The Last Samurai: Exploring Hijikata Toshizo’s Relics
Japan’s history is painted in the blood and ink of the samurai, but few figures command as much tragic romance and respect as Hijikata Toshizo. Known as the “Demon Vice-Commander” of the Shinsengumi, Hijikata was a warrior who lived by the sword and died trying to preserve a fading era. For travelers and history enthusiasts, the tangible remnants of his life—his sword, his letters, and his armor—offer a bridge across time to the turbulent Bakumatsu period.
Visiting the sites housing Hijikata Toshizo’s relics is not merely a museum tour; it is a pilgrimage into the heart of the samurai spirit. Here is your guide to understanding the artifacts left behind by the man who refused to surrender.
Origins: The Merchant turned Warrior
Before he was a feared commander, Hijikata was a medicine peddler from the Tama region near modern-day Tokyo. The relics from his early life paint a picture of a man with humble beginnings but grand ambitions.
Among the most significant artifacts is the Ishida Sanyaku, the medicine his family produced. However, the true centerpiece of his legacy is his beloved katana, the Izuminokami Kanesada. Unlike many ceremonial blades, this sword was a weapon of war, forged for combat. Currently housed in the Hijikata Toshizo Museum in Hino City, the blade bears the scars and wear of a weapon used in the violent street battles of Kyoto. Seeing the Kanesada up close, one can almost feel the weight of the Shinsengumi’s duty to protect the Shogunate.
Another striking relic is his attire. Hijikata was unique for embracing Western military tactics and fashion towards the end of his life. The famous photograph of him—sitting casually in a chair, wearing a Western frock coat and boots while holding his katana—is one of the most iconic images of Japanese history. This mix of East and West symbolizes the very conflict that defined his era.
Legend: The Battle of Hakodate and the Final Poem
The legend of Hijikata Toshizo was cemented in the frozen north of Hakodate. After the fall of the Shogun, he retreated to Hokkaido to establish the Ezo Republic, fighting a losing battle against the Imperial forces. It was here that the “Demon” showed his true humanity.
Moments before his final charge on horseback, Hijikata entrusted his page, Ichimura Tetsunosuke, with a lock of his hair, a photograph, and his death poem (jisei no ku). He ordered the boy to escape and deliver these mementos to his family in Hino.
The poem reads: “Though my body may decay on the island of Ezo, my spirit guards my lord in the East.”
These items, miraculously delivered through enemy lines, are now sacred treasures. They transform the terrifying commander into a loyal man who knew he was riding to his death but chose honor over survival. The relics tell the story of a man who evolved from a strict disciplinarian into a beloved leader who inspired his men to the bitter end.
Modern Culture: The Immortal Vice-Commander
Today, Hijikata Toshizo is more than a historical figure; he is a pop culture icon. His relics have found new life through anime, manga, and video games, sparking a massive boom in tourism known as the Rekijo (history girls) phenomenon.
- Golden Kamuy: This popular series imagines a world where an aged Hijikata survived the Battle of Hakodate, leading a group of rebels. His sword and tactical genius are central to the plot.
- Hakuouki: A romance visual novel series that portrays Hijikata as a tragic, handsome hero, driving thousands of fans to visit Hino City.
- Touken Ranbu: In this game, famous swords are anthropomorphized into warriors. The character representing the Izuminokami Kanesada is a fan favorite, drawing attention to the actual sword’s location.
These modern interpretations have ensured that the lines for the Hijikata Toshizo Museum often wrap around the block, proving that his spirit is very much alive in the 21st century.
Traveler’s Tips
If you wish to view these relics, planning is essential, as access is often restricted.
- Hijikata Toshizo Museum (Hino, Tokyo): This is the grim-zero for Hijikata fans. It is located in his childhood home, still owned by his descendants.
- Tip: The museum is usually only open on the first and third Sundays of the month. Always check the official website before going. The Izuminokami Kanesada is displayed for limited periods, usually around May (the anniversary of his death).
- Hakodate (Hokkaido): Visit the Goryokaku Fort, the star-shaped citadel where he made his last stand. There are statues and memorials throughout the city.
- Etiquette: When viewing the sword or family altar, maintain a respectful silence. Photography is often strictly prohibited inside the museum to preserve the artifacts.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the Samurai code and the history surrounding the Shinsengumi, consider exploring the following:
- Shinsengumi: The Shogun’s Last Samurai Corps by Romulus Hillsborough – An excellent English resource detailing the rise and fall of the group.
- The Boshin War Records: For historical context on the civil war that claimed Hijikata’s life.
- Nihon Shoki / Kojiki: While Hijikata lived centuries after these ancient texts, reading them provides the foundational context for the Bushido spirit and the concept of loyalty to the Emperor and country that drove the conflicts of the 19th century.