The Trials of Okuninushi: From Underworld to Divinity
Deep in the heart of the San’in region of Japan lies the cradle of Shinto mythology. While many travelers know of Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, fewer are intimately familiar with the dramatic and romantic saga of Okuninushi no Mikoto. Known as the “Great Land Master,” Okuninushi is not just a deity; he is the protagonist of one of Japan’s earliest hero’s journeys.
His story is one of betrayal, magic, love, and deadly trials. Before he became the benevolent god of matchmaking enshrined at the grand Izumo Taisha, Okuninushi had to survive the lethal tests imposed by his storm-god ancestor, Susanoo. This legend offers a fascinating glimpse into the ancient Japanese worldview of the Underworld and the rites of kingship.
The Origins of the Earth Deity
The story of Okuninushi is primarily recorded in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters), compiled in 712 AD. He was a descendant of Susanoo, the wild storm god who had been banished from the High Plains of Heaven to the earth.
Okuninushi was the youngest of eighty brothers. These brothers were cruel and ambitious, constantly seeking to undermine him. The most famous prelude to his trials is the tale of the “White Hare of Inaba,” where Okuninushi’s kindness to a flayed rabbit earned him a prophecy that he—not his brothers—would marry the beautiful Princess Yagami. Enraged by jealousy, his brothers attempted to assassinate him multiple times, crushing him with boulders and burning him. To save his life, his mother sent him to the Land of Roots (Ne-no-Kuni), the realm of the Underworld ruled by Susanoo, to seek counsel and protection.
The Legend: Susanoo’s Deadly Tests
When Okuninushi arrived in the Underworld, he immediately encountered Suseri-hime, the daughter of Susanoo. They fell in love instantly, but Susanoo was not impressed by this soft-spoken intruder. To prove his worthiness as a ruler and a husband, Susanoo subjected Okuninushi to a series of harrowing trials.
The Chamber of Snakes
For the first night, Susanoo invited Okuninushi to sleep in a chamber filled with venomous snakes. Suseri-hime, fearing for her lover’s life, gave him a magical scarf. She instructed him to wave the scarf three times if the snakes approached. He did so, and the snakes were pacified, allowing him to sleep soundly.
The Room of Centipedes and Wasps
The following night, Susanoo placed him in a room buzzing with angry centipedes and wasps. Again, Suseri-hime provided a second magical scarf, which repelled the insects and saved his life. These items represent the magical talismans often found in shamanistic traditions, protecting the hero from the forces of nature.
The Humming Arrow and the Field of Fire
Determined to break him, Susanoo shot a humming arrow into a vast, dry moor and ordered Okuninushi to retrieve it. Once the young god entered the tall grass, Susanoo set the field ablaze. Trapped by a ring of fire, Okuninushi faced certain death.
Suddenly, a small mouse appeared and whispered a riddle: “The inside is hollow-hollow, the outside is narrow-narrow.”
Understanding the hint, Okuninushi stomped on the ground, falling into a hole the mouse had indicated. The fire raged over him, leaving him unharmed. The mouse even retrieved the arrow for him. When Okuninushi returned alive, Susanoo was shocked but began to see the resilience in the young god.
The Great Escape
The final trial was one of wits. Susanoo ordered Okuninushi to wash his hair. While the storm god slept, Okuninushi tied Susanoo’s long hair to the rafters of the palace. He then stole Susanoo’s great sword, bow, and zither (koto), and fled with Suseri-hime on his back.
As they ran, the zither brushed against a tree, making a sound that woke Susanoo. The storm god pulled the palace down around him due to his hair being tied to the rafters. By the time he freed himself, the couple was far away. Instead of pursuing, Susanoo shouted a final blessing from the border of the Underworld: “Use my sword and bow to defeat your brothers and become the Master of the Great Land!”
Modern Culture: The God of En-musubi
Today, Okuninushi is revered as the deity of En-musubi, or the tying of bonds. While this often refers to romantic matchmaking, it encompasses all relationships, including business connections and friendships. The trials he endured are seen as the necessary hardships that forged his character, making him a compassionate ruler capable of governing the “seen” and “unseen” worlds.
In pop culture and regional tourism, Okuninushi is often depicted with the White Hare or carrying a large bag of fortunes. His resilience is a celebrated trait in Japanese folklore, symbolizing that kindness and perseverance can overcome brute force.
Traveler’s Tips for Izumo
To pay respects to Okuninushi, travelers should head to Izumo Taisha in Shimane Prefecture, one of the oldest and most important shrines in Japan.
- The Month of the Gods: October in the lunar calendar is known as Kannazuki (Month of No Gods) everywhere in Japan except Izumo, where it is called Kamiarizuki (Month of the Presence of Gods). It is believed all the gods gather here annually to discuss the year’s destiny and matchmaking.
- Worship Etiquette: Unlike most shrines where you bow twice, clap twice, and bow once, at Izumo Taisha, the custom is two bows, four claps, and one bow. The four claps are said to represent the four seasons and invite happiness (shiawase).
- Shimenawa: Look for the massive sacred straw rope (shimenawa) at the Kaguraden hall; it is one of the largest in Japan and a stunning photo opportunity.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi. This is the primary source for the myths of Okuninushi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers alternative variations of the creation myths.
- Izumo Taisha Official Guide: Available at the shrine and local tourism boards in Shimane Prefecture.