Fukagawa Festival: Tokyo’s Spirited Water-Throwing Tradition
Summer in Tokyo is synonymous with humidity, fireworks, and festivals, but few events capture the visceral energy of the season quite like the Fukagawa Festival (Fukagawa Hachiman Matsuri). Held in the historic downtown area of Koto Ward, this event is affectionately known as the “Mizukake Matsuri” or Water-throwing Festival. As spectators splash gallons of water onto passing portable shrines, the lines between participant and observer blur in a joyous, chaotic celebration of community and history.
Ranked as one of the three great festivals of Edo (along with the Kanda and Sanno festivals), the Fukagawa Festival offers a unique glimpse into the spirited soul of Tokyo’s shitamachi (downtown) culture.
Origins of the Edo Spirit
The Fukagawa Festival is centered around the Tomioka Hachiman Shrine, which was established in 1627. The festival itself dates back to the mid-17th century, thriving during the Edo period (1603–1867). Unlike the aristocratic atmosphere of Kyoto’s festivals, Fukagawa was born from the merchant and working classes of Edo. It was a time when the common people could express their vitality and devotion.
The festival was historically supported by the Tokugawa Shogunate, but its true heart belonged to the locals—the fishermen, timber merchants, and artisans of the Fukagawa district. This area played a crucial role in the development of Edo, and the festival served as a way to unify the community and pray for prosperity and protection against misfortunes.
The Legend and Deity
The God of War and Culture
The primary deity enshrined at Tomioka Hachiman is Hachiman, the god of archery and war, who acts as a divine protector of Japan and its people. Hachiman is historically identified with the legendary Emperor Ojin. While the festival itself is an Edo-period creation, the deity it honors has deep roots in Japanese mythology.
The Meaning of the Water
A common question regarding the festival is: “Why the water?” While practical for cooling down participants in the blistering August heat, the act holds a deeper spiritual significance known as misogi (purification). In Shinto belief, water cleanses the spirit of impurities (kegare). By throwing water on the Mikoshi (portable shrines) and their bearers, spectators are not only offering relief from the sun but also purifying the palanquins before they enter the presence of the gods. It creates a bond of solidarity, suggesting that the community, the bearers, and the gods are all in this together.
Modern Culture: The “Hon-matsuri”
Today, the festival is a massive spectacle, but travelers should note the schedule. The “Hon-matsuri” (main festival) occurs only once every three years (years roughly divisible by three, though adjustments were made post-pandemic). During a Hon-matsuri, the scale is staggering.
The Parade of 53 Mikoshi
The highlight is the joint procession of approximately 53 large mikoshi representing different neighborhood associations. The air vibrates with the chant of “Wasshoi! Wasshoi!”—a traditional shout distinct to this festival, symbolizing the harmony of carrying the weight together.
As the shrines wind their way through an 8-kilometer route, fire trucks, shopkeepers, and local residents stand ready with buckets, hoses, and water guns. The streets of Monzen-Nakacho transform into a torrent of splashing water. The shrine also boasts the sheer spectacle of possessing the heaviest golden mikoshi in Japan, weighing over 4 tons, heavily adorned with diamonds and rubies (though this specific one is usually too heavy to be carried in the parade).
Traveler’s Tips for the Fukagawa Festival
Participating in the Fukagawa Festival is an unforgettable experience, but it requires preparation. Here is how to survive and thrive during the wettest event in Tokyo.
- Prepare to Get Soaked: Even if you intend to watch from the sidelines, you will likely get wet. The water throwing is enthusiastic and indiscriminate.
- Waterproof Everything: Place your phone, wallet, and camera in sealed waterproof bags. If you are a photographer, bring rain covers for your gear.
- Dress Code: Wear quick-drying clothes and sandals that won’t slip. Many locals wear happi coats, but T-shirts and shorts are standard for tourists.
- Timing and Location: The festival typically takes place around August 15th. The main procession starts early in the morning (around 7:30 AM) at the Tomioka Hachiman Shrine near Monzen-Nakacho Station.
- Hydration: While there is plenty of water flying externally, the August heat in Tokyo is intense. Drink plenty of fluids to avoid heatstroke.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the mythological roots of the deity Hachiman or the concept of purification (misogi), the following historical texts provide foundational context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For early accounts of Japanese deities and the lineage of Emperor Ojin.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides historical context on the consolidation of the Yamato state and the deification of Hachiman.
- Tomioka Hachiman Shrine Archives: Local records detailing the 1627 foundation and the evolution of the festival during the Edo period.