The Legend of Amano Iwato: When the Sun Vanished from Japan
Japan is often called the “Land of the Rising Sun,” a title deeply rooted in its mythological origins. At the heart of Shinto cosmology lies the story of Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun Goddess, and the dramatic event known as the Legend of Amano Iwato (Heavenly Rock Cave). This myth explains not only the balance of day and night but also the origins of Japanese religious rituals, arts, and the imperial lineage.
For culture enthusiasts and travelers alike, understanding this legend unlocks the spiritual significance of Takachiho, a breathtaking region in Miyazaki Prefecture where the gods are said to have walked the earth.
The Origins of the Myth
The story of Amano Iwato is recorded in Japan’s oldest historical chronicles: the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters, 712 AD) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan, 720 AD). These texts served to legitimize the rule of the Imperial family by tracing their lineage back to the gods.
The conflict begins with a sibling rivalry. Amaterasu ruled the High Celestial Plain (Takamagahara), representing order and light. Her brother, Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the storm god, represented chaos. Susanoo, jealous and impetuous, went on a rampage through the heavens, destroying rice fields, defiling sacred temples, and causing general mayhem.
The Legend: Darkness and the Dawn
Distraught by her brother’s violent outbursts and fearing for her safety, Amaterasu fled. She retreated into a cave called Amano Iwato and blocked the entrance with a massive rock.
The World in Eternal Night
The moment the Sun Goddess sealed herself away, the world was plunged into darkness. Evil spirits swarmed the earth, and chaos reigned. The crops failed, and the myriad of gods (Yaoyorozu no Kami) were desperate. They gathered at the dry riverbed of Amano Yasukawara to devise a plan to lure the sun back out.
The Divine Strategy
The gods realized that force would not move the rock. Instead, they decided to pique Amaterasu’s curiosity. They crafted a sacred mirror (Yata no Kagami) and jewel beads (Yasakani no Magatama), hanging them on a Sakaki tree outside the cave.
Then, Ame-no-Uzume, the goddess of dawn and mirth, took the stage. She overturned a wooden tub and began to dance upon it. The dance was wild, comical, and erotic; she stomped her feet so hard the earth shook and eventually exposed her chest and thighs. The gathered gods roared with laughter, their cheers echoing through the heavens.
The Return of the Light
Inside the cave, Amaterasu was perplexed. “Why are they celebrating when the world is dark and I am gone?” she wondered. Overcome by curiosity, she cracked the stone door open just a sliver to ask what was happening.
Ame-no-Uzume replied, “We rejoice because we have found a deity even more illustrious than you!” At that moment, the gods held up the mirror. Amaterasu, seeing her own brilliant reflection and mistaking it for another sun, was mesmerized. She leaned out further to get a better look.
Seizing the moment, Ame-no-Tajikarao (the god of strength), who had been hiding beside the entrance, grabbed Amaterasu’s hand and pulled her out of the cave. Another god quickly strung a shimenawa (sacred straw rope) across the entrance to prevent her return.
With Amaterasu back in the sky, light returned to the universe, banishing the darkness and evil spirits. Order was restored.
Modern Culture and Symbolism
The Amano Iwato legend is not just an ancient story; it is the foundation of many Japanese cultural practices today.
- Shinto Rituals: The dance performed by Ame-no-Uzume is considered the origin of Kagura, a traditional Shinto theatrical dance. Visitors to shrines can often see Kagura performances dedicated to the gods.
- Imperial Regalia: The mirror and the jewels used to lure Amaterasu out, along with the sword later found by Susanoo, make up the Three Sacred Treasures of Japan, which are still part of the Imperial Regalia today.
- Sumo: The god of strength, Tajikarao, is often associated with Sumo wrestling. The stomping done by Sumo wrestlers (shiko) is reminiscent of Ame-no-Uzume’s earth-shaking dance.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Takachiho
For those wishing to step into the myth, a visit to Takachiho in Miyazaki Prefecture (Kyushu) is essential. It is widely regarded as the setting for these celestial events.
- Amano Iwato Shrine: This shrine is dedicated to Amaterasu. While you cannot enter the cave itself (it is a sacred object of worship), you can view it from an observation deck behind the West Sanctuary after a purification ritual by a priest.
- Amano Yasukawara: A short, scenic walk along the river from the shrine leads to this massive cave. This is where the gods supposedly gathered to discuss their plan. The atmosphere is mystical, with thousands of stacked stones left by visitors making wishes.
- Takachiho Kagura: Every night at the Takachiho Shrine, a shortened version of the Yokagura (night dance) is performed for tourists. It specifically reenacts the Amano Iwato legend, including the dance of Ame-no-Uzume and the feat of strength by Tajikarao.
Getting There: Takachiho is best accessed by bus or rental car from Kumamoto or Miyazaki City. It is a remote mountainous area, so plan for an overnight stay to witness the evening Kagura performance.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Kojiki: Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain. This text provides the most direct translation of the ancient myths.
- The Nihon Shoki: Translated by W.G. Aston. Offers a more historical and chronological perspective on the same events.
- Takachiho Tourist Association: Official guides on accessing the sacred sites connected to the legend.