing Shinto shrines in Japan. Its history stretches back into the misty realms of mythology, long before written records began.
What makes the worship of the Miwa Deity unique is the preservation of the ancient style of Shinto known as Ko-Shinto. In most shrines, visitors pray toward a honden (main hall) where the deity is enshrined. However, at Omiwa, there is no honden. Visitors pray through a haiden (worship hall) directly toward Mount Miwa.
The mountain itself is the shintaizan—the divine body of the god. It is a striking example of nature worship, suggesting that the deity Omononushi is not just a figure residing in the mountain, but is the mountain’s very essence. Omononushi is often identified as the “Great Land Master,” a benevolent yet powerful spirit associated with nation-building, agriculture, and healing.
Legend: The Red Thread and the Snake
The lore surrounding the Miwa Deity is captured in Japan’s oldest historical chronicles, the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan). One of the most famous legends explains the name “Miwa” and the deity’s true form.
According to the tale, a beautiful young woman named Ikutamayori-bime was visited nightly by a handsome nobleman. She fell in love and became pregnant, but she never knew his true identity as he would leave before dawn. Desperate to know who he was, she acted on her parents’ advice: she attached a long spool of hemp thread to the hem of his garment.
The next morning, she followed the thread. It led her out of her home and all the way to the shrine at Mount Miwa. Looking at her spool, she saw that only “three loops” (mi-wa) of thread remained. Thus, the place was named Miwa. It was revealed that her lover was the deity Omononushi himself. Furthermore, in many depictions, Omononushi is associated with a white snake. Because of this, eggs and sake are often left as offerings at the shrine to appease the snake deity.
Modern Culture: The God of Sake
Today, the Miwa Deity holds a prestigious position in modern Japanese culture, particularly within the brewing industry. Omononushi is revered as the guardian deity of sake brewers.
If you travel through Japan, you may notice large balls made of cedar branches hanging under the eaves of sake breweries. These are called sugidama (cedar balls). This tradition originates from Omiwa Shrine. Every year, fresh cedar branches from the sacred Mount Miwa are harvested to make a new sugidama, which is then hung to signal the start of the new brewing season. The ball turns from green to brown over time, indicating the maturation of the sake.
Beyond alcohol, the deity is also worshiped for healing and medicine, drawing countless pilgrims seeking cures for ailments or protection from bad luck.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting the domain of the Miwa Deity requires respect and adherence to tradition. Here is how to make the most of your visit to Sakurai, Nara:
1. The Atmosphere
As you walk through the massive torii gate and enter the forest, the air changes. The ancient cedar trees create a solemn, hushed atmosphere. Take your time walking the approach; it is a meditative experience.
2. Climbing Mount Miwa
Unlike many other mountains in Japan, Mount Miwa is not a hiking spot; it is a place of ascetic pilgrimage. To climb it, you must register at the Sai Shrine (a subsidiary shrine), wear a white sash (tasuki), and undergo self-purification.
- Strict Rules: Photography is strictly prohibited on the mountain. You cannot eat, drink (except water), or smoke. You must not take anything from the mountain, not even a fallen leaf.
- Note: The climb is steep and takes 2-3 hours round trip. It is often closed during bad weather or specific rituals.
3. Culinary Specialty: Miwa Somen
The region is famous for Miwa Somen, extremely thin, hand-stretched wheat noodles. After your shrine visit, stop by a local restaurant to enjoy these delicate noodles, served cold in summer or in warm broth during winter. They are considered some of the best in Japan.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the mythology of the Miwa Deity, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Look for the chapters detailing the age of the gods and the lineage of the Yamato rulers.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides alternative versions of the myths concerning Omononushi.
- Official Omiwa Shrine Literature: Available on-site (some in English) detailing the specific rituals of the Himukai (Sun worship) ancient traditions.