Udo Jingu: The Vermilion Shrine of the Nichinan Coast
Japan is home to roughly 80,000 Shinto shrines, but few possess the dramatic flair and mythical atmosphere of Udo Jingu (鵜戸神宮). Located on the Nichinan Coast of Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu, this shrine does not sit atop a mountain or within a quiet forest. Instead, it is tucked inside a natural cavern on a cliffside, facing the roaring waves of the Hyuga-nada Sea. The contrast of the shrine’s brilliant vermilion lacquer against the rugged grey rocks and the deep blue ocean creates one of the most spectacular vistas in Japan.
Origins and Spiritual Significance
While the exact date of its founding is shrouded in the mists of time, Udo Jingu is believed to have been established during the reign of Emperor Sujin (legendary dates 97–30 BC) or perhaps even earlier during the Age of the Gods. It is dedicated to Ugayafukiaezu no Mikoto, the father of Emperor Jimmu, who is mythologically considered the first Emperor of Japan.
Udo Jingu is distinct among Japanese shrines as a kudari-miya (descending shrine). Traditionally, visitors climb stairs upward to reach a shrine, symbolizing an ascent to the holy. At Udo Jingu, pilgrims must descend a steep stone staircase along the cliff edge to reach the cave entrance, a physical journey that feels like descending into the womb of the earth.
Historically, the site was also a training ground for Yamabushi (mountain ascetics) and was known as Udo-san. Until the Meiji Restoration separated Buddhism and Shintoism in the late 19th century, it flourished as a syncretic site known as Udo Gongen, blending both traditions.
The Legend of the Dragon Princess
The allure of Udo Jingu is deeply intertwined with the Legend of Umisachihiko and Yamasachihiko, a famous tale recorded in Japan’s oldest chronicles.
The story goes that Yamasachihiko (a deity of the mountains) lost his brother’s fishhook in the sea. While searching for it, he traveled to the Dragon Palace (Ryugu-jo) at the bottom of the ocean. There, he met and married Toyotama-hime, the daughter of the Sea God (Ryujin).
When Toyotama-hime became pregnant, she told her husband that she must give birth on land. They arrived at the cave where Udo Jingu now stands. Yamasachihiko hurriedly built a birthing hut using cormorant feathers for the roof (hence the name “Udo,” derived from the old word for cormorant). However, the child arrived before the roof was finished.
The Forbidden Look and the Breast Rock
Toyotama-hime warned her husband not to look at her during childbirth, as she would revert to her true form. Overcome by curiosity, Yamasachihiko peeked and saw a massive shark (or crocodile-like dragon, referred to as a wani) cradling the infant. Ashamed at being seen, Toyotama-hime abandoned the child and returned to the ocean, sealing the path behind her.
Because she could not nurse her son, she left behind her breasts in the form of two rock protuberances on the cave ceiling. These rocks, known as Ochichiiwa (Breast Rocks), are said to drip water that nourished the infant deity. Today, visitors still drink the water dripping from these rocks (or water collected from them), known as Ochichi-ame, hoping for safe childbirth, nursing success, and good fortune.
Modern Culture and Rituals
Today, Udo Jingu is a vibrant cultural site, particularly popular among young couples and expectant parents. Due to the legend of Toyotama-hime, the shrine is revered as a power spot for matchmaking, pregnancy, and safe delivery.
The Luck of the Undama
One of the most engaging activities for modern visitors is the throwing of Undama (luck balls). Just below the shrine terrace, amidst the crashing waves, lies a turtle-shaped rock called the Kame-iwa. On its back is a small depression marked by a shimenawa rope.
Visitors can purchase five small ceramic balls stamped with the character for “luck” (運). The goal is to throw the Undama into the rope circle on the rock.
- Men must throw with their left hand.
- Women must throw with their right hand.
If an Undama lands in the depression, it is said that your wish will come true. The sound of the ceramic balls clicking against the rocks and the cheers of successful throwers add a lively energy to the sacred space.
Traveler’s Tips
To make the most of your visit to this mythological site, keep the following tips in mind:
- Footwear: The approach to the shrine involves steep stone steps and uneven surfaces. Comfortable walking shoes are essential. Avoid high heels.
- Access: Udo Jingu is located in Nichinan City. It is accessible via bus from Miyazaki Station or Miyazaki Airport (approx. 60–90 minutes). The bus stop is “Udo Jingu,” followed by a 15-minute walk. A rental car is the most convenient option for exploring the Nichinan coast.
- Timing: The shrine is open year-round. Visiting early in the morning allows you to avoid crowds and see the sunrise over the Pacific, which is a truly spiritual experience.
- Nearby Attractions: Combine your trip with a visit to Sun Messe Nichinan, famous for its replicas of the Moai statues, which is just a short drive away.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep mythology surrounding Udo Jingu, the following historical texts provide the primary accounts of the deities mentioned:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Compiled in 712 AD, this text details the genealogy of the gods, including the story of Yamasachihiko and Toyotama-hime.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, this text offers alternative versions of the myths and historical records of the early Imperial line.