Gion Goryo-e: The Dark Origins of Kyoto’s Gion Matsuri
When travelers imagine Kyoto in July, their minds are often filled with images of the magnificent Gion Matsuri. Massive wooden floats adorned with tapestries navigate narrow streets, accompanied by the hypnotic kon-chiki-chin rhythm of traditional musicians. However, beneath the festive atmosphere and the dazzling spectacle of the Yamaboko Junko parade lies a darker, more somber history. This festival did not begin as a celebration, but as a desperate magical intervention known as the Gion Goryo-e.
To truly appreciate Japan’s most famous festival, one must look back over a millennium to a time when the capital was besieged not by tourists, but by invisible, malevolent forces.
The Origins: A Capital Under Siege
The term Goryo-e refers to a religious ritual held to appease goryo—the vengeful spirits of the dead. In the Heian period (794–1185), the people of Kyoto lived in constant fear of these spirits. They believed that when political rivals, nobles, or innocents died violently or with grudges, their spirits returned to wreak havoc on the living in the form of natural disasters, earthquakes, and, most terrifyingly, pestilence.
The specific origin of the Gion Matsuri dates back to the year 869 AD, during the Jogan era. Kyoto was suffering from a devastating plague that was wiping out the population. The imperial court, consulting diviners, concluded that the epidemic was caused by the angry spirit of Gozu Tenno (the Ox-Headed Heavenly King) and other vengeful ghosts.
In a desperate attempt to quell the outbreak, Emperor Seiwa ordered a massive purification ritual at the Shinsen-en, the imperial garden. Sixty-six halberds (hoko), representing the sixty-six provinces of ancient Japan, were erected to trap the demons. The portable shrines (mikoshi) from Gion-sha (now Yasaka Shrine) were paraded through the city to absorb the malevolence. This ritual was the first Gion Goryo-e. It was not initially an annual event but was repeated whenever plague struck, eventually evolving into the yearly festival we know today.
The Legend: Susanoo and the Poor Man’s Hospitality
While the historical record points to the plague of 869, the spiritual heart of the Gion Goryo-e is rooted in mythology and the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism. The central deity of the festival is Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the Shinto storm god, who was historically conflated with the Buddhist deity Gozu Tenno.
The legend associated with the festival tells the story of Somin Shorai. According to folklore, the god Susanoo was traveling disguised as a human and sought shelter for the night. He visited the home of a wealthy brother, Kotan Shorai, who refused him entry. He then visited the poor brother, Somin Shorai, who welcomed the stranger, sharing his meager food and offering a warm bed.
Years later, Susanoo returned and revealed his true identity. To reward Somin Shorai for his kindness, the god instructed him to wear a ring woven from茅 (chinowa or cogon grass) around his waist. When a plague swept through the land, only Somin Shorai’s family was spared. This legend is the origin of the chimaki amulets sold during the festival and the massive grass rings found at shrines, symbolizing protection against disease.
Modern Culture: From Exorcism to Extravaganza
Today, the Gion Goryo-e has transformed into the Gion Matsuri, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage event that spans the entire month of July. However, the DNA of the original purification ritual remains intact.
The majestic floats (yamaboko) are not just artistic masterpieces; they are spiritual tools. The tall halberds atop the floats act as lightning rods for spirits, snagging the plague demons as they move through the city. This is why, traditionally, the floats are dismantled immediately after the parade—to destroy the bad luck and spirits they have collected, ensuring they do not escape back into the capital.
The atmosphere in modern Kyoto during this time is a unique blend of solemn religious observance and a lively street party. Locals open their traditional merchant homes to display family heirlooms (the Byobu Matsuri or Folding Screen Festival), and street food stalls line the roads, yet the central purpose remains the appeasement of the gods to ensure the city’s health.
Traveler’s Tips for the Gion Spirit Festival
If you plan to visit Kyoto for this historic event, here is how to navigate the culture:
- The Main Events: The grand processions take place on July 17th (Saki Matsuri) and July 24th (Ato Matsuri). The 17th is larger, but the 24th is quieter and more atmospheric.
- Buy a Chimaki: You will see bamboo leaves wrapped in charms sold at the floats. These are chimaki. unlike the edible variety, these are amulets to be hung above your front door for protection against illness. Do not eat them!
- The Chinowa Kuguri: Visit Yasaka Shrine to walk through the large grass ring (chinowa). Walk through it in a figure-eight pattern to purify yourself, following the local etiquette.
- Respect the Sacred: While the evening street parties (Yoiyama) are fun, remember that the floats are temporary shrines containing deities. Be respectful when taking photos and do not touch the floats unless invited.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the spiritual history of Japan, consider exploring the following texts:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For the original myths concerning Susanoo-no-Mikoto.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides historical context on the early imperial court and religious practices.
- Shoku Nihon Koki: Historical texts detailing the early Heian period disasters and the rise of the Goryo faith.
- Kyoto Yasaka Shrine Records: Archives detailing the specific evolution of the Gion-sha rituals.