Higan: Unveiling Japan’s Sacred Equinox Traditions
As the seasons shift in Japan, a distinct spiritual atmosphere settles over the archipelago. The scorching humidity of summer or the biting chill of winter begins to fade, giving way to the temperate days of the equinox. In Japan, this transition is not merely meteorological; it marks the arrival of Higan (彼岸), a week-long Buddhist tradition deeply woven into the cultural fabric of the nation. For travelers, Higan offers a profound glimpse into how the Japanese honor their ancestors and interpret the cycle of life and death.
Introduction to Higan
The word “Higan” literally translates to “the other shore.” It refers to a period of seven days surrounding both the Spring Equinox (Shunbun no Hi) and the Autumn Equinox (Shubun no Hi). In Japan, these days are national holidays, reflecting their importance to society.
There is a famous Japanese proverb: “Atsusa samusa mo Higan made” (Heat and cold last until Higan). This saying captures the dual nature of the holiday—it is a marker of agricultural seasons and a spiritual bridge. During this time, the day and night are of equal length, symbolizing the Middle Way of Buddhism, a state of balance essential for enlightenment.
Origins: A Unique Japanese Synthesis
While Buddhism originated in India and traveled through China before reaching Japan, the specific observance of Higan is unique to Japanese Buddhism. It is a prime example of religious syncretism, blending traditional Buddhist philosophy with indigenous Shinto reverence for nature and ancestors.
Historically, the practice dates back to the Heian period, initiated by imperial decree. The etymology stems from the Sanskrit concept of Paramita, which means “crossing over to the other shore.” In Buddhist cosmology, the “river” separates the world of suffering and desire (this shore, or Shigan) from the world of enlightenment and Nirvana (the other shore, or Higan).
The Emperor Shomu (8th century), known for constructing the Great Buddha of Nara, helped solidify these practices, encouraging the populace to recite sutras during the equinoxes to protect the nation and ensure good harvests.
Legend and Spirituality: The River and the Lily
The spiritual imagery of Higan is vivid. It is believed that during the equinox, the sun rises directly in the East and sets directly in the West. As the Western Pure Land (ruled by Amida Buddha) is located in the west, the setting sun acts as a guide for the souls of the departed to cross the Sanzu River—the Japanese equivalent of the River Styx—to reach the Other Shore.
Perhaps the most striking visual element of the Autumn Higan is the Manjushage, or Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata). These distinct, bright red flowers bloom exclusively during the equinox. Legends say these flowers grow along the banks of the Sanzu River, guiding the dead with their fiery color. In folklore, they are often called “flowers of the dead” or “abandoned child flowers.” Because they bloom after their leaves have fallen, the flower and leaves never meet, symbolizing the separation of lovers or the separation of the living from the dead.
Modern Culture: Ohagi and Haka-mairi
Today, Higan is less about ascetic training for enlightenment and more about Haka-mairi (grave visiting). Families return to their hometowns to clean their ancestral gravesites. You will often see cemeteries filled with smoke from incense sticks and fresh flowers brightening the grey stone monuments. The ritual involves washing the gravestone with water, offering prayers, and reporting family news to the ancestors.
Food also plays a central role. The signature offering is a sweet rice ball covered in azuki bean paste. Interestingly, its name changes with the season:
- Botamochi: Eaten in spring, named after the Botan (Peony).
- Ohagi: Eaten in autumn, named after the Hagi (Japanese Bush Clover).
While the ingredients are virtually identical, the distinction honors the specific flora of the season, showcasing the Japanese obsession with seasonality.
Traveler’s Tips for Higan
If you find yourself in Japan during March or September, observing Higan can be a rewarding cultural experience.
- Visit Kinchakuda Manjushage Park: Located in Saitama Prefecture, this park boasts millions of Red Spider Lilies in autumn. It creates a surreal red carpet beneath the trees—a photographer’s dream.
- Taste the Season: Visit a depachika (department store basement food hall) to buy high-quality Ohagi or Botamochi. It is a traditional taste of the season.
- Temple Etiquette: If you visit large temples like Shitennoji in Osaka, you may witness special services. Observe quietly. When walking through public cemeteries (which are often scenic), be respectful. Do not take close-up photos of families praying or specific names on gravestones.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical and theological underpinnings of Japanese beliefs surrounding death and nature, the following texts provide essential context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): For understanding early imperial rituals and nature worship.
- The Heart Sutra: Often recited during Higan services.
- Japanese Buddhism: A Cultural History by Yoshiro Tamura: Provides context on how Japanese Buddhism evolved distinct practices like Higan.