Kamigamo Shrine: A Journey to the Origins of Kyoto
While the golden pavilion of Kinkaku-ji and the endless torii gates of Fushimi Inari Taisha dominate the typical Kyoto itinerary, a deeper, more ancient spiritual power resides in the city’s north. Kamigamo Shrine (officially known as Kamo-wakeikazuchi Shrine) is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also one of the oldest Shinto sanctuaries in Japan. Predating the founding of Kyoto itself, this site offers travelers a serene escape into the roots of Japanese mythology and imperial history.
Origins: Guardians of the Ancient Capital
To understand Kamigamo Shrine is to look back before 794 AD, the year Kyoto became the imperial capital. The shrine was founded around 678 AD, though the Kamo clan—the powerful priestly family that established it—had inhabited this area for centuries prior.
When Emperor Kammu established Heian-kyo (modern-day Kyoto), he designated the Kamo shrines (Kamigamo and its sister shrine, Shimogamo) as the guardians of the capital. The shrine served a crucial purpose: to protect the city from malign influences, specifically guarding the “Devil’s Gate” (Kimon) direction in later spiritual geography. Throughout the Heian period, the imperial court heavily patronized the shrine, establishing a prestige that rivals even the Grand Ise Shrine.
The Legend: The Red Arrow and the Thunder God
The mythology surrounding Kamigamo is as captivating as its architecture. The shrine is dedicated to Kamo Wakeikazuchi no Okami, the God of Thunder and Storms. According to the ancient chronicles, specifically found in the Yamashiro Fudoki, the origins of this deity are miraculous.
The legend tells of a princess named Tamayori-hime. One day, while she was purifying herself in the Kamo River, a magnificent vermilion arrow floated down the stream. She picked it up and brought it home, placing it near her bedside. Shortly after, she found herself pregnant. She gave birth to a son, who grew at a supernatural rate.
When the child’s grandfather held a banquet and asked the boy to offer a cup of wine to his father, the boy looked toward the heavens, transformed into a thunderbolt, and ascended into the sky. It was revealed that the red arrow was actually a disguise of the Dragon Deity or Fire Thunder Deity. The boy became Kamo Wakeikazuchi, the deity now enshrined at Kamigamo, revered for his power to control the elements and ward off disaster.
Modern Culture: Sand Cones and the Aoi Matsuri
Today, Kamigamo Shrine remains a vibrant center of culture. Upon entering the second torii gate, visitors are immediately struck by the sight of two large, conical mounds of white sand known as Tatesuna. These cones represent Mount Ko, the holy mountain where the deity Wakeikazuchi is said to have first descended. They serve as a focal point for purification rituals and are the origin of the small piles of salt often seen at the entrances of Japanese restaurants to ward off evil.
The shrine is perhaps most famous for the Aoi Matsuri (Hollyhock Festival) held every May 15th. As one of Kyoto’s three major festivals, it features a spectacular procession of over 500 people dressed in authentic Heian-period imperial court costumes. They march from the Imperial Palace to Shimogamo Shrine, and finally to Kamigamo Shrine, creating a living museum of dynastic Japan.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Kamigamo Shrine requires a slight detour from the central districts, but the reward is a tranquil atmosphere often devoid of the crushing crowds found elsewhere.
- Getting There: Take the Kyoto City Bus (Route 4) from Kyoto Station or the Karasuma Subway Line to Kitayama Station, followed by a short bus ride or a pleasant walk.
- Best Time to Visit: Mid-May is ideal for the Aoi Matsuri, but be prepared for crowds. Alternatively, early June brings the magical sight of fireflies along the shrine’s streams, and autumn offers stunning foliage without the density of tourists found in Arashiyama.
- Souvenirs: Look for the distinctive “Kaminari” (Thunder) amulets, which are popular among those working in aviation or electrical industries for protection.
- Nearby: After visiting, take a stroll through the Shake-machi neighborhood just outside the shrine, where the ancient priests’ earthen-walled houses still stand.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep mythological roots of this shrine and others in the region, the following historical texts provide the primary accounts of Japan’s age of gods:
- The Yamashiro Fudoki: An ancient record of the culture and geography of the Yamashiro province (southern Kyoto), which contains the specific legend of Tamayori-hime and the red arrow.
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest extant chronicle, detailing the creation myths and the lineage of the gods.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): The second-oldest book of classical Japanese history, offering a more formal historical account of the imperial line and their patron deities.