Izumo Taisha: The Spiritual Heart of Ancient Japan
Deep in the misty lands of Shimane Prefecture lies a sanctuary that predates recorded history. Izumo Taisha (Izumo Grand Shrine) is not merely a tourist destination; it is a portal to the mythological origins of Japan. Standing amidst towering pine trees and ancient architecture, one feels a profound connection to the spiritual roots of the country. Unlike the polished vermillion of Kyoto’s shrines, Izumo exudes a raw, archaic power, fitting for its status as one of Japan’s most ancient and important Shinto sites.
While Tokyo rushes toward the future, Izumo remains the eternal guardian of the unseen world. It is the realm of shadows and spirits, dedicated to the deity of relationships and happiness. Whether you are a history buff, a spiritual seeker, or a traveler looking for the road less traveled, a pilgrimage to Izumo Taisha is an unforgettable journey into the soul of Japan.
Origins: A Shrine Built for the Heavens
Determining the exact age of Izumo Taisha is impossible, as its existence likely predates Japan’s written history. It is mentioned in the oldest chronicles of Japan, the Kojiki (712 AD) and the Nihon Shoki (720 AD), describing a structure so massive it seemed to pierce the clouds. Archaeological discoveries have supported these ancient texts; massive pillars discovered on the grounds suggest that the main hall was once suspended high in the air on stilts, reaching heights of approximately 48 meters—taller than the 15-story buildings of today.
The current main hall (Honden), built in 1744, stands at 24 meters and is a designated National Treasure. It represents the Taisha-zukuri architectural style, the oldest form of shrine architecture in Japan. This style is characterized by its gabled roofs, unpainted cypress wood, and a distinct lack of decorative flair, emphasizing purity and antiquity. The sheer scale of the complex serves as a testament to the political and spiritual power the Izumo region held in ancient times, rivaling the Yamato court in the east.
Legend: The God of Connections and the Land Transfer
To understand Izumo Taisha, one must understand the deity enshrined within: Okuninushi-no-Okami. In Japanese mythology, Okuninushi was the creator and ruler of the terrestrial world (Japan). However, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu, wishing for her descendants to rule the land, sent envoys to negotiate a transfer of power.
In a myth known as Kuniyuzuri (Transfer of the Land), Okuninushi agreed to abdicate his physical control over Japan on one condition: that a palace be built for him matching the grandeur of the heavenly palace, where he would rule over the realm of the unseen—spirits, magic, and human fate. Amaterasu accepted, and thus, Izumo Taisha was constructed.
This distinction is crucial. While the Emperor (descended from Amaterasu) rules the visible world of politics and daily life, Okuninushi rules the invisible threads that bind us. This is why he is revered as the god of En-musubi (marriage and relationships). He does not just preside over romantic love, but over all connections between people, aiming to bring happiness and good fortune through these bonds.
Modern Culture: The Month of the Gods
One of the most fascinating cultural aspects of Izumo Taisha is its unique calendar. In the traditional lunar calendar, the tenth month is known throughout Japan as Kannazuki (The Month of No Gods). This is because it is believed that all the eight million Kami (deities) of Japan leave their local shrines to travel to one specific place: Izumo.
Consequently, in the Izumo region, this same month is called Kamiarizuki (The Month of the Gods). It is believed that the deities gather at Izumo Taisha to hold a divine conference, discussing the fate of humanity and deciding who will cross paths in the coming year. During this period, usually falling in November, the shrine is bustling with festivals and pilgrims praying for fortuitous encounters.
Another unique modern practice at Izumo is the method of prayer. At most Shinto shrines, the custom is “two bows, two claps, one bow.” However, at Izumo Taisha, the tradition is “two bows, four claps, one bow.” The four claps (shihaku) signify a prayer for happiness (shiawase), as the word for “four” combines to sound like the word for happiness, representing harmony for the four seasons.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Land of Myths
Visiting Izumo requires a bit of planning, as it is located on the Sea of Japan side of the country, away from the famous Golden Route.
- Access: The easiest access is via Izumo Enmusubi Airport or Yonago Kitaro Airport. Alternatively, the Sunrise Izumo overnight sleeper train from Tokyo offers a nostalgic and scenic journey. Once in the area, the Ichibata Electric Railway provides charming access to the shrine.
- The Giant Rope: Do not miss the Kaguraden (Sacred Dance Hall), located to the west of the main complex. It features Japan’s largest shimenawa (sacred straw rope), weighing over 5 tons. Standing beneath it is a humbling experience.
- Culinary Delights: Izumo is famous for Izumo Soba. Unlike standard soba, the noodles here are darker and ground with the husk, offering a stronger aroma. It is traditionally served in three stacked lacquerware tiers known as Warigo.
- Inasa Beach: Located about 1 kilometer west of the shrine, this beach is where the gods are said to arrive during Kamiarizuki. It features a picturesque shrine perched atop a large rock and offers stunning sunsets.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the mythology and history surrounding Izumo Taisha, the following classical texts and resources are recommended:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): The oldest extant chronicle in Japan, detailing the creation myths and the story of Okuninushi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers alternative versions of the myths found in the Kojiki and provides historical context for the imperial court’s relationship with Izumo.
- Izumo no Kuni Fudoki: An ancient gazetteer from 733 AD specifically describing the culture, geography, and legends of the Izumo province, offering a unique local perspective distinct from the central government’s narrative.