The Kasa: Unveiling the Spirit of the Japanese Pilgrim Hat
When one imagines the mystical trails of ancient Japan, a specific silhouette often comes to mind: a solitary figure dressed in white, walking stick in hand, crowned by a conical woven hat. This hat is the Kasa (specifically the sugegasa or henro-gasa), the quintessential symbol of the Japanese pilgrim. Far more than a mere shield against the sun and rain, the Kasa carries centuries of religious weight, serving as a spiritual compass for those undertaking sacred journeys like the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.
Origins: From Field to Faith
The word Kasa is a broad term in Japanese that covers umbrellas and various types of hats. Historically, the conical straw or sedge hat was a utilitarian item born of necessity. In the humid, unpredictable climate of the Japanese archipelago, farmers and travelers needed durable, breathable protection. Crafted from dried sedge (suge) or bamboo strips, these hats were lightweight and designed to let rain run off quickly while allowing air to circulate around the head.
However, as Buddhism flourished in Japan during the Heian period (794–1185), the Kasa transcended its agricultural roots. It became a standard part of the monastic uniform. For the wandering monk, who owned few earthly possessions, the hat was his roof. It symbolized a life of humility and detachment from worldly vanity. Over time, specific shapes and inscriptions distinguished the lay traveler from the serious ascetic, cementing the Kasa’s status as a religious artifact.
Legend: The Hat as a Portable Temple
The most profound lore surrounding the pilgrim’s hat is connected to Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism and the central figure of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. According to tradition, the hat is not just clothing; it is a portable mandala—a sacred space that the pilgrim carries with them.
On a traditional Henro-gasa (Shikoku pilgrim hat), you will find Sanskrit characters written on the cypress or sedge. These represent the four cardinal points of the Buddhist universe. Furthermore, there is a legendary inscription often written on the hat: “Dōgyō Ninin” (同行二人). This translates to “Two Traveling Together.”
The legend suggests that no pilgrim walks alone. Even if you are physically solitary on the trail, the spirit of Kobo Daishi walks beside you, guiding your steps and sharing your burden. In older, more somber traditions, the hat was also viewed as a symbolic coffin. Pilgrims in ancient times faced death on the treacherous mountain passes; if they succumbed to the elements, the Kasa would be placed over their face, serving as their final shelter. Thus, wearing the hat was an acceptance of the impermanence of life.
Modern Culture: The Henro Experience
Today, the Kasa remains a vibrant part of Japanese cultural heritage, particularly on the island of Shikoku. Modern pilgrims, known as Henro, still don the hat to signal their intent. In a modern society driven by technology and speed, the sight of a Kasa-wearing pilgrim is a nostalgic reminder of a slower, more deliberate existence.
Culturally, the hat has also influenced Japanese aesthetics and arts, appearing frequently in ukiyo-e woodblock prints and samurai cinema (jidai-geki). It evokes the romance of the wandering ronin or the devoted monk.
For international travelers, the Kasa has become a coveted souvenir. However, distinct from mass-produced tourist trinkets, a genuine pilgrim hat is usually purchased at the first temple of a pilgrimage route. It serves as a “passport” of sorts; locals who see someone wearing a Kasa often treat them with increased kindness, sometimes offering osettai (gifts of food or drink) to support their journey.
Traveler’s Tips: Buying and Wearing a Kasa
If you plan to hike the Kumano Kodo or the Shikoku Pilgrimage and wish to wear a Kasa, here is what you need to know to do so respectfully:
- Where to Buy: Purchase your hat at a temple supply shop (butsugu-ya) or at Temple 1 (Ryozenji) in Shikoku. They often come with a plastic cover for rain and a padded ring (atama-dai) to make it comfortable to wear.
- How to Wear: The hat should sit level on your head. There is usually a cotton chin strap. Ensure the writing (Sanskrit characters) is facing the correct direction—usually, the main Sanskrit character (bonji) faces the front.
- Etiquette: The Kasa is considered a sacred object. You should remove it when entering a temple’s main hall, eating meals, or entering someone’s home. Never place it on the floor; place it on a table or hang it up. Treat it with the same respect you would a religious text.
- Practicality: It is surprisingly effective. It acts as a personal umbrella, keeping your shoulders dry in light rain and preventing sunburn on the neck better than most modern caps.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical and spiritual roots of Japanese travel attire and pilgrimage, the following texts and resources are recommended:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While the specific Henro hat appears later, this ancient text provides the foundation for understanding the Shinto elements of nature worship that permeate Japanese pilgrimage.
- Kobo Daishi’s Writings: Various translations of Kukai’s works offer insight into the Dōgyō Ninin philosophy.
- Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler: A classic English text detailing the history of the Shikoku route.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides further context on the early structure of Japanese society and the role of travel.