Naiku (Inner Shrine): The Spiritual Heart of Japan
Deep within the ancient cedar forests of Mie Prefecture lies a place where the air itself feels different—cleaner, heavier with history, and charged with a silent reverence. This is Naiku, the Inner Shrine of the Ise Grand Shrine (Ise Jingu). While Ise Jingu comprises 125 distinct shrines, Naiku is its crown jewel, regarded as the most sacred site in the Shinto religion. It is dedicated to Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun Goddess and the mythological ancestress of the Imperial Family.
For travelers seeking to understand the spiritual bedrock of Japanese culture, a pilgrimage to Naiku is not merely a sightseeing excursion; it is a journey back to the very origins of the nation.
Origins: A Tradition of Eternal Renewal
Naiku, officially known as Kotai Jingu, is believed to have been established roughly 2,000 years ago during the reign of Emperor Suinin. Unlike Western cathedrals built of stone to withstand the centuries, Naiku is constructed of unpainted Japanese cypress and thatched reeds. Its architectural style, Shinmei-zukuri, represents the oldest form of shrine architecture in Japan, predating the arrival of Buddhism.
Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of Naiku’s history is the tradition of Shikinen Sengu. Every 20 years, the main sanctuary and the Uji Bridge are completely rebuilt on an adjacent lot. The deity is then ceremonially transferred to the new building. This ritual has continued for over 1,300 years (with brief interruptions during wartime). This cyclical rebuilding ensures that while the materials are always new, the form remains eternally ancient, embodying the Shinto concept of Tokowaka—being eternally young and energetic.
The Legend: The Wandering Princess and the Sun Goddess
The establishment of Naiku is steeped in one of Japan’s most poignant myths, recorded in ancient chronicles. According to legend, Amaterasu Omikami originally resided within the Imperial Palace. However, during the reign of the 10th Emperor, it was decided that the power of the deity was too great to be housed with mortals.
The Journey of Yamatohime-no-mikoto
The Emperor’s daughter, Princess Yamatohime-no-mikoto, was tasked with finding a permanent sanctuary for the Sun Goddess. She wandered the land for years, carrying the Yata-no-Kagami (the Sacred Mirror), which serves as the shintai (body of the kami).
Eventually, she arrived in the province of Ise. It is said that Amaterasu spoke to the princess, proclaiming Ise to be a secluded and pleasant land where the waves from the eternal world crash. Following this divine instruction, Yamatohime established the Inner Shrine on the banks of the Isuzu River. To this day, the Sacred Mirror—one of the three Imperial Regalia of Japan—is believed to be housed deep within the main hall of Naiku, hidden from human eyes.
Modern Culture: The Soul of the Nation
In contemporary Japan, Naiku remains the spiritual center of the country. It is not a relic of the past but a living institution. The High Priestess of Ise Jingu has traditionally been a member of the Imperial Family, maintaining a direct line to the shrine’s origins.
The shrine plays a pivotal role in the life of the Prime Minister and the Emperor, who visit to report significant events to the ancestors. For the general public, visiting Ise is known as O-Ise-Mairi. While in the Edo period this was a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage, today millions flock here annually, especially during the New Year (Hatsumode) to pray for peace and prosperity. The atmosphere is solemn yet welcoming, contrasting sharply with the neon lights of Tokyo.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting Naiku
Visiting Naiku requires adherence to specific protocols to respect the sanctity of the grounds. Here is how to navigate your visit like a local.
1. The Route Matters
Tradition dictates that you should visit Geku (The Outer Shrine) before proceeding to Naiku (The Inner Shrine). The two are located several kilometers apart, connected by bus.
2. Crossing the Uji Bridge
The Uji Bridge marks the transition from the profane world to the sacred world. When crossing, walk on the right side (at Geku, you walk on the left). Stop and bow before crossing and after exiting.
3. Purification
Before approaching the main sanctuary, stop at the Mitarashi, a stone-paved area along the Isuzu River. Unlike the standard water basins at other shrines, here pilgrims wash their hands and rinse their mouths directly in the crystal-clear waters of the river.
4. Photography Rules
You may take photos in most areas of the shrine grounds, but photography is strictly prohibited directly in front of the main sanctuary (Shogu). You must stop at the bottom of the stone steps; ascending the steps with a camera is considered disrespectful.
5. Oharaimachi and Okage Yokocho
After your spiritual visit, explore the bustling traditional street just outside the shrine entrance. It is famous for Akafuku Mochi (red bean paste over rice cake) and Ise Udon (thick noodles in dark sauce). It captures the Edo-period atmosphere of pilgrims celebrating their journey.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the mythological and historical foundations of Naiku, the following classical texts provide essential context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest extant chronicle (712 AD), detailing the age of the gods.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, this text provides a more detailed account of Yamatohime-no-mikoto’s journey to Ise.
- Jingu Administration Office: Official publications regarding the Shikinen Sengu rituals.