The Sacred Peak: Unveiling Mount Hikosan Shugendo
Deep within the lush forests of the Fukuoka and Oita border lies a place where the veil between the human world and the divine seems remarkably thin. Mount Hikosan (英彦山) is not merely a hiking destination; it is a spiritual fortress, standing alongside Mount Haguro and Mount Omine as one of Japan’s three major centers of Shugendo. For centuries, this sacred peak has echoed with the rhythmic chanting of mountain ascetics and the haunting call of the conch shell. For the modern traveler, Mt. Hikosan offers a profound journey into the heart of Japanese mysticism.
Origins of the Spiritual Path
Shugendo is a uniquely Japanese religion, a syncretic blend of indigenous Shinto nature worship, Taoism, and Esoteric Buddhism. The practitioners, known as Yamabushi (those who lie in the mountains), seek spiritual power and enlightenment through rigorous physical endurance in wild nature.
The history of religious practice on Mount Hikosan spans over a millennium. By the Heian period (794–1185), the mountain had established itself as a premier training ground. Unlike purely Buddhist temples or Shinto shrines, Hikosan flourished as a complex of “shrine-temples,” housing thousands of warrior-monks at its peak. It was believed that the mountain itself was a mandala—a physical manifestation of the Buddhist cosmos. Climbing its slopes was not sport; it was a ritual of death and rebirth, shedding the ego to emerge purified by the mountain spirits.
Legend and Lore
The name “Hikosan” is steeped in imperial mythology. According to ancient lore recorded in texts referencing the age of the gods, the mountain is the dwelling place of Ame-no-Oshiho-mimi-no-Mikoto, the eldest son of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu. Because the enshrined deity is the “Child of the Sun” (Hi-no-Ko), the mountain was originally called “Hiko-san.”
The specific character “Ei” (英), meaning “excellent” or “heroic,” was added later by imperial decree. In 1729, Emperor Reigen, recognizing the mountain’s unmatched spiritual potency and historical significance, bestowed this honorific title, officially changing the characters to “英彦山.”
Local folklore also speaks of the Tengu—mythical long-nosed goblins who act as the guardians of the mountain. In Shugendo lore, Tengu are often viewed as manifestations of the mountain’s raw power or as the spirits of former ascetics. It is said that the greatest Yamabushi learned their magical arts from the Tengu of Hikosan, mastering the ability to fly or control the elements.
Shugendo in Modern Culture
While the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century forcibly separated Shinto and Buddhism, causing a decline in traditional Shugendo practices, the spirit of Mt. Hikosan remains vibrant today. The mountain is no longer inhabited by thousands of warrior-monks, but the lineage survives through modern practitioners and local preservation societies.
Visitors today can witness this living history during the Shugen-sai or similar festivals, where Yamabushi clad in distinctive checkered robes blow the horagai (conch shell trumpet) and perform the Goma fire ritual. This ceremony, involving the burning of wooden prayer sticks to invoke deities and purify negative karma, is a visceral experience of heat, sound, and chanting that transports observers back to the Edo period.
The architecture of the mountain also serves as a cultural museum. The magnificent Hikosan Jingu Shrine, particularly the Hohei-den (Offering Hall), reflects the grandeur of its past. The massive Bronze Torii gate at the entrance, cast in 1637, stands as a testament to the mountain’s economic and political importance in feudal Japan.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Mount Hikosan requires preparation, as it is both a historical site and a physical challenge.
- Access: The mountain is best accessed via Soeda Town in Fukuoka Prefecture. A combination of trains (JR Hitahikosan Line BRT) and local buses can get you to the base, though renting a car offers the most flexibility.
- The Climb: The main approach involves a steep, stone-staircase climb to Hikosan Jingu. For casual tourists, the “Slope Car” (a monorail-like vehicle) offers a scenic and accessible ride to the main shrine buildings. For hikers, the trail to the upper sanctuary (Naka-dake) takes about 2-3 hours and requires sturdy footwear.
- Best Seasons: Autumn (late October to November) is spectacular, as the mountain is set ablaze with red and gold maple leaves. Spring offers cherry blossoms and pleasant hiking temperatures.
- Etiquette: Remember this is an active religious site. Bow slightly when passing through Torii gates, and keep voices low in shrine precincts.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the mythology of the deities enshrined at Mt. Hikosan, the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan) provide the foundational myths of Ame-no-Oshiho-mimi-no-Mikoto.
- Japanese Mountain Asceticism: Shugendo and the Yamabushi – Scholarly articles on the general practice of Shugendo.
- Hikosan Jingu Official Records – Local pamphlets available at the shrine office (mostly in Japanese, but essential for specific dates).
- The Catalpa Bow: A Study of Shamanistic Practices in Japan by Carmen Blacker – Excellent context for understanding the mystical side of Japanese mountain worship.