The Legend of Okikurumi: Hokkaido’s Ainu Culture Hero
When travelers dream of Hokkaido, they often envision powder snow in Niseko or fields of lavender in Furano. However, the soul of Japan’s northernmost island resides in its indigenous history—the culture of the Ainu people. At the heart of Ainu folklore stands a figure of immense power and benevolence: Okikurumi (also known as Ae-oina-kamuy). As a deity who descended to earth to teach humanity the arts of survival, Okikurumi is the quintessential culture hero, bridging the gap between the divine world of Kamuy and the human world of Ainu.
Origins: The God Who Descended
To understand Okikurumi, one must first understand the Ainu worldview. In Ainu belief, spirits, or Kamuy, reside in everything—animals, plants, fire, and water. The world we inhabit is Ainu Mosir (Land of Humans), while the gods live in Kamuy Mosir (Land of Gods).
Okikurumi is not just a god; he is the first ancestor and the teacher of the Ainu. While names vary by region, he is most famously known in the Saru River region as Okikurumi. His origins are shrouded in mystical drama. According to prevalent oral traditions, he is the son of the Thunder God (Kanna Kamuy) and the Elm Tree Princess (Chikisa-ani). It is said he was born in a blaze of fire, instantly clad in woven armor, signaling his destiny as a warrior and protector.
Unlike distant deities who observe from the heavens, Okikurumi lived among humans. He is the “One who smells of humans” (Ainu-rak-gur), signifying his closeness to the people he protected.
The Legend: Teacher and Protector
The tales of Okikurumi are preserved in the Yukar, the magnificent oral epic poems of the Ainu. These stories do not just recount battles; they explain the origins of civilization.
The Gift of Knowledge
Before Okikurumi’s arrival, the Ainu did not know how to sustain themselves effectively. The legends depict a primitive time of chaos. Okikurumi taught the people how to make fire, how to hunt deer and bear, and how to fish for salmon. Crucially, he taught them the religious rituals necessary to honor the Kamuy. He explained that animals are gods visiting in disguise, and by treating their spirits with respect through rituals like Iyomante (the bear ceremony), the gods would return to bless the land with abundance.
The Battle Against Evil
Okikurumi was also a demon slayer. One famous legend recounts his battle with a monstrous fish or a giant stag that threatened to destroy the land. Through wit and divine strength, usually aided by a magical sword or sacred arrows, he vanquished these evils, reshaping the landscape of Hokkaido in the process. Many distinct rock formations and valleys in Hokkaido are said to be the scars of these ancient battles.
The Departure
There is a somber note to his legend. Stories suggest that eventually, the humans became lazy or disrespectful toward the gods. Disappointed by the decline in spiritual adherence, Okikurumi returned to the Land of Gods. However, the prophecy remains that he will return when the Ainu people are in dire need, provided they maintain their reverence for nature.
Modern Culture: Tracing the Footsteps of the Hero
Today, the spirit of Okikurumi is experiencing a revival alongside the broader Ainu cultural renaissance. He is no longer a forgotten figure of the past but a symbol of indigenous resilience and ecological wisdom.
In the Nibutani region of Biratori, located along the Saru River, the legend is most vibrant. This area is considered the sacred ground of Ainu culture. Here, you can find statues and artistic representations of Okikurumi. His influence is seen in the intricate wood carvings and the Attus (woven bark textiles) that he traditionally wore.
Furthermore, the Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park in Shiraoi has brought these stories to a global audience. Through traditional storytelling performances and animated retellings, the deeds of Okikurumi educate a new generation about the importance of living in harmony with nature.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Ainu Mythology
If you want to walk in the footsteps of Okikurumi, here is how to plan your cultural pilgrimage in Hokkaido:
- Visit Nibutani: This is essential. Visit the Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum in Biratori. It is less commercialized than other spots and deeply rooted in the legends of Okikurumi. You can see the landscape where the myths supposedly took place.
- Explore Upopoy: Located in Shiraoi (an hour from Sapporo by train), the National Ainu Museum is a world-class facility. Check the schedule for traditional Yukar storytelling events.
- Respect the Land: When hiking in Hokkaido, remember the Ainu philosophy taught by Okikurumi: everything has a spirit. Treat the wilderness with profound respect.
- Buy Authentic Crafts: Support living Ainu artisans. Look for wood carvings or embroidery in Akanko Ainu Kotan or Nibutani. These often feature patterns protected by the deities.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into Japanese and Ainu mythology, the following texts and resources provide context:
- Ainu Shin’yōshū (Collection of Ainu epics): Compiled by Chiri Yukie, this is the most vital text for understanding the Yukar and the voice of the Ainu gods.
- The Kojiki and Nihon Shoki: While these are texts of the Yamato (mainland Japanese) people and do not contain Ainu myths, reading them provides a fascinating contrast. While the Kojiki focuses on the imperial lineage of the sun goddess Amaterasu, Ainu mythology focuses on nature worship and culture heroes like Okikurumi, highlighting the distinct anthropological roots of Northern Japan.
- Kayano Shigeru’s Our Land Was a Forest: An essential memoir by the first Ainu parliamentarian, offering a modern perspective on the legends and life in the Saru River valley.