Shimogamo Shrine: Kyoto’s Sacred Forest & Ancient Beauty
While the Golden Pavilion and Fushimi Inari Taisha often dominate the typical Kyoto itinerary, there exists a sanctuary that predates the city itself—a place where the air feels older, heavier with history, and undeniably sacred. Shimogamo Shrine (Shimogamo-jinja), formally known as Kamo Mioya Shrine, is a UNESCO World Heritage site that offers a profound glimpse into the spiritual bedrock of Japan. Located at the lush confluence of the Kamo and Takano rivers, this sanctuary is not just a destination; it is a journey back to the very origins of Kyoto.
Origins: A Sanctuary Before the Capital
To understand Shimogamo Shrine, one must look further back than the establishment of Heian-kyo (modern-day Kyoto) in 794 AD. Archaeological excavations within the shrine grounds have unearthed pottery and ritual artifacts dating back to the Jomon period (roughly 14,000–300 BC), suggesting that this land was considered holy long before the first shrine structure was ever raised.
Along with its sister site, Kamigamo Shrine, Shimogamo served as the protector of the capital when the Imperial Court moved to Kyoto. For centuries, the Imperial family patronized these shrines, entrusting them with the spiritual safety of the nation. The shrine is one of the seventeen Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto designated by UNESCO, celebrated for its architectural purity and its preservation of the Nagare-zukuri style of shrine architecture.
Legend and Deities
The mythology surrounding Shimogamo Shrine is woven deeply into the fabric of Shinto belief, recorded in Japan’s oldest historical chronicles. The shrine is dedicated to two main deities: Kamo-no-Taketsunomi-no-Mikoto and his daughter, Tamayori-hime-no-Mikoto.
According to legend, Kamo-no-Taketsunomi-no-Mikoto is the incarnation of the Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow. In Japanese mythology, this divine bird guided the legendary first Emperor, Jimmu, through the treacherous mountains from Kumano to Yamato, allowing him to establish the Imperial line. Consequently, the shrine is often visited by those seeking safe travel or guidance in life’s path.
The legend of his daughter, Tamayori-hime, is equally mystical. It is said that while she was purifying herself in the stream, a red arrow floated down the river. She picked it up, and through its divine power, she conceived a son who became the thunder deity of the upper shrine, Kamigamo. This story highlights the shrine’s deep connection to water, purity, and fertility.
Modern Culture and Festivals
Despite its ancient roots, Shimogamo Shrine remains a vibrant center of living culture. It is perhaps most famous for the Aoi Matsuri (Hollyhock Festival), held every May. As one of Kyoto’s three major festivals, it involves a spectacular procession of over 500 people dressed in authentic Heian-period aristocratic court regalia, walking from the Imperial Palace to the Kamo shrines.
The shrine is also the spiritual home of Kemari, an ancient form of football played by courtiers. Several times a year, priests and practitioners dressed in colorful, billowing robes reenact this game, aiming to keep a deerskin ball in the air without letting it touch the ground. It is a mesmerizing blend of sport and ritual that transports spectators back a thousand years.
Furthermore, the Mitarashi Festival in summer invites visitors to wade barefoot into the cool waters of the Mitarashi stream to pray for good health, a practice that connects the modern visitor with the purification rituals of the ancients.
Traveler’s Tips: Making the Most of Your Visit
Visiting Shimogamo Shrine requires a slower pace to truly appreciate its atmosphere. Here are a few tips for the modern traveler:
- Walk Through Tadasu no Mori: Do not rush straight to the main hall. The approach leads through Tadasu no Mori (The Forest of Correction), a primeval forest that has survived for millennia. The towering trees block out the city noise, creating a natural tunnel of silence that prepares your spirit for the shrine.
- Visit Kawai Shrine: Located near the entrance of the forest is a sub-shrine called Kawai-jinja, dedicated to the guardian deity of women. It is famous for its unique votive tablets (ema) shaped like hand mirrors. Visitors purchase these and use their own makeup (or provided markers) to draw a beautiful face on the tablet, praying for both inner and outer beauty.
- Try the Mitarashi Dango: The famous Japanese sweet, Mitarashi Dango (skewered rice dumplings in sweet soy glaze), is said to have originated here, inspired by the bubbles of the shrine’s Mitarashi spring. Be sure to try them at tea houses nearby.
- Early Morning Visits: To experience the true mystical weight of the forest, arrive early in the morning (around 7:00 AM or 8:00 AM) before the tour groups arrive. The light filtering through the ancient trees is ethereal.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the mythology and history surrounding Shimogamo Shrine, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest chronicle, which details the lineage of the gods, including the Yatagarasu.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides further historical context on the establishment of the Imperial line and the significance of the Kamo deities.
- Tales of the Heike: While a war epic, it offers context on the aristocratic society that held the Kamo shrines in such high esteem.