The Izumo Pilgrimage: A Journey to the Land of the Gods
While the bustling neon streets of Tokyo and the manicured temples of Kyoto often dominate travel itineraries, the true spiritual heart of Japan beats in a quieter, more ancient rhythm on the coast of the Sea of Japan. This is Izumo, home to the Izumo Taisha (Izumo Grand Shrine), and the destination of the historic Izumo Pilgrimage (Izumo Mairi). Unlike other religious sites, Izumo is not merely a place of worship; it is the mythological gathering place of the gods themselves.
Introduction to the Spiritual Realm
For centuries, pilgrims have traveled the treacherous roads to the San’in region of Shimane Prefecture to perform Izumo Mairi. Unlike the Ise Mairi (pilgrimage to Ise Jingu), which honors the sun goddess Amaterasu and the imperial line, the pilgrimage to Izumo honors the unseen, the spiritual, and the connections between people. Known as the “Land of the Gods,” this region offers a mystical atmosphere where history and mythology are indistinguishable from one another.
Visiting Izumo is more than sightseeing; it is an act of seeking En-musubi—the tying of knots between people. While popularly associated with romance and marriage, this concept encompasses all relationships, including friendships and business fortunes.
Origins of the Shrine
Izumo Taisha is widely considered one of the oldest and most important shrines in Japan. Its existence predates accurate historical records, hovering in the mist of prehistory. Architectural studies and archeological findings suggest that the main sanctuary was once a towering structure, suspended high above the ground on massive pillars, reaching toward the heavens.
The shrine represents the Taisha-zukuri architectural style, the oldest form of shrine architecture in Japan. The current main hall, built in 1744, is a designated National Treasure, but the site itself has been a center of worship for millennia. The sheer scale of the Shimenawa (sacred straw rope) adorning the Kaguraden (Sacred Dance Hall)—one of the largest in Japan—serves as a physical reminder of the weight of history present here.
The Legend of Okuninushi
To understand the Izumo Pilgrimage, one must understand the deity enshrined there: Okuninushi-no-Okami. According to Japan’s oldest chronicles, Okuninushi was the ruler of the terrestrial world (Japan).
The central myth involves the Kuniyuzuri (Transfer of the Land). The Sun Goddess, Amaterasu, wished for her descendants to rule the physical land of Japan. After negotiations, Okuninushi agreed to cede control of the visible world to the Imperial line. In exchange, he was granted dominion over the invisible world—the realm of spirits, magic, and human fate. Amaterasu ordered a magnificent palace to be built for him, which became Izumo Taisha.
This division of power established a dualism in Japanese Shinto: Ise represents the visible, political, and sun-lit world, while Izumo represents the invisible, spiritual, and mysterious world of shadows and souls.
Modern Culture: The Month of the Gods
In modern Japan, the cultural significance of Izumo remains potent, particularly during the tenth month of the lunar calendar (usually falling in October or November).
Throughout the rest of Japan, this month is known as Kannazuki (The Month Without Gods), because the eight million deities of the Shinto pantheon leave their local shrines. However, in Izumo, this month is called Kamiarizuki (The Month With Gods). It is believed that all the deities congregate at Izumo Taisha during this time to hold a divine conference, deciding the fate of humanity and whom individuals will meet in the coming year.
During this period, the shrine holds the Kamiari Festival. Crowds of visitors flock to the area to pray while the gods are in session, hoping to influence their destiny. The atmosphere is electric, blending solemn ritual with a festive celebration of local heritage.
Traveler’s Tips for the Pilgrimage
If you plan to undertake the Izumo Pilgrimage, there are specific customs and logistics to keep in mind to ensure a respectful and fulfilling visit.
1. The Unique Prayer Etiquette
At most Shinto shrines in Japan, the standard etiquette is “Two Bows, Two Claps, One Bow.” However, Izumo Taisha has a unique tradition: Two Bows, Four Claps, One Bow. The four claps are said to represent the four seasons or imply a deeper level of sincerity and prayer for harmony (Shiawase).
2. Getting There
The region is somewhat remote. The most convenient access is via Izumo Enmusubi Airport, which connects to major hubs like Tokyo and Osaka. Alternatively, the Sunrise Izumo overnight sleeper train from Tokyo provides a nostalgic and scenic journey, perfectly setting the mood for a pilgrimage.
3. Culinary Pilgrimage: Izumo Soba
No visit is complete without tasting Izumo Soba. Unlike standard buckwheat noodles, these are made by grinding the buckwheat seeds with the husks on, resulting in a darker color and stronger aroma. They are traditionally served in Warigo (three stacked lacquerware tiers).
4. Beyond the Main Shrine
Don’t stop at the main hall. Visit Inasa-no-Hama Beach, a short bus ride away. This is where the gods are said to arrive during Kamiarizuki. Collecting sand from this beach and exchanging it at the Soga-no-Yashiro shrine (behind the main Izumo Taisha hall) is a popular ritual for protection.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the mythology and history surrounding the Izumo Pilgrimage, the following ancient texts provide the foundational narratives:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Completed in 712 AD, this text contains the detailed cycle of myths regarding Okuninushi and the creation of the Japanese archipelago.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, this text offers alternative versions of the Kuniyuzuri myth and the establishment of the Izumo shrine.
- Izumo no Kuni Fudoki: An ancient record of the culture and geography of the Izumo province, offering a rare local perspective distinct from the imperial history written in Nara.