Experience Chinowa Kuguri: The Shinto Grass Ring Ritual
If you visit a Shinto shrine in Japan towards the end of June, you might encounter a curious sight: a massive ring made of woven grass standing tall in front of the main hall. Visitors line up to weave through it in a figure-eight pattern. This is Chinowa Kuguri, a centuries-old purification ritual deeply embedded in Japanese culture. It serves as a spiritual reset button, cleansing the soul of the past six months’ bad luck and praying for health in the coming half of the year.
The Origins: Nagoshi no Harae
To understand Chinowa Kuguri, one must understand the Shinto concept of time and purity. In Shinto belief, sin (tsumi) and impurity (kegare) accumulate naturally over time, much like dust gathers in a house. These impurities aren’t necessarily moral failings but can result from illness, bad luck, or contact with death.
Twice a year, Japan conducts a great purification ceremony known as O-harae. The summer purification, held on June 30th, is called Nagoshi no Harae. It marks the turning point of the year. The Chinowa (cogon grass ring) is the physical tool used during this ceremony. By passing through the ring, believers metaphorically scrape off the accumulated grime of the spirit, emerging purified and ready to face the intense heat of the Japanese summer without falling ill.
The Legend of Somin Futamin
Why a ring of grass? The origin of this practice is rooted in a folktale recorded in the Bingo no Kuni Fudoki (ancient records of Bingo Province).
The legend tells of the god Susanoo-no-Mikoto, who was traveling in disguise as a weary human. He sought lodging from two brothers. The wealthy brother, Kotan Shorai, refused him entry, hoarding his riches. The poor brother, Somin Futamin, despite having very little, welcomed the stranger and shared his meager food.
Years later, Susanoo returned to reveal his true identity. He warned Somin Futamin of a coming plague and instructed him to wear a ring woven from reeds (茅 or chi) around his waist. When the epidemic struck, only Somin Futamin and his family—protected by the reed ring—survived. Over centuries, the small waist talisman evolved into the massive standing ring we see at shrines today, symbolizing a barrier against disease and misfortune.
Modern Culture: How to Perform the Ritual
Today, the ritual is a serene communal activity. While the atmosphere is solemn, it is also accessible to tourists who wish to participate respectfully. The Chinowa is typically made of dried cogon grass tightly bound together.
The Steps of the Ritual:
- Bow: Stand in front of the ring and bow once.
- Left: Step through the ring leading with your left foot, turn left, and circle back to the front.
- Right: Step through again, turn right, and circle back to the front.
- Left: Step through a third time, turn left, and circle back to the front.
- Finish: Step through the ring one final time and proceed to the altar to offer your prayer.
This figure-eight movement resembles the infinity symbol ($\infty$), signifying limitless purification. Some shrines may suggest chanting a specific poem (waka) while walking, usually referencing the legend of Somin Futamin or the cleansing power of the Minazuki (June) waters.
Traveler’s Tips
If you are planning to experience this unique facet of Japanese culture, keep these tips in mind:
- Timing is Key: While the official date is June 30th, many major shrines set up the Chinowa a few days or even weeks in advance. A smaller version is sometimes set up for New Year’s Eve (Toshikoshi no Harae).
- Popular Locations: In Kyoto, Kitano Tenmangu and Heian Jingu are famous for this ritual. In Tokyo, Meiji Jingu and Kanda Myojin attract large crowds.
- Etiquette: The lines can be long. Be patient and observe the locals before your turn. Do not stop in the middle of the ring to take selfies, as this blocks the flow of the ritual.
- Souvenirs: Look for Chimaki or miniature reed ring amulets sold at the shrine office. These are meant to be hung in your doorway to ward off illness, echoing the original legend.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the mythology and history behind these rituals, the following ancient texts provide the foundation for Shinto beliefs:
- Bingo no Kuni Fudoki: The primary source for the legend of Somin Futamin and the origin of the reed ring talisman.
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Describes the nature of Susanoo-no-Mikoto and early concepts of purification.
- The Engishiki: A 10th-century book of laws and regulations that details the prayers (Norito) used in the Great Purification ceremonies.