Blood Pond Hell: A Journey to Beppu’s Chinoike Jigoku
Japan is a land synonymous with onsen (hot springs), offering rejuvenation and relaxation in mineral-rich waters. However, not all hot springs are meant for bathing. In the geothermal city of Beppu, located in Oita Prefecture on the island of Kyushu, there exists a collection of springs so hot and distinct in appearance that they are referred to as the “Seven Hells of Beppu” (Beppu Jigoku Meguri). Among these, the most visually arresting and historically significant is undoubtedly Chinoike Jigoku, or the “Blood Pond Hell.”
Steaming, bubbling, and dyed a violent shade of vermilion, Chinoike Jigoku offers a travel experience that bridges the gap between natural geological wonder and deep-seated cultural mythology.
The Origins of the Red Waters
Chinoike Jigoku is widely cited as the oldest “Hell” in Japan, with a history stretching back over 1,300 years. While the dramatic name suggests a site of carnage, the vivid red coloration is purely geological. The water, which bubbles at a scorching 78°C (172°F), is rich in iron oxide and magnesium oxide naturally occurring in the subterranean mud.
When the heated water rises through the fissures in the earth’s crust, it carries this red clay with it. As the steam clears, the surface of the pond resembles a vast cauldron of boiling blood. This unique chemical composition does more than just color the water; the red clay found here has been harvested for centuries to create dyes for clothing and wood preservatives, integrating the “hell” into the daily lives of the local people.
Legend and Mythology
To understand why a beautiful natural phenomenon is named “Hell,” one must look at the intersection of Buddhism and Japan’s harsh volcanic geography. In ancient times, areas with volcanic activity—barren lands where nothing could grow and boiling water surged from the ground—were considered physical manifestations of the Buddhist concept of hell.
The Buddhist Connection
Local folklore and ancient texts describe this area as a cursed place where people could not live. The steam and the red water invoked imagery of the suffering souls in the afterlife. Over time, statues of Jizo (the guardian deity of children and travelers) and demonic figures were erected around the site to appease the spirits and warn the living.
Even today, the imagery of Oni (Japanese demons) is prevalent throughout the park. The Blood Pond Hell is not just a tourist attraction but a reminder of the awe and fear with which ancient Japanese people viewed the uncontrollable power of nature.
Modern Culture and The Healing Mud
Despite its ominous name, Chinoike Jigoku is a site of healing. For generations, the red clay produced by the spring has been used to manufacture a specific ointment known as Chinoike Nantoko.
This ointment is a registered medicine in Japan, famous for treating skin diseases like eczema, burns, and insect bites. During the war, it was even used to treat soldiers’ wounds. Visitors today can purchase this unique souvenir at the on-site shop, bringing home a piece of the “hell” that actually heals rather than harms.
The site has modernized significantly, featuring a well-maintained garden path that leads up a small hill, offering a panoramic view of the red pond below. It is a photogenic spot that contrasts the violence of the boiling water with the serenity of the surrounding Japanese gardens.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting the Blood Pond Hell is a highlight of any trip to Kyushu. Here are some tips to make the most of your visit:
- The Jigoku Meguri Pass: If you plan to visit more than two of the Beppu Hells (there are seven in total), purchase the combination ticket (Jigoku Meguri Pass). It creates a substantial saving compared to buying individual tickets for each site.
- Transportation: Chinoike Jigoku is located slightly apart from the main cluster of Hells in the Kannawa district. It is located in the Shibaseki district, right next to Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell). You can easily reach it via a short bus ride or taxi from the Kannawa area.
- Foot Bath (Ashiyu): While you cannot submerge your body in the boiling red pond, there is a designated foot bath fed by the spring’s water. The water here is cooled to a comfortable temperature. It is free to use, but bring a small towel to dry your feet afterward.
- Timing: The red color is most vibrant on sunny days. Try to visit mid-morning when the steam is active but the lighting illuminates the rich iron colors of the pond.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical context of Japan’s geothermal landscapes, the following texts provide essential insights:
- Bungo no Kuni Fudoki (Records of the Culture and Geography of Bungo Province): Compiled in the early 8th century (Nara Period), this ancient report specifically mentions the red hot springs of this region, serving as the earliest written record of the Blood Pond Hell.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While broader in scope, this classical text helps contextualize the ancient Japanese view of volcanic lands and the mythological framework that gave birth to the “Jigoku” naming convention.
Chinoike Jigoku stands as a testament to the power of the earth, transforming a terrifying volcanic vent into a cherished cultural landmark.