Heian-kyo: The Capital of Peace and Tranquility
Before the neon lights of Tokyo or the bustling streets of Osaka defined modern Japan, there was Heian-kyo (平安京). Known literally as the “Capital of Peace and Tranquility,” this ancient metropolis was the imperial capital of Japan for over a thousand years, from 794 to 1868. Today, we know it as Kyoto, but beneath the modern pavement lies a grid of history, spirituality, and courtly romance that defined the very soul of Japanese culture.
For travelers and history buffs alike, understanding Heian-kyo is the key to unlocking the true depth of Kyoto. It was here that the samurai eventually rose to power, where the tea ceremony was refined, and where the world’s first novel was written. Join us as we peel back the layers of time to explore the city that shaped a nation.
The Origins: A City Built by the Stars
In 794 AD, Emperor Kammu moved the capital from Nagaoka-kyo to a new location in the Yamashiro Province. The decision was driven by a desire to escape the powerful Buddhist clergy in the former capital of Nara and to escape a series of bad omens and natural disasters.
Heian-kyo was not built randomly. It was a masterpiece of urban planning, modeled directly after Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an), the capital of Tang Dynasty China. The city was laid out in a strict grid pattern known as jōbō-sei. A central avenue, the massive Suzaku Avenue, ran north to south, culminating in the Imperial Palace at the north, effectively dividing the city into the Right Capital (Ukyo) and the Left Capital (Sakyo).
Feng Shui and the Four Guardians
The location of Heian-kyo was chosen based on the principles of Feng Shui (known as Shijin-so-o in Japanese). The site was protected by four mythical guardian beasts associated with the cardinal directions:
- The North (Genbu): The Black Tortoise, represented by Mount Funaoka.
- The East (Seiryu): The Azure Dragon, represented by the Kamo River.
- The South (Suzaku): The Vermilion Bird, represented by the Ogura Pond (now reclaimed land).
- The West (Byakko): The White Tiger, represented by the San’in road and western hills.
This spiritual fortification was believed to protect the Emperor and the nation from malevolent forces.
Legend: Demons and Onmyoji
While the grid layout provided order, the nights of Heian-kyo were believed to be ruled by chaos. The Heian period (794–1185) was an era steeped in superstition. It was believed that humans and spirits (yokai) coexisted, separated only by the twilight.
Legends tell of the Rashomon Gate, the southern entrance to the city, which became a notorious haunt for Oni (demons) and thieves. It serves as the setting for famous tales of samurai bravery and supernatural encounters.
To combat these spiritual threats, the imperial court relied on Onmyoji (Yin-Yang Masters). The most famous of these was Abe no Seimei. A legendary figure often compared to Merlin in Western folklore, Seimei used magic and divination to protect the capital from curses and vengeful spirits. Today, pop culture often depicts Heian-kyo as the stage for the Hyakki Yagyo, the “Night Parade of One Hundred Demons,” where spirits would march through the streets, killing anyone foolish enough to look at them.
Modern Culture: Echoes of the Court
The Heian period is often considered the classical golden age of Japanese culture. The aristocratic court developed a sophisticated culture of poetry, literature, and art that focused on mono no aware—the pathos of things, or a sensitivity to ephemera.
The Tale of Genji
Perhaps the greatest legacy of Heian-kyo is literary. Murasaki Shikibu, a lady-in-waiting at the imperial court, wrote The Tale of Genji in the early 11th century. Often cited as the world’s first novel, it provides a vivid, if romanticized, window into the lives of Heian aristocrats.
Festivals
The spirit of Heian-kyo lives on in Kyoto’s massive festivals. The Gion Matsuri, arguably Japan’s most famous festival, originated in 869 as a religious ritual to appease the gods during a pestilence outbreak in the capital. The floats used today are movable museums of artistry that date back centuries, continuing a tradition started by the desperate citizens of Heian-kyo.
Traveler’s Tips: Finding Heian-kyo Today
While wood rots and fires have claimed much of the original city, you can still walk through the history of Heian-kyo if you know where to look.
- Heian Jingu Shrine: Built in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the capital’s founding, this shrine is a 5/8 scale replica of the original Imperial Palace (Chodo-in). It is the closest you can get to seeing the architecture of 794 AD.
- Seimei Shrine: Dedicated to the wizard Abe no Seimei, this shrine is a pilgrimage site for those interested in the occult history of the capital. Look for the pentagram symbols, which are the crest of the shrine.
- Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho): While the current buildings date from 1855, the park retains the scale and atmosphere of the imperial center.
- To-ji Temple: One of the only surviving temples from the original Heian-kyo layout. Its five-story pagoda is a symbol of Kyoto and dates back to the spiritual protection plan of the city.
Travel Tip: When looking at a map of Kyoto, notice the grid. If you are walking in the central Nakagyo or Shimogyo wards, you are walking the exact lines drawn by Emperor Kammu’s planners over 1,200 years ago.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the history of Heian-kyo, the following texts are essential:
- The Tale of Genji (Genji Monogatari): For a cultural look at court life.
- The Pillow Book (Makura no Soshi): By Sei Shonagon, offering witty observations of Heian court life.
- Shoku Nihongi: An imperial history text that covers the period leading up to and including the move to Heian-kyo.
- Konjaku Monogatarishu: A collection of tales from the late Heian period, featuring many supernatural legends.