Kuchiyose: Exploring Japan’s Ancient Spirit Summoning Rite
Japan is a land where the boundary between the living and the dead is often portrayed as a thin, permeable veil. Nowhere is this more palpable than on the desolate slopes of Mount Osore (Osorezan) in Aomori Prefecture, one of Japan’s three most sacred places. Here, amidst the smell of sulfur and the barren, rocky landscape, visitors seek out the Itako—blind female shamans—to perform a ritual known as Kuchiyose. This spirit summoning rite is a poignant cultural phenomenon that bridges the gap between grieving families and their departed ancestors, offering a glimpse into the profound depths of Japanese folk religion.
Origins of the Spirit Mediums
The practice of Kuchiyose is deeply rooted in the shamanistic traditions of Tohoku, the northeastern region of Japan. Historically, the Itako were young girls who, having lost their sight due to illness (often measles) in an era before modern medicine, were unable to participate in agricultural labor. To ensure their survival and role in society, they were apprenticed to older shamans.
The training was grueling, often involving extreme ascetic practices such as cold-water ablutions in winter, fasting, and the memorization of thousands of sutras and scriptures. Upon completing this initiation, the apprentice would undergo a ritual marriage to a deity, granting her the spiritual authority to act as a medium. While the practice has roots in ancient Shinto shamanism, it eventually syncretized with Buddhism, creating the unique spiritual tapestry seen today at Osorezan.
The Legend and the Ritual
Kuchiyose is not merely a séance; it is a ritualized dialogue. According to legend and belief, the spirits of the dead migrate to Mount Osore, a dormant volcano that eerily resembles descriptions of the Buddhist hell and paradise, complete with a bubbling crater lake and the metaphoric Sanzu River which souls must cross.
During the Kuchiyose ritual, the Itako summons a spirit by chanting special sutras and rubbing a rosary made of beads and animal teeth, known as irataka, to create a rhythmic, hypnotic sound. It is said that the sharp noise calls the spirit from the underworld. Once the connection is made, the Itako enters a trance-like state. She then speaks in the voice of the deceased, conveying messages of comfort, advice, or gratitude to the living relatives.
There are generally two types of Kuchiyose: Kami-kuchiyose, invoking the gods for protection or prophecy, and Hotoke-kuchiyose, summoning the spirits of the dead. The latter is the most common reason pilgrims trek to the remote Shimokita Peninsula today.
Modern Culture and Preservation
In modern Japan, the tradition of the Itako is fading. With advances in medicine preventing blindness and changes in social structures, fewer women enter this grueling vocation. Today, only a handful of authentic Itako remain, most of them elderly. Despite this decline, the cultural significance of Kuchiyose remains potent.
The ritual is most visible during the Osorezan Taisai (Great Festival) held twice a year, in late July and October. During these times, long lines of mourners wait for hours to speak with their lost loved ones. The practice highlights a fundamental aspect of Japanese culture: the enduring bond between the living and the ancestors. It offers a form of grief counseling that modern psychology often cannot replicate—a chance for final words and closure.
Furthermore, the concept of Kuchiyose has permeated Japanese pop culture, appearing in anime and manga (such as Naruto or Shaman King), although these depictions often lean more towards fantasy battle magic than the somber, emotional reality of the Osorezan ritual.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting Osorezan
Visiting Mount Osore is a hauntingly beautiful experience, but it requires planning and respect.
- Best Time to Visit: The temple area is open from May to October. The main festivals occur in late July (20th-24th) and early October. This is when the Itako are present. Outside of these dates, Itako are generally not at the mountain.
- Etiquette: This is a place of deep mourning. Photography is generally permitted of the landscape, but strictly forbidden during the Kuchiyose ritual itself. Keep your voice low and dress conservatively.
- The Atmosphere: Be prepared for the strong smell of sulfur and a desolate landscape. The area is filled with piling stones and colorful pinwheels, left by parents mourning lost children. It is an emotionally heavy environment.
- Access: Osorezan is located on the Shimokita Peninsula. It is best reached by bus from JR Shimokita Station. Accommodations are available at the temple lodgings (shukubo), which offer a unique opportunity to eat vegetarian monk’s cuisine (shojin ryori) and soak in the sacred hot springs.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical foundations of Japanese shamanism and the world of spirits, the following texts provide essential context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While not about Itako specifically, this 8th-century text establishes the fundamental Shinto views on the kami and the underworld (Yomi).
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Offers historical narratives on the relationship between the imperial court and spiritual rites.
- Carmen Blacker’s The Catalpa Bow: An excellent English-language study on shamanic practices in Japan, offering detailed insights into the training of the Itako.