Shichi-Go-San: Celebrating Growth in Japan
If you travel to Japan in mid-November, you will likely encounter one of the country’s most adorable spectacles. Shrines across the nation fill with families dressed in their finest traditional wear, accompanying small children in vibrant kimonos and miniature hakama trousers. This is Shichi-Go-San (literally “Seven-Five-Three”), a traditional rite of passage celebrating the healthy growth of young children.
While not a national public holiday, it is a deeply significant cultural event that bridges the gap between ancient survival rituals and modern family photography sessions. For the cultural traveler, witnessing Shichi-Go-San offers a heartwarming glimpse into how Japan honors childhood and family lineage.
The Origins: Survival and Samurai Rites
To understand Shichi-Go-San, one must look back to a time when infant mortality rates in Japan were incredibly high. There was a somber saying in old Japan: “Until the age of seven, children belong to the gods” (Nana-sai made wa kami no uchi). This meant that a child’s existence was precarious, and they teetered on the boundary between the spirit world and the human world until their seventh year.
The modern festival is an amalgamation of three distinct rites of passage that evolved among the court nobles and the samurai class during the Heian and Edo periods:
- Kamioki (Age 3): Historically, both boys and girls had their heads shaved until age three to prevent lice and promote healthier hair growth. The Kamioki ceremony marked the point where they were finally allowed to grow out their hair.
- Hakamagi (Age 5): This was the rite for boys (and traditionally samurai lineage) to wear hakama—traditional loose-legged trousers—for the first time, symbolizing their transition into becoming a distinct member of society.
- Obitoki (Age 7): Girls aged seven transitioned from using simple cords to tie their kimonos to wearing the stiff, broad obi sash used by adult women. This marked their first step toward womanhood.
Over centuries, these separate aristocratic rituals merged into the unified celebration we see today, embraced by the common people during the Meiji era.
Legend and Symbolism: Why November 15th?
Shichi-Go-San is officially celebrated on November 15th, though families now visit shrines throughout the month to avoid crowds. The specific date is rooted in a mix of astrology and shogun legends.
One popular legend attributes the date to Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, the fifth Shogun of the Edo period. It is said that he conducted a prayer ceremony for the health of his sickly son, Tokumatsu, on November 15th. The boy grew up healthy, and the date became auspicious for child-rearing.
Numerology also plays a role. In East Asian culture, odd numbers (like 3, 5, and 7) are considered lucky (yang numbers). Furthermore, the sum of 3, 5, and 7 is 15.
The Legend of Chitose Ame
No Shichi-Go-San outfit is complete without a long, thin bag containing Chitose Ame (“Thousand-Year Candy”). This long, red and white stick candy symbolizes longevity. The bag itself is often decorated with turtles and cranes—animals that, in Japanese folklore, live for 10,000 and 1,000 years, respectively. Parents buy this candy in hopes that their children will live long, tenacious lives.
Modern Culture: A Photogenic Affair
Today, Shichi-Go-San is less about superstition and more about family heritage and creating memories. While the spiritual aspect of visiting the Ujigami (local guardian deity) remains central, the commercial aspect has grown significantly.
Japanese photo studios are booked months in advance. Families rent elaborate kimonos, often costing hundreds of dollars, and hire professional photographers to capture the day. It is common to see a mix of traditional fashion and modern trends, with some parents opting for Western-style formal suits and dresses for the shrine visit, reserving the kimono solely for the photo studio.
Despite the modernization, the core sentiment remains: gratitude for the child’s life and prayers for their future success.
Traveler’s Tips for Viewing the Festival
If you wish to observe this beautiful tradition, here are a few tips to do so respectfully:
- Timing: While the official date is November 15, the entire month of November (especially weekends) will see shrines busy with families.
- Best Locations: Large shrines like Meiji Jingu in Tokyo, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu in Kamakura, and Heian Jingu in Kyoto offer spectacular backdrops. However, smaller neighborhood shrines often provide a more intimate, local atmosphere.
- Etiquette: This is a private family event. While the children are photogenic, always ask permission before taking close-up photos of strangers. Generally, families are proud and happy to oblige, but courtesy is paramount.
- Quiet Observation: Remember that prayers are being offered. Keep your voice low near the main hall (Haiden) and avoid blocking the path of families processing toward the altar.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical roots of Japanese rites of passage and Shinto beliefs, the following texts and eras provide context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While Shichi-Go-San as a specific set of rites appears later in history, these ancient texts establish the fundamental Shinto concepts of Ujigami (guardian deities) and the spiritual significance of childhood purity.
- Heian Period Literature: Works like The Tale of Genji depict the elaborate court rituals regarding coming-of-age ceremonies (Genpuku and Mogi), which are the aristocratic ancestors of the modern Shichi-Go-San rites.
- Edo Period Almanacs: Various historical records from the Edo period document the popularization of the specific 3-5-7 customs spreading from the samurai class to the merchant class (Chonin).