Goryo Festival: Appeasing Spirits in Ancient Kyoto
When travelers imagine Kyoto, they often picture serene rock gardens, geisha districts, and cherry blossoms drifting on the wind. However, the ancient capital was built upon a foundation of spiritual superstition and fear. Beneath the festive atmosphere of modern Kyoto lies the history of the Goryo-e, or Goryo Festival—a ritual originally designed not to celebrate, but to survive.
The Goryo Festival represents one of the most fascinating aspects of Japanese religious history: the transformation of fear into reverence. Held annually in May at the Kamigoryo and Shimogoryo Shrines, this event offers a unique window into the Heian period’s psyche, where political intrigue and supernatural terror went hand in hand.
The Origins: A Capital of Plagues
To understand the Goryo-e, one must look back to the Heian period (794–1185). While the imperial court was producing high art and literature, the city of Kyoto (then Heian-kyo) was frequently ravaged by natural disasters, earthquakes, and devastating plagues. In the worldview of the time, these calamities were not biological or geological random events; they were tatari—curses.
The people believed that these disasters were caused by onryo, the vengeful spirits of aristocrats and royals who had died tragically or were wrongly executed due to political plotting. To quell these angry ghosts, the Imperial Court began conducting rites of exorcism and appeasement known as Goryo-e (Meeting of the August Spirits).
The first recorded official Goryo-e took place in 863 AD at the Shinsen-en Garden. It was a desperate attempt by the Emperor to stop a virulent epidemic. Buddhist sutras were recited, dances were performed, and offerings were made to six specific spirits identified as the source of the suffering. This marked the beginning of a tradition that would eventually evolve into some of Japan’s most famous festivals, including the Gion Matsuri.
The Legend: From Vengeful Ghosts to Guardian Gods
The theology behind the Goryo Festival is centered on a uniquely Japanese spiritual concept: the pacification of the soul. The central figures of the Goryo-e are not benevolent ancestors, but rather political victims whose rage transcended death.
The most prominent among these spirits is Prince Sawara. In the late 8th century, he was stripped of his title as Crown Prince and exiled after being implicated in the assassination of a court official. He died of starvation and indignation while en route to exile. Shortly after his death, the Imperial family suffered a string of illnesses and the capital was struck by storms. Diviners identified Sawara’s angry spirit as the cause.
The genius of the Goryo belief system lies in the solution. Rather than fighting the spirits, the people deified them. By building shrines (Kamigoryo and Shimogoryo) and offering them high rank and respect, the terrifying onryo were transformed into goryo—honorable spirits. Once appeased, these powerful entities flipped their allegiance, becoming shugo-shin (guardian deities) who protected the city from the very plagues they once caused.
Modern Culture: The Festival Today
Today, the Goryo Festival has shed much of its somber, terrifying roots, evolving into a vibrant community celebration, though the underlying history remains respectful. The modern iteration is centered around the Kamigoryo Shrine (Upper Spirit Shrine) and Shimogoryo Shrine (Lower Spirit Shrine) in Kyoto.
The main event typically occurs on May 18th. The highlight is the Nanko Gyoretsu, a grand procession. During this parade, portable shrines (mikoshi) containing the spirits of the deities are carried through the neighborhood streets. They are accompanied by ox-drawn carts, priests on horseback, and locals dressed in authentic Heian-period imperial costumes.
While the atmosphere is festive, with food stalls (yatai) and music, the ritual function remains. The procession serves to take the deities out of the shrine to tour their parish, absorbing impurities and blessing the residents, ensuring a year of health and safety.
Traveler’s Tips
If you are planning to witness this slice of living history, keep the following tips in mind:
- Dates: The festival activities generally span from May 1st to May 18th, but the main procession is usually on May 18th. Always check the specific shrine schedule for the year you visit.
- Locations:
- Kamigoryo Shrine: Located near Kuramaguchi Station (Karasuma Subway Line).
- Shimogoryo Shrine: Located south of the Imperial Palace, near Marutamachi Station.
- Etiquette: While photography is permitted, remember that the mikoshi contains the deity. Do not obstruct the path of the procession. When the mikoshi passes, it is polite to bow slightly or stand quietly.
- The Route: The procession usually moves through the area surrounding the Kyoto Imperial Palace. Positioning yourself near the shrine entrance early in the morning allows for the best view of the departure rituals.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in diving deeper into the history of Japanese mythology, state rituals, and spirit pacification, the following texts and concepts are essential:
- Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku (The True History of Three Reigns of Japan): Contains the historical record of the first Goryo-e held in 863 AD.
- Shoku Nihon Koki: Provides context on the political intrigues and deaths of figures like Prince Sawara.
- The Kojiki & Nihon Shoki: While these ancient texts predate the specific Goryo-e rituals, they establish the fundamental Shinto concepts of kegare (spiritual pollution) and the power of kami essential to understanding the festival’s roots.
The Goryo Festival serves as a potent reminder that in Kyoto, the line between the world of the living and the world of the spirits is thin, and history is never truly forgotten.