Mikoshi Procession: Walking with the Gods in Japan
If you have ever visited Japan during a summer festival, you have likely heard the thunderous roar of voices chanting “Wasshoi! Wasshoi!” before you even saw the source of the commotion. This is the sound of a Mikoshi procession, one of the most dynamic and intense spectacles in Japanese culture. Far more than a simple parade, this ritual involves transporting a deity through the streets, allowing the god to bless the community and purify the land.
Introduction to the Divine Palanquin
A Mikoshi is essentially a portable Shinto shrine. In Japanese mythology, gods, or Kami, reside within the main halls of shrines. However, during specific festivals (matsuri), the Kami is ritually transferred from the altar into the Mikoshi. This ornate, palanquin-like structure is then carried on the shoulders of local parishioners, known as ujiko.
The procession, often called Shinko-sai or Togyo, serves a dual purpose: it allows the deity to inspect the neighborhood and bestow blessings upon the residents, and it allows the community to entertain and energize the deity. The atmosphere is a unique blend of solemn religious observance and raucous celebration, characterized by the swaying of the heavy shrine and the sweat of the bearers.
Origins of the Procession
The history of the Mikoshi dates back to the Nara period (710–794). While the exact origin is debated among historians, a widely accepted milestone occurred in 749 AD. According to historical records, the deity Hachiman was transported from the Usa Hachiman Shrine in Kyushu to Nara to oversee the construction of the Great Buddha at Todaiji Temple. This event is often cited as the first instance of a deity traveling in a palanquin.
Over the centuries, the practice evolved. During the Heian period, Mikoshi processions became integral to Goryo-e, rituals designed to appease vengeful spirits believed to cause plagues and natural disasters. By parading the deities through the streets, the people hoped to purify the atmosphere and drive away malevolent forces.
Legend: Why Shake the Shrine?
To the untrained eye, a Mikoshi procession looks chaotic. The bearers often jolt, shake, and toss the shrine violently. This is not due to a lack of coordination; it is a deliberate ritual act known as Tama-furi (soul shaking).
According to Shinto legend and spiritual theory, a deity’s power can become dormant or stagnant over time. By vigorously shaking the portable shrine, the bearers are said to rouse the spirit of the Kami, intensifying its power (Tama) and increasing its ability to grant harvest and health. The wilder the ride for the god, the more pleased the deity is believed to be.
Some legends also suggest that the procession route is meant to mimic the deity’s dominion. In coastal towns, Mikoshi are often carried into the sea to bless the waters for fishermen, a practice that connects the community directly to the elemental powers of nature described in ancient mythology.
Modern Culture and the Chant
Today, the Mikoshi procession remains the heart of the community festival. The bearers wear traditional happi coats and tabi boots, representing their neighborhood associations. The structure itself is a masterpiece of craftsmanship, often lacquered in black and red, adorned with gold leaf, and topped with a phoenix (Ho-o) or onion-shaped finial.
The auditory landscape is defined by the chant. While “Wasshoi” is the most famous chant, believed to mean “carrying harmony” or “staying with the group,” it varies by region. In Tokyo’s Sanja Matsuri, you might hear “Soiya!”, while in other regions, “Edosa!” is common. These chants help the bearers coordinate their breathing and steps under the immense weight, which can exceed 1,000 kilograms (2,200 lbs).
Traveler’s Tips for Viewing
Witnessing a Mikoshi procession is a highlight of Japan travel, but it requires awareness:
- Respect the Space: Do not touch the Mikoshi. It is a sacred vessel containing a god. Only the designated bearers are allowed to handle it.
- Watch Your Feet: The bearers have limited visibility and the shrine is heavy. If the crowd shifts, move quickly to avoid being crushed.
- The Water Ritual: In some festivals, like the Fukagawa Hachiman Festival, spectators throw water on the bearers to cool them down. Be prepared to get wet if you are in the front rows.
- Photography: Photos are generally encouraged, but never obstruct the path of the procession for a selfie. The momentum of the Mikoshi cannot stop instantly.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the theological and historical foundations of these rituals, the following texts provide essential context regarding Kami and early Japanese worship:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Describes the origins of the Kami and the creation of Japan, providing the mythological context for why nature and deities are worshipped.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers historical accounts of early imperial religious rites.
- Engishiki: An ancient book of laws and regulations that details Shinto rituals from the Heian period.
By understanding the history and legends behind the spectacle, the Mikoshi procession transforms from a noisy parade into a profound encounter with the living history of Japan.