Omiwa Shrine: A Journey to the Roots of Japanese Spirituality
Deep in the heart of Nara Prefecture, nestled at the foot of a lush, conical peak, lies a spiritual site that predates the concept of shrine architecture itself. Omiwa Shrine (Omiwa-jinja) is widely acknowledged as the oldest Shinto shrine in Japan. Unlike the grandeur of Kyoto’s pavilions or the vermilion gates of Fushimi Inari, Omiwa offers a profound, primal connection to nature. Here, there is no main hall to house the deity; the mountain itself is the god.
For travelers seeking to understand the origins of Japanese faith, a pilgrimage to Omiwa Shrine in Sakurai City is an essential, transformative experience.
Origins: Worshiping the Mountain Itself
To understand Omiwa Shrine, one must look back to the dawn of Japanese history, a time referred to as the Kofun period or even earlier. The shrine practices a form of worship known as Ko-Shinto (Old Shinto) or animism, where the divine is perceived directly in nature.
The unique characteristic of Omiwa Shrine is the absence of a Honden (main sanctuary) where a deity would typically reside. Instead, worshippers pray through a Haiden (worship hall) directly toward Mount Miwa, the holy mountain looming behind it. This preserves the ancient style of Shinto worship where mountains, known as kannabi, were revered as the physical bodies of the gods.
Separating the worship hall from the sacred forest is a unique Mitsu-torii (Triple Torii Gate), a rare architectural mystery that is usually closed to the public, adding to the site’s enigmatic aura.
Legend: The Red Thread and the Snake God
The primary deity worshipped here is Omononushi-no-Okami, often associated with the great god Okuninushi. The mythology surrounding Omononushi is rich with romance and mysticism, recorded in Japan’s oldest chronicles.
The Tale of the Red Thread
According to legend, a beautiful maiden named Ikutamayori-bime was visited nightly by a handsome young man. When she became pregnant, her parents demanded to know who her husband was. To discover his identity, she attached a hemp thread to the hem of his robe. The next morning, she followed the thread, which led her all the way to Mount Miwa. The thread had passed through the keyhole of the shrine, revealing that her lover was the deity of the mountain himself.
Because the remaining thread was wound three times (mi-wa) on a spool, the area became known as Miwa.
The Snake Connection
Omononushi is frequently depicted as a snake. Consequently, snakes are considered sacred messengers at Omiwa. It is common to see offerings of eggs and sake placed around the shrine grounds, particularly near the “One-Log Torii,” to appease the snake deity. The sighting of a snake here is considered a sign of tremendous good fortune.
Modern Culture: The God of Sake and Medicine
While Omiwa is ancient, its influence on modern Japanese culture remains vibrant, particularly in the brewing industry.
The Birthplace of Sake
Omononushi is revered as the guardian deity of sake brewing. Japanese brewers from across the country visit Omiwa to pray for a successful fermentation season. If you look under the eaves of traditional sake breweries anywhere in Japan, you will often see a large ball made of cedar branches, known as a sugidama. These balls originated at Omiwa Shrine, made from the sacred cedars of Mount Miwa. A fresh green ball signals the start of the brewing season, and as it turns brown, it indicates the sake has matured.
Healing and Medicine
The shrine is also a destination for those seeking healing. The deity is closely linked to medicine, and many pharmaceutical companies and sick individuals come to offer prayers for health and recovery, particularly at the nearby Sai Shrine which marks the entrance to the mountain trail.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting and Hiking
Omiwa Shrine is located in Sakurai, Nara, and is easily accessible via the JR Sakurai Line (Miwa Station). The atmosphere is noticeably quieter and more solemn than the tourist-heavy spots in Nara City.
Climbing Mount Miwa
For the spiritually inclined, it is possible to climb Mount Miwa, but this is a pilgrimage, not a recreational hike.
- Registration: You must register at Sai Shrine (Sai-jinja) nearby and pay a small fee to receive a white sash (tasuki), which must be worn at all times.
- Purification: You must purify yourself with a paper wand (onusa) before entering.
- Strict Rules: Photography, eating, drinking (other than water), and smoking are strictly prohibited on the mountain. You must not take anything from the mountain, not even a fallen leaf or stone.
- Duration: The hike takes about 2 to 3 hours round trip. It is steep and requires moderate fitness.
Culinary Delight: Miwa Somen
After your visit, enjoy the local specialty, Miwa Somen. These are ultra-thin, hand-stretched wheat noodles served cold in summer or hot in winter (nyumen). The pristine water of the Mount Miwa area makes these noodles particularly delicate and delicious.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the textual history of Omiwa Shrine and the legends of Omononushi, the following historical texts provide the foundation of these stories:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters, 712 AD): Contains the mythology of the age of the gods, including the lineage of Omononushi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan, 720 AD): details the reign of Emperor Sujin and the worship of the deities of Mount Miwa to quell plagues.
Visiting Omiwa is a step back into the mists of time, offering a glimpse of the animistic roots that form the soul of Japanese culture.