Choyo no Sekku: The Magic of Chrysanthemum Sake
As the humid heat of the Japanese summer begins to give way to the crisp breezes of autumn, the cultural calendar turns a significant page. While cherry blossoms dominate the spring, the noble chrysanthemum rules the autumn. On September 9th, Japan celebrates the last of the five sacred seasonal festivals (Gosekku), known as Choyo no Sekku (The Double Ninth Festival). At the heart of this ancient celebration lies a poetic and health-conscious ritual: the drinking of Kikuzake, or Chrysanthemum Sake.
For travelers and culture enthusiasts, understanding this festival offers a glimpse into the elegant court life of historical Japan and provides a unique way to experience the changing seasons through taste and tradition.
The Origins: Yin, Yang, and the Power of Nine
The roots of Choyo no Sekku, like many Japanese traditions, can be traced back to ancient China and the philosophy of Yin and Yang. In this numerological system, odd numbers are considered “Yang” (positive/masculine) and even numbers are “Yin” (negative/feminine).
The number nine is the greatest single-digit odd number, representing the pinnacle of Yang energy. However, ancient philosophers believed that when two supreme Yang numbers overlapped—September 9th (9/9)—the energy became too intense, potentially turning ominous or disastrous. To counterbalance this surplus of energy and revert it to a celebration of longevity, rituals were established to purify the body and spirit.
Adopted by the Japanese Imperial Court during the Heian period (794–1185), the festival evolved into a sophisticated affair. Courtiers would compose poetry, arrange flowers, and, most importantly, consume the essence of the chrysanthemum, a flower believed to possess medicinal properties capable of extending life.
The Legend of the Chrysanthemum Boy
The association between chrysanthemums and immortality is deeply cemented in Japanese folklore, particularly through the legend of Kiku-jido (The Chrysanthemum Boy). This story, often performed in Noh theater, tells of a young attendant to the Emperor who was exiled to a remote mountain for accidentally stepping over the Emperor’s pillow.
While in exile, the boy lived among vast fields of wild chrysanthemums. He inscribed sacred verses on the leaves of the plants and placed them into the mountain stream. By drinking the dew and water that flowed from these chrysanthemum leaves, the boy ceased to age. He reportedly lived for 700 or 800 years, maintaining his youthful appearance for eternity.
This legend of the “Kikusuido” (Chrysanthemum Water) solidified the belief that the flower held the secret to eternal youth, a belief that manifests physically in the tradition of Kikuzake.
Modern Culture: How the Festival is Celebrated Today
While Choyo no Sekku is not as widely celebrated in modern households as Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day) or Kodomo no Hi (Children’s Day), it remains a significant event in the cultural calendar of Kyoto and at Shinto shrines across Japan.
The Ritual of Kikuzake
The primary custom involves steeping edible chrysanthemum petals in sake. The petals are often washed in sake the night before or floated fresh in the cup. The result is a drink that is visually stunning and subtly aromatic. The bitterness of the flower is said to cleanse the body of toxins accumulated during the hot summer.
Kisewata (Cotton Covering)
Another enduring tradition is Kisewata. On the eve of the festival, cotton wool is placed over the chrysanthemum blooms to collect the morning dew and the flower’s scent. The next morning, this dew-soaked cotton is used to wipe one’s body, a ritual believed to prevent old age and promote health.
Culinary Delights
Travelers in Japan during early September will notice Wagashi (Japanese sweets) shops selling confections shaped like chrysanthemums. Many restaurants serve chestnut rice (kuri-gohan) or dishes garnished with edible petals, marking the harvest season.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Choyo no Sekku
If you find yourself in Japan during early September, here is how you can immerse yourself in the spirit of the Double Ninth Festival:
- Visit Kamigamo Shrine (Kyoto): This shrine hosts a famous Choyo ceremony where priests offer chrysanthemum flowers to the deities. You can often witness traditional Karasu-zumo (Crow Sumo), a unique ritual where shrine officials imitate crows before a sumo match dedicated to the gods.
- Hoko-ji Temple (Kyoto): Known for its connections to the imperial family, this temple often offers Kikuzake to visitors on September 9th.
- DIY Celebration: If you cannot make it to a shrine, visit a department store (depachika). Buy a bottle of high-quality sake and a pack of edible chrysanthemums (usually found in the vegetable section). Float the petals in your cup at your hotel and toast to your own health and longevity.
- Look for Seasonal Motifs: Keep an eye out for kimono patterns, lacquerware, and pottery featuring the flower. The 16-petaled chrysanthemum is the Imperial Seal of Japan, but during this season, artistic variations are everywhere.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the history of Japanese festivals and court rituals, the following texts provide essential context:
- The Tale of Genji (Genji Monogatari): Written by Murasaki Shikibu in the Heian period, this classic text contains numerous references to court rituals, including the elaborate celebrations of the seasonal festivals.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): As one of the oldest books of classical Japanese history, it details the introduction of the calendar system and the influence of continental philosophy on Japanese statecraft.
- The Pillow Book (Makura no Soshi): Sei Shonagon’s observations of Heian court life offer vivid descriptions of the aesthetic appreciation of nature and seasonal changes.