Unveiling the Abura-sumashi: The Smug Spirit of the Mountain Pass
Japan’s folklore is populated by an endless parade of yokai—supernatural creatures that range from the terrifying to the mischievous. Among the vast pantheon of spirits popularized by manga legends like Shigeru Mizuki, one creature stands out not for its ferocity, but for its strange, smug demeanor and peculiar backstory: the Abura-sumashi (油すまし).
While he may look like a squat, stone-headed goblin in a straw raincoat, the Abura-sumashi carries a cultural weight connected to the history of oil production in the Amakusa region of Kumamoto Prefecture. For travelers and folklore enthusiasts, hunting for the history of this “Oil Presser” offers a fascinating glimpse into rural Japan’s past.
The Origins: A Ghost of the Oil Trade
To understand the Abura-sumashi, one must first look at his name. In Japanese, Abura means “oil,” and Sumashi comes from sumasu, which can mean to look indifferent, serious, or composed. It can also imply the act of squeezing or pressing. Therefore, the name is often interpreted as “The Oil Presser” or “The Smug Oil Spirit.”
The Historical Context
This yokai is indigenous to the Amakusa islands in Kumamoto Prefecture. historically, this region was known for the production of tea seed oil and camellia oil. Pressing oil was arduous labor, and the commodity was precious.
Local folklore suggests that the Abura-sumashi is the restless spirit of an oil thief. In the Edo period, stealing oil—a valuable resource for lighting and cooking—was considered a serious crime. Others believe the spirit represents an oil presser who died while working and remains attached to the tools of his trade. He is typically depicted wearing a mino (a traditional straw raincoat), suggesting a traveler or a laborer wandering the mountain passes.
The Legend of Kusazumigoe Pass
Unlike widespread yokai like the Kappa or Kitsune, the Abura-sumashi is famous primarily for a single, specific interaction recorded in local legends. The story is set on the Kusazumigoe Pass in Amakusa.
The Surprise Encounter
According to the legend, an old woman was walking over the mountain pass with her grandchild. It was a quiet, eerie day. To pass the time or perhaps to spook the child, the grandmother pointed to a specific spot on the trail and whispered, “You know, a long time ago, an Abura-sumashi used to live right here.”
Before the words had fully left her lips, a deep, rustling voice echoed from the bushes:
“I am still here!”
The grandmother and child, terrified that the legend had spoken back, fled the mountain. This story encapsulates the nature of the Abura-sumashi; he is not necessarily violent, but he demands acknowledgment. He is a genius loci—a spirit of the place—lingering in the areas where oil was once transported.
Modern Culture and Media
If the Abura-sumashi looks familiar to you, it is likely due to the work of Shigeru Mizuki, the legendary manga artist and historian who created GeGeGe no Kitaro.
Mizuki brought the Abura-sumashi out of obscurity. In the manga and anime, he is depicted as a squat figure with a large, potato-like head and a perpetually smug or surprised expression. He often acts as a wise, albeit strange, advisor to the main characters. Because of this characterization, he has become a beloved figure in Japan’s “Yokai Boom,” appearing in video games, toys, and summer festivals.
Traveler’s Tips: Finding the Spirit
For those looking to walk the path of the Abura-sumashi, your journey will take you to Kyushu or the coast of the Sea of Japan.
1. Amakusa, Kumamoto Prefecture
The true home of the spirit. Travelers can visit the actual Kusazumigoe Pass (often accessible via hiking trails in the Amakusa area). There is a stone statue of the Abura-sumashi erected near the site of the legend, marking the spot where he “still lives.”
2. Sakaiminato, Tottori Prefecture
This is the hometown of Shigeru Mizuki. The city features the famous Mizuki Shigeru Road, a street lined with over 170 bronze statues of yokai. Here, you can find a bronze Abura-sumashi. It is a popular photo spot—visitors often try to mimic his stoic, smug expression.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Japanese folklore and the Abura-sumashi, consider exploring the following resources:
- The Encyclopedia of Yokai by Shigeru Mizuki – The definitive visual guide that popularized the modern look of the Abura-sumashi.
- Amakusa Folklore Records – Local historical documents from Kumamoto Prefecture detailing the oral traditions of the Kusazumigoe Pass.
- Yanagita Kunio’s Tono Monogatari – While focusing on Tono, this text provides essential context for understanding how nature spirits function in Japanese rural history.
- Nihon Shoki & Kojiki – While the Abura-sumashi is a later folk creation and not present in these ancient texts, reading them provides the foundational animistic worldview necessary to understand why Japanese culture accepts the existence of spirits in everything from mountains to oil bottles.