Dazaifu Tenmangu: Witness the Legendary Flying Plum
While the world often associates Japan exclusively with the cherry blossom (sakura), there is an earlier, more fragrant herald of spring that holds deep cultural significance: the plum blossom, or ume. Nowhere is this flower more revered than at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka Prefecture. Home to over 6,000 plum trees, this shrine is not just a botanical garden but the stage for one of Japan’s most poignant legends involving a banished scholar, political intrigue, and a tree that flew across the country out of loyalty.
Introduction
Located just a short train ride from the bustling heart of Fukuoka City, Dazaifu Tenmangu constitutes the head shrine of approximately 12,000 Tenmangu shrines across Japan. It is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, known as Tenjin, the Shinto deity of learning, culture, and the arts.
Every year, from late January to early March, the shrine grounds transform into a sea of pink and white. However, visitors do not come merely for the aesthetics. They come to pay respects to the Tobiume (The Flying Plum), a sacred tree that stands guard to the right of the main hall (Honden), symbolizing a bond that transcends the laws of nature.
Origins: The Scholar and the Exile
To understand the plums of Dazaifu, one must understand the man enshrined there. Sugawara no Michizane (845–903) was a brilliant scholar, poet, and high-ranking politician during the Heian Period. His rapid ascent in the imperial court drew the envy of the rival Fujiwara clan. Through political maneuvering, the Fujiwara convinced the Emperor that Michizane was plotting treason.
In the year 901, Michizane was stripped of his rank and exiled to Dazaifu, which was then a distant government outpost far from the cultured capital of Kyoto. It was a humiliating demotion, effectively a death sentence of isolation. Before leaving his beloved home in Kyoto, Michizane looked upon his favorite plum tree in his garden and composed a famous waka poem expressing his deep sorrow and farewell.
The Legend of the Flying Plum (Tobiume)
The legend tells us that Michizane’s love for his garden was so powerful that the plants responded. The poem he whispered to his plum tree is still recited today:
Kochi fukaba / nioi okose yo / ume no hana / aruji nashi tote / haru na wasure so
“If the east wind blows, send your fragrance to me, oh plum blossoms. Do not forget the spring, even though your master is gone.”
According to folklore, the plum tree was so moved by its master’s plea and so distraught by his absence that it uprooted itself. In a single night, it flew through the sky from Kyoto to Dazaifu to be reunited with Michizane. This tree is known as the Tobiume (Flying Plum). It is said to be the first tree to bloom at the shrine every year, maintaining its vigil over the deity’s spirit.
Modern Culture and the Plum Festival
Today, the plum blossoms are intrinsic to the identity of Dazaifu. The shrine grounds host approximately 200 varieties of plums among its 6,000 trees. This biodiversity ensures a long viewing season, starting with the early-blooming Tobiume and continuing with the weeping plums and late-blooming varieties.
The appreciation of these flowers culminates in the Ume Matsuri (Plum Festival). During this time, the shrine holds open-air tea ceremonies (nodate) under the blossoming trees. This tradition reflects the Heian-era aristocratic pastime of writing poetry while admiring flowers.
Another essential aspect of modern Dazaifu culture is Umegae Mochi. These are grilled rice cakes filled with red bean paste and stamped with the pattern of a plum blossom. While they do not contain actual plum fruit, legend says an elderly woman offered a similar rice cake to a hungry and depressed Michizane during his exile. Eating them today is said to ward off illness and sharpen the mind.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu requires a little planning to avoid the heaviest crowds and ensure the best experience.
Best Time to Visit
The peak season for the plums is usually late February to early March. The Tobiume generally blooms earlier, often in late January or early February. If you visit in late March, the plums may be fading, but the cherry blossoms will begin to take their place.
Access
From Nishitetsu Fukuoka (Tenjin) Station, take the Nishitetsu Tenjin Omuta Line. You will usually need to transfer at Futsukaichi Station to the Dazaifu Line, though direct trains are available during peak hours. The journey takes about 25–40 minutes.
Etiquette
Before approaching the main hall to see the Flying Plum, purify your hands and mouth at the Temizuya (water pavilion). When praying, bow twice, clap your hands twice, pray silently, and bow once more. Respect the trees; do not pull on branches to get a better photo.
Food Recommendation
Do not leave without trying a fresh, hot Umegae Mochi from the vendors lining the Omotesando (approach path) leading to the shrine. They are best eaten while warm and crisp.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deeper historical and literary context of Dazaifu and Sugawara no Michizane, the following texts and records offer profound insights:
- The Manyoshu: Japan’s oldest anthology of poetry contains numerous poems about Dazaifu, as the city was a diplomatic and administrative center long before Michizane’s arrival. It highlights the region’s historical importance as a gateway to Asia.
- The Okagami (The Great Mirror): A historical tale that documents the Heian period, including the political intrigues of the Fujiwara clan and the tragic exile of Michizane.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While predating Michizane, this classical text (along with the Kojiki) establishes the foundation of Shinto nature worship and the significance of the Kyushu region in Japanese mythology, providing the spiritual backdrop for the shrine’s later establishment.
- Kitano Tenjin Engi Emaki: These are illustrated handscrolls that depict the life of Michizane, his transformation into a vengeful spirit, and his eventual deification as Tenjin.