Bon Odori: Dancing in the Circle of Spirits in Japan
When the humid heat of the Japanese summer settles over the archipelago, a distinct rhythmic beating of taiko drums begins to echo through neighborhoods, from the neon-lit districts of Tokyo to the quiet hamlets of Kyoto. This is the sound of Obon, a Buddhist event commemorating one’s ancestors. At the heart of this festival lies the Bon Odori (Bon Dance), where communities gather to dance in a hypnotic, communal circle.
For travelers, the sight of hundreds of people moving in unison under the glow of paper lanterns is enchanting. But the wa (circle) is more than just choreography; it is a spiritual bridge between the living and the dead, a symbol of equality, and a celebration of life itself.
The Origins of the Dance
The roots of Bon Odori run deep into Japanese history, dating back over 500 years. Originally, the dance was a form of Nenbutsu Odori, a ritualistic dance performed by Buddhist monks chanting prayers to Amida Buddha. During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), these religious rites began to merge with local folk traditions and harvest festivals, evolving into the entertainment-focused events we see today.
The circular formation is significant. In the past, the circle was formed around a yagura (a high wooden scaffold) where musicians and singers performed. The circle represents the cycle of life and reincarnation in Buddhist philosophy. Furthermore, the circle acts as a great equalizer; in the ring of the dance, there is no hierarchy—farmers, merchants, and samurai once danced shoulder to shoulder, just as CEOs and students do today. It is believed that the spirits of ancestors return during Obon to join this circle, dancing invisibly alongside their living descendants.
The Legend of Mokuren
Why do Japanese people dance to honor the dead? The answer lies in a poignant Buddhist legend involving a disciple of the Buddha named Mokuren (Maudgalyayana in Sanskrit).
According to the legend, Mokuren used his supernatural powers to look upon his deceased mother. He was horrified to discover she had fallen into the Realm of Hungry Ghosts (Gaki-do) and was suffering from insatiable hunger and thirst due to her past greed. Distraught, Mokuren asked the Buddha how he could save her.
The Buddha instructed him to make offerings to the monks who had just completed their summer retreat on the fifteenth day of the seventh month. Mokuren followed these instructions, and his mother was released from her torment. Overjoyed at her liberation and grateful for her past kindness, Mokuren danced with joy. This dance of relief and gratitude is said to be the origin of Bon Odori.
Modern Culture: The Circle Today
In contemporary Japan, Bon Odori has evolved from a strictly religious ceremony into a vibrant community festival (matsuri). While traditional folk songs like “Tanko Bushi” (Coal Miner’s Song) and “Tokyo Ondo” remain staples, the playlists have modernized significantly.
Depending on the region, you might hear J-Pop hits, anime theme songs (such as “Doraemon”), or even “Dancing Hero” by Yoko Oginome, which has become a viral Bon Odori anthem in recent years. The atmosphere is festive rather than somber. The scent of yakisoba (fried noodles) and takoyaki (octopus balls) fills the air, and children play games at stalls lining the perimeter of the dance circle.
The wa (circle) has also become a symbol of community resilience. After major disasters, such as the 2011 earthquake, local Bon Odori festivals served as vital gatherings for emotional healing, reinforcing the bond between neighbors and the continuity of life.
Traveler’s Tips: Joining the Circle
If you find yourself in Japan during July or August, participating in a Bon Odori is a must-do experience. The best part? You are encouraged to join in.
1. No Invitation Needed
Most Bon Odori festivals, especially those in public parks or temple grounds, are open to everyone. There is no need to sign up; simply walk up to the edge of the circle.
2. Watch and Learn
The movements are generally repetitive and designed to be easy to learn. Don’t worry about being perfect. Find a spot in the circle, look at the person in front of you (or the skilled dancers atop the yagura), and mimic their hand and foot movements. The locals will appreciate your effort.
3. Dress the Part (Optional)
While everyday clothes are perfectly acceptable, wearing a yukata (a light summer cotton kimono) adds to the immersion. Many hotels or rental shops offer yukata dressing services during the summer season. Dancing in wooden geta sandals adds a satisfying “clack-clack” percussion to the rhythm.
4. Respect the Etiquette
The circle usually moves counter-clockwise. Try to maintain the flow and spacing of the line. While photos are generally okay, be mindful not to block the path of the dancers.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical and religious context of the Bon festival, the following texts and scriptures provide foundational knowledge:
- The Ullambana Sutra: The primary Buddhist sutra that details the story of Mokuren and the origins of making offerings to save ancestors.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While primarily a historical record, it provides context on early Japanese spiritual practices and the integration of Buddhism.
- Works of Lafcadio Hearn: For 19th-century observations of Japanese ghostly traditions and Obon customs.
The Bon Odori circle remains one of Japan’s most welcoming traditions—a place where the past and present hold hands, moving together under the summer moon.