This World and Beyond: A Journey into Japan’s Ohigan
In the tapestry of Japanese culture, few concepts are as visually and spiritually evocative as the duality of Shigan and Higan. As the seasons shift and the days and nights find perfect balance during the Equinoxes, Japan enters a period known as Ohigan. It is a time when the veil between “this world” and “the world beyond” is believed to be at its thinnest, inviting both deep introspection and communal remembrance.
For travelers visiting Japan in March or September, understanding this concept unlocks a deeper appreciation of the quiet bustling in cemeteries, the seasonal sweets appearing in shop windows, and the fiery red flowers blooming along the rice paddies.
The Philosophical Origins: Crossing the River
To understand Ohigan, one must first grasp the Buddhist cosmology that shaped it. The term Higan (彼岸) translates literally to “the other shore.” In Buddhist thought, this metaphor represents Nirvana, or Enlightenment—a state free from suffering and the cycle of rebirth.
Conversely, we currently reside in Shigan (此岸), or “this shore.” This is the physical world of Samsara, defined by earthly desires, material attachment, and impermanence. Separating these two shores is a metaphorical river, often likened to the River of Three Crossings (Sanzu-no-kawa) in Japanese folklore, a torrential flow of worldly passions and suffering.
The period of Ohigan occurs twice a year, surrounding the Spring and Autumn Equinoxes. During these times, the sun rises exactly in the East and sets exactly in the West. Pure Land Buddhism teaches that the Western Paradise (the realm of Amida Buddha) lies due west. Therefore, as the sun sets directly west, the path between the world of the living and the Pure Land is aligned, making it the ideal time to pray for ancestors and meditate on crossing the river from confusion to enlightenment.
Legends of the Spider Lily
While the spring Equinox is celebrated with the blooming of plums and early cherries, the autumn Ohigan is visually dominated by a flower steeped in legend: the Higanbana, or Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata).
Also known as Manjushage (flower of the heavens), these striking red blossoms erupt from the ground specifically during the autumn equinox. In Japanese folklore, they are ominous yet beautiful, often called the “flowers of the dead.” Legend says these flowers grow along the banks of the Sanzu River, guiding the spirits of the deceased toward the afterlife.
A poignant characteristic of the Higanbana is that its leaves and flowers never appear at the same time. The leaves grow only after the flowers have withered and fallen. This separation has given rise to the legend that the leaves and flowers are two lovers destined never to meet, further cementing the flower as a symbol of separation and the transition between life and death.
Modern Culture: Ancestors and Sweet Rice
In modern Japan, Ohigan is less about strict theological study and more about family reunion and paying respects to the departed. It is a national holiday period centered on Ohaka-mairi (grave visiting).
During this week, families flock to local cemeteries to clean their ancestral stone graves. They wash the monuments with water, arrange fresh flowers, and burn incense. It is not a mournful occasion but rather a gesture of gratitude to those who came before.
The Tale of Two Sweets
Food plays a central role in this observance. The traditional offering is a sweet rice ball covered in azuki bean paste. Interestingly, the name of this snack changes depending on the season, reflecting the Japanese love for seasonal botany:
- Botamochi: Eaten during the Spring Ohigan, named after the Botan (Peony) which blooms in spring.
- Ohagi: Eaten during the Autumn Ohigan, named after the Hagi (Japanese bush clover) which blooms in autumn.
Though the ingredients are virtually identical, the distinction in naming highlights the culture’s deep connection to the rhythms of nature.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Ohigan
If you find yourself in Japan during the equinoxes (around March 20th or September 23rd), here is how to respectfully engage with this cultural moment:
1. View the Higanbana
For autumn travelers, visiting Kinchakuda Manjushage Park in Saitama Prefecture is essential. Here, millions of red spider lilies create a surreal, fiery red carpet beneath the trees. It is one of the most photogenic spectacles in Japan.
2. Taste the Season
Visit a local Wagashi (traditional sweet) shop or even a convenience store to try Ohagi or Botamochi. It is a delicious way to participate in the tradition.
3. Temple Etiquette
Temples will be busier than usual. If you visit a cemetery attached to a temple, be respectful of families cleaning graves. Do not take photos of people praying or specific grave markers without permission. Quiet observation is welcomed.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical and textual roots of these concepts, the following texts provide essential context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): For early records of Buddhist adoption in Japan.
- The Heart Sutra: For the philosophical understanding of Paramita (crossing to the other shore).
- Tales of Tono (Tono Monogatari) by Kunio Yanagita: For folklore concerning spirits, the afterlife, and local legends.
By understanding the bridge between Shigan and Higan, a traveler sees more than just temples and flowers; they see the profound hope and remembrance that connects the Japanese people to their past.