The Sanno Festival: Tokyo’s Imperial Celebration
When one imagines Tokyo, neon lights and futuristic skylines often come to mind. However, beneath the modern veneer lies a city deeply rooted in Edo-period tradition. Nowhere is this more evident than during the Sanno Festival (Sanno Matsuri), a spectacular display of history that winds through the heart of Japan’s capital. Known as one of the three great festivals of Tokyo, alongside the Kanda and Fukagawa festivals, the Sanno Matsuri offers a unique window into the spiritual and imperial soul of the city.
Origins: The Shogun’s Celebration
The roots of the Sanno Festival are inextricably linked to the rise of Tokyo itself. During the Edo period (1603–1867), when the Tokugawa Shogunate ruled Japan, the Hie Shrine became the guardian shrine of Edo Castle. Because of this prestigious association, the Sanno Festival was designated as a Tenka Matsuri (Supreme Festival).
Unlike common folk festivals, a Tenka Matsuri was granted the rare privilege of entering the grounds of Edo Castle. The Shogun himself would inspect the procession, making it a high-status event that bridged the gap between the military rulers and the townspeople. This historical weight is still felt today; the procession is one of the few permitted to enter the grounds of the current Imperial Palace, maintaining a centuries-old tradition of reverence for authority and divine protection.
Legend and Spiritual Significance
While the festival is a celebration of the city, its spiritual core revolves around the Hie Shrine and its deity, Oyamakui-no-kami. According to Shinto lore, this deity resides on Mount Hiei and is the guardian of the city and the Imperial family.
The Monkey Guardians
Unique to the legend of Hie Shrine is the absence of komainu (lion-dogs) that usually guard Shinto gates. Instead, visitors will find statues of monkeys. In Japanese legend, monkeys are considered the messengers of the mountain deity Oyamakui-no-kami. They are known as Masaru, a play on words meaning “to expel evil” (ma meaning demon, saru meaning to leave) and “to excel” (masaru).
The Sanno Festival is not just a parade; it is a massive ritual purification. The movement of the mikoshi (portable shrines) through the streets is believed to spread the deity’s power, renewing the life force of the city and chasing away misfortune—a task the monkey guardians are spiritually charged to assist with.
Modern Culture: A Parade Through Time
In modern Tokyo, the Sanno Festival serves as a stunning visual contrast. The main event, known as the Shinkosai, features a procession 300 meters long that winds through the concrete canyons of the Akasaka, Ginza, and Marunouchi districts.
The Shinkosai Procession
The spectacle includes over 500 participants dressed in authentic imperial court costumes from the Heian and Edo periods. Priests on horseback, dancers, and musicians playing ancient gagaku music march alongside ornate floats. The sight of a samurai-clad warrior walking past a luxury flagship store in Ginza captures the essence of modern Japan: a harmony of the ancient and the avant-garde.
The centerpiece involves the transport of three portable shrines carrying the spirits of the deities. This 9-hour journey covers nearly 20 kilometers, stopping at the Imperial Palace for prayers offered to the Emperor and the peace of the nation, reinforcing the festival’s aristocratic lineage.
Traveler’s Tips for the Sanno Festival
Experiencing the Sanno Festival requires a bit of strategic planning, as it operates on a specific schedule that can confuse first-time visitors.
- The Schedule: The full Sanno Festival alternates years with the Kanda Matsuri. The grand procession (Shinkosai) takes place only in even-numbered years (e.g., 2024, 2026) in mid-June. In odd-numbered years, the observances are much smaller and mostly confined to the shrine grounds.
- Best Viewing Spots: The procession covers a vast area. For the best photos, head to the entrance of the Imperial Palace around noon when the mikoshi arrive for the blessing. Alternatively, Chuo-dori in Ginza offers a bustling urban backdrop for the procession.
- The Stairs of Hie Shrine: If you miss the parade, visiting Hie Shrine in Akasaka is a must. The entrance features a stunning tunnel of red torii gates, similar to Fushimi Inari in Kyoto but far less crowded, offering a serene escape.
- Weather Prep: June is the start of the rainy season (tsuyu) in Tokyo. While the parade continues in light rain, heavy downpours can alter plans. Pack a clear umbrella to enjoy the view without obstructing others.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical and mythological context of Japanese festivals and Shinto deities, the following texts are invaluable:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For background on Shinto creation myths and the lineage of deities like Oyamakui-no-kami.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides historical context on the relationship between the Imperial court and shrine traditions.
- Edo-Period Woodblock Prints (Ukiyo-e): Various works by Hiroshige depict the Sanno Festival during the Edo period, offering a visual reference to how little the costumes have changed over centuries.