Omononushi: The Ancient Snake God of Mount Miwa
Deep within the verdant forests of Nara Prefecture, preceding the grand temples of Kyoto and the bustle of Tokyo, lies the spiritual heart of ancient Japan. Here, the mountain itself is a god. At the center of this animistic worship is Omononushi-no-Kami (大物主大神), a deity as complex as he is powerful. Often depicted in the form of a snake and revered as the guardian of nation-building, agriculture, and medicine, Omononushi offers travelers a glimpse into the primordial roots of Shinto.
For cultural explorers and spiritual seekers, understanding Omononushi is key to unlocking the mysteries of Omiwa Shrine and the sacred Mount Miwa.
The Origins of the Great Master of Things
The name Omononushi roughly translates to “Great Master of Things” or “Great Ruler of Spirits.” His identity is deeply intertwined with another major Shinto figure: Okuninushi, the “Great Land Master” of Izumo. According to ancient theology, Omononushi is the sakimitama (spirit of blessing) and kushimitama (spirit of the miraculous) of Okuninushi.
In simpler terms, while Okuninushi represents the deity in body, Omononushi represents his functioning spirit or soul. This duality highlights a fascinating aspect of Shinto belief where a god’s spirit can reside separately from their form.
Omononushi resides in Mount Miwa itself. Unlike most shrines that house a man-made sacred object (mirror or sword) within a main hall, Omiwa Shrine has no main hall (honden). Instead, worshipers pray directly to the mountain through a triple torii gate, preserving one of the oldest styles of Shinto worship in existence.
Legends of the Snake God
Omononushi is famously associated with serpents, a symbol of fertility and water in Japanese folklore. The most enduring legend regarding this deity is found in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan).
The Tale of the Red Cord
The legend tells of a beautiful maiden named Ikutamayori-bime. Every night, a handsome, mysterious man would visit her, and the two fell deeply in love. Before long, she discovered she was pregnant. Her parents, suspicious of a lover who only appeared in the darkness and vanished before dawn, devised a plan to discover his identity.
They instructed their daughter to pin a needle with a long spool of red hemp thread to the hem of her lover’s robe. When the sun rose, the man was gone, but the thread remained. Following the red cord, they traced it out of the house, across the land, and finally to the shrine at Mount Miwa. The thread went straight into the mountain, revealing that her lover was none other than the god Omononushi.
This story cemented his reputation as a god of marriage and fertility, but also solidified his avatar as the serpent, a creature that moves silently and disappears into the earth.
Modern Culture and the God of Sake
While Omononushi is an ancient deity, his influence is visible in modern Japanese culture, particularly in the culinary world. He is revered as the guardian deity of sake brewing.
If you have ever visited a traditional Japanese brewery or an izakaya, you may have noticed a large ball made of cedar branches hanging under the eaves. This is called a sugidama (cedar ball). The cedar is sacred to Mount Miwa, and these balls are traditionally made from the trees of the mountain.
Every year, brewers from across Japan converge on Omiwa Shrine to receive blessing for their upcoming batches. When fresh sake is pressed, a green sugidama is hung; as the ball turns brown, it signals to customers that the sake has matured.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Omononushi
To pay your respects to Omononushi, you must head to the Sakurai area in Nara Prefecture. Here is how to experience this sacred site respectfully.
1. Omiwa Shrine
Start at Omiwa Shrine. It is said to be one of the oldest existing shrines in Japan. Walk through the heavy forests and observe the worshippers offering eggs and sake—favorite offerings for the snake god.
2. Climbing Mount Miwa
Unlike many other mountains in Japan that serve as hiking spots, Mount Miwa is strictly religious ground. It is the body of Omononushi.
- Registration: You must register at Sai Shrine (a sub-shrine) and pay a small fee.
- Attire: You will be given a white sash (tasuki) to wear.
- Rules: Photography is strictly prohibited on the mountain. Eating and drinking (other than water) are forbidden. You must not take anything from the mountain—not a rock, not a leaf.
- Atmosphere: It is a silent, meditative ascent. Many locals climb barefoot to connect directly with the deity.
3. Eat Miwa Somen
After your descent, enjoy the local specialty: Miwa Somen. These comprise extremely thin, hand-stretched noodles served in a light broth. The pure water of the region, blessed by Omononushi, is said to be the secret to their taste.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the textual history of Omononushi, the following classical texts provide the primary accounts:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi. Look for sections detailing the cycle of Okuninushi and the lineage of the Miwa clan.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Translated by W.G. Aston. Contains variations of the snake legends and the theological links to the Imperial court.
- Nara Prefecture Official Tourism Guide: For current access information to Omiwa Shrine.