The Three Wise Monkeys of Nikko: A Guide to the San-zaru
When travelers dream of Japan, images of neon-lit Tokyo or the serene temples of Kyoto often come to mind. However, nestled in the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture lies one of Japan’s most ornate and spiritual destinations: Nikkō Tōshō-gū Shrine. While the shrine is the final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, many visitors flock here to see a much smaller, yet globally recognized carving: the Three Wise Monkeys.
Known in Japanese as the San-zaru (three monkeys), these carvings of “See No Evil, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil” are far more than a simple proverb. They are a window into Edo-period philosophy, artistic mastery, and the complex spiritual tapestry of Japan.
Introduction
Perched above the door of the Sacred Stable (Shinkyū) within the Tōshō-gū complex, the Three Wise Monkeys—Mizaru (covering eyes), Kikazaru (covering ears), and Iwazaru (covering mouth)—watch over the shrine’s white horses. Carved by the legendary Hidari Jingorō in the 17th century, these figures have transcended their wooden medium to become global icons.
However, most visitors are unaware that these three iconic figures are actually part of a larger narrative. They represent just one panel in a series of eight that depicts the arc of human life. This article explores the deep history, cultural significance, and practical tips for visiting this UNESCO World Heritage masterpiece.
Origins: From Silk Road to Shinto Shrine
The maxim “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil” did not originate in Japan. Historians trace the philosophy back to The Analects of Confucius in ancient China (circa 4th to 2nd century BC). The original teaching advised that one should not look, listen, speak, or move contrary to propriety.
The motif arrived in Japan around the 8th century, likely through Tendai Buddhism. In Japanese, the concept creates a clever pun. The word for monkey is saru, but when combined with other words, it phonetically changes to zaru, which sounds identical to the negative verb suffix used to say “not do” something. Thus, mizaru (don’t look), kikazaru (don’t listen), and iwazaru (don’t speak) naturally invoke the image of monkeys.
The Koshin Faith
The imagery is also deeply tied to the Koshin folk faith. Devotees believed that three worms living inside the human body would ascend to heaven every 60 days to report a person’s sins to the deity Ten-Tei. To prevent this, believers would stay awake all night and worship deities often depicted with monkeys, who were thought to block the worms’ communication—literally seeing, hearing, and speaking no evil to protect the human host.
Legend: The Eight Panels of Life
While the three monkeys are the celebrities, they are part of a broader story carved across the lintel of the Sacred Stable. These eight panels serve as a caricature of human existence, meant to guide the spirits of the horses housed within and the humans walking by.
- Mother and Child: A mother monkey looks into the distance while her baby looks at her. This represents the innocence of birth and parental future-gazing.
- The Three Wise Monkeys: This famous panel represents childhood. The philosophy is that children should be shielded from the bad things in the world to grow up with a pure character.
- Independence: A solitary monkey sits while looking ready to stand. This symbolizes the transition into adulthood and independence.
- Ambition: Two monkeys looking upward, representing the aspirations of youth.
- Failure and Comfort: One monkey looks down into a cliff (failure), while a friend comforts him. This teaches the importance of companionship during hard times.
- Romance: A monkey sits contemplating whilst looking at a partner, symbolizing marriage and courtship.
- Turbulence: A scene depicting the struggles of married life and facing the literal waves of destiny.
- Pregnancy: The final panel shows a pregnant monkey, bringing the story full circle back to the first panel, symbolizing the continuity of life.
Modern Culture and Global Impact
In the modern era, the Nikkō monkeys have been immortalized in digital culture via the Unicode standard— (See-No-Evil), (Hear-No-Evil), and (Speak-No-Evil). They appear in movies, literature, and political cartoons worldwide.
Interestingly, the interpretation has shifted in the West. While the original Eastern meaning is a proactive approach to moral purity (shielding oneself from evil thoughts), the Western interpretation often leans toward “turning a blind eye” or feigning ignorance to misconduct. Despite these diverging interpretations, the visual motif remains one of the most recognizable symbols in human history.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Nikkō Tōshō-gū requires a bit of planning to avoid the crowds and fully appreciate the art.
How to Get There
The most convenient route is via the Tobu Skytree Line from Asakusa Station in Tokyo. The “Spacia X” or “Revaty” limited express trains take just under two hours. From Tobu-Nikko station, take a World Heritage Loop bus to the shrine entrance.
Best Time to Visit
- Season: Autumn (late October to early November) provides a stunning backdrop of fiery red maple leaves (Koyo), though it is the busiest season. Spring is equally beautiful with cherry blossoms.
- Time of Day: Arrive as soon as the gates open (usually 8:00 AM or 9:00 AM depending on the season). The Sacred Stable is near the entrance, and you can view the monkeys without obstruction if you are an early bird.
What to Look For
The monkeys are located on an unpainted wooden building (the stable). This contrasts sharply with the gold-leaf extravagance of the Yomeimon Gate nearby. Look up! The carvings are on the upper lintel, not at eye level.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the spiritual landscape that created Nikkō Tōshō-gū, the following texts and historical contexts are recommended:
- The Analects of Confucius: For the philosophical root of the “Three Wise Monkeys” maxim.
- Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) & Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While these texts do not mention the three monkeys directly, they are essential for understanding the Shinto cosmology and the deification of ancestors (like Tokugawa Ieyasu) that defines Tōshō-gū.
- Tokugawa Ieyasu and the Founding of the Edo Shogunate: Historical biographies of the Shogun provide context on why Nikkō was built with such grandeur.
By understanding the eight-panel journey of life rather than just the single image of the three monkeys, your visit to Nikkō will transform from a simple sightseeing trip into a profound cultural experience.