The Sacred Silhouette: Exploring the Twin Peaks of Mt. Tsukuba
When travelers think of Japanese mountains, the solitary, snow-capped cone of Mount Fuji usually dominates the imagination. However, looking east from Tokyo across the vast Kanto Plain, a different silhouette captures the eye—a purple mountain with two distinct summits. This is Mount Tsukuba (Tsukuba-san), one of Japan’s most storied and accessible peaks.
Unlike the solitary majesty of Fuji, Tsukuba is defined by duality. It is famous for its twin peaks, Mt. Nantai and Mt. Nyotai, representing the male and female deities of Japanese creation mythology. For centuries, this mountain has been a pilgrimage site for those seeking love, marital harmony, and stunning vistas. In this guide, we will journey through the geological origins, the deep-seated legends, and the modern hiking culture that make the “Purple Mountain” a must-visit destination.
Origins: A Geological and Historical Anomaly
Mount Tsukuba holds a unique position in Japan’s geography. While the majority of Japan’s famous mountains are volcanic, Tsukuba consists primarily of non-volcanic rocks such as gabbro and granite. This geological makeup is responsible for the massive, strangely shaped boulders scattered along its trails, many of which have been worshipped as sacred sites for millennia.
Rising to 877 meters (2,877 feet) at its highest point, it is the lowest mountain among the Nihon Hyakumeizan (100 Famous Japanese Mountains). Despite its relatively short stature, its isolation on the Kanto Plain allows for unobstructed views that rival much higher alpine peaks. Historically, the mountain was so culturally significant that an old saying compares it directly to Japan’s highest peak: “Nishi no Fuji, Higashi no Tsukuba” (Fuji in the West, Tsukuba in the East).
Legend: The Tale of Two Peaks
The dual nature of Mount Tsukuba is not just physical; it is spiritual. The two peaks are named Mt. Nantai (Male Body, 871m) and Mt. Nyotai (Female Body, 877m). They enshrine Izanagi and Izanami, the brother-and-sister creator gods of Shinto mythology who stirred the oceans to create the Japanese islands.
The Myth of Hospitality
According to the Hitachi no Kuni Fudoki, an ancient record of provincial culture and geography, a divine ancestor visited Mount Fuji and asked for a place to stay for the night. The deity of Fuji, proud and arrogant, refused the guest, claiming to be too busy preparing for the harvest festival. The ancestor then cursed Fuji, condemning it to be forever covered in cold snow and isolated from people.
The ancestor then traveled to Mount Tsukuba and made the same request. The deity of Tsukuba, though currently fasting, welcomed the guest warmly with food and shelter. Pleased by this hospitality, the ancestor blessed Tsukuba, declaring that people would forever gather there to sing, dance, and feast. This legend explains why Mount Fuji is barren and cold in winter, while Mount Tsukuba remains covered in lush vegetation and bustles with visitors year-round.
Modern Culture: Hiking and Toad Oil
Today, Mount Tsukuba is a hub of recreational culture, blending spiritual pilgrimage with outdoor adventure. Because it is accessible via the Tsukuba Express line from Tokyo, it is a favorite day-trip for hikers of all levels.
The Trails and Geology
The hiking trails are famously dotted with massive rock formations, such as the “Benkei Nana-modori” (Benkei’s Seven Returns), a balancing rock that looks so precarious it is said even the brave warrior monk Benkei hesitated seven times before passing under it. The summit offers a “sky walk” between the two peaks, providing panoramic views of the Kanto Plain, the Tokyo Skytree, and, on clear days, Mount Fuji itself.
Gama no Abura (Toad Oil)
No visit to Tsukuba is complete without encountering the legend of the toad. Gama no Abura (Toad Oil) is a traditional ointment famously sold at the mountain’s base. Historically, street performers would conduct elaborate sales pitches involving a sword dance to demonstrate the healing properties of the oil (which allegedly healed cuts instantly). While the oil sold today is mostly Vaseline and lanolin, the Gama performance remains a charming local cultural asset.
Traveler’s Tips
To make the most of your excursion to the twin peaks, keep these expert tips in mind:
- Choose Your Mode of Ascent: You do not need to be an expert hiker. The red cable car takes you up the Nantai side, while the ropeway lifts you to the Nyotai side. Many travelers hike up one way and take the cable car down to save their knees.
- Visit the Shrine: Before ascending, pay your respects at the Tsukuba-san Shrine at the base. It is a massive complex dedicated to marital bliss and matchmaking.
- Seasonal Beauty: Visit in late February or early March for the Plum Blossom Festival (Ume Matsuri). The hillside turns into a sea of pink and white, offering one of the best photo opportunities in the region.
- Night Views: During the autumn and winter months, the ropeway operates at night for the “Stardust Cruising” event, offering a view of the glittering Tokyo metropolis designated as a “Japan Night View Heritage” site.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep mythology and history surrounding Mount Tsukuba, the following texts provide the foundation for the legends mentioned above:
- Hitachi no Kuni Fudoki (Records of the Culture and Geography of Hitachi Province): Compiled in the early 8th century, this text contains the specific legend regarding the ancestor deity and the contrast between Mt. Fuji and Mt. Tsukuba.
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While the specific Fuji/Tsukuba story is in the Fudoki, the Kojiki provides the essential context for the creation deities Izanagi and Izanami, who are worshipped at the twin peaks.
- Man’yoshu (Collection of Ten Thousand Leaves): Japan’s oldest poetry anthology features numerous poems dedicated to the beauty of Mount Tsukuba, highlighting its significance in the ancient Yamato period.