The Fragrance of Tatami: The Nostalgic Scent of Japan
There is a specific sensory experience that greets every traveler upon entering a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan. It isn’t just the visual beauty of the shoji screens or the tactile sensation of taking off one’s shoes. It is the smell. A distinct, grassy, slightly sweet, and deeply earthy aroma fills the air. This is the fragrance of tatami, the scent that defines the soul of traditional Japanese architecture.
For centuries, the smell of tatami has been synonymous with the concept of “home” in Japan. It evokes a sense of calm, cleanliness, and connection to nature. In this guide, we explore the origins of this unique flooring, the legends surrounding it, and how you can experience this olfactory cultural treasure today.
The Origins of the Scent: Igusa and Craftsmanship
To understand the fragrance, one must first understand the material. Tatami mats are primarily woven from Igusa (soft rush), a type of reed grass that grows in wetlands. While the core of a tatami mat involves compressed rice straw or modern wood chips, the surface—the part you touch and smell—is high-quality woven soft rush.
The cultivation of Igusa
The majority of Japan’s domestic Igusa is grown in Kumamoto Prefecture on the island of Kyushu. The grass is harvested, dyed with natural mud to prevent sunburn and maintain elasticity, and then dried. It is this drying process that locks in the chlorophyll and natural oils, producing the characteristic scent often compared to fresh hay or dried tea leaves.
From Luxury to Standard
In the Heian Period (794–1185), tatami was not a wall-to-wall flooring solution. Instead, it was a luxury item used as a seating platform for aristocrats and high-ranking officials. The thickness and the pattern of the fabric borders indicated rank. It wasn’t until the Muromachi Period (1336–1573) and the development of the Shoin-zukuri architectural style that tatami began to cover entire floors, transforming the way Japanese people lived, sat, and slept.
Legend and Historical Significance
The connection between the Japanese people and reed plants goes back to the dawn of their civilization. In the earliest chronicles of Japan, the importance of weaving and seating mats is evident.
According to the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters), completed in 712 AD, and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan), compiled in 720 AD, references to woven mats appear in the tales of the gods. While these ancient texts do not describe the modern tatami mat in its current engineered form, they highlight the sacred nature of separating oneself from the bare earth using woven plant materials.
In Shinto belief, rice straw and rush grass are often used to create sacred barriers (shimenawa). The fragrance of the tatami is, therefore, more than just a pleasant smell; historically, it represented a purified space, distinct from the outside world. It was a clean sanctuary where tea could be served, poetry could be written, and gods could be honored.
Modern Culture and the Aromatherapy of Japan
In modern Japan, the presence of tatami is waning in urban apartments, yet the love for its fragrance remains undiminished. Scientific studies have shown that the scent of Igusa contains components similar to vanilla (vanillin) and phytoncide (a substance emitted by trees), which have relaxation effects. Entering a tatami room is essentially a mild form of aromatherapy.
The Washitsu (Japanese Room)
Most modern Japanese houses still strive to include at least one Washitsu (Japanese-style room). This room serves as a multipurpose space: a living room by day and a bedroom by night when futons are laid out. The scent of the tatami in these rooms acts as a psychological switch, signaling to the brain that it is time to slow down.
Recently, there has been a resurgence in tatami products designed for modern life. You can now buy portable tatami yoga mats, rush-grass pillows, and even tatami-scented incenses, allowing people to bring the “scent of Japan” into Western-style homes.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Tatami
If you are planning a trip to Japan, engaging with tatami culture is essential. Here is how to make the most of it:
- Stay in a Ryokan: The best way to experience the fragrance is to book a night in a traditional inn. The mats are often changed or refreshed regularly, ensuring a strong, fresh scent.
- Visit Temples in Kyoto: Many Zen temples, such as those within the Daitoku-ji complex, feature sprawling tatami rooms overlooking carefully manicured gardens. The combination of incense and tatami creates a uniquely spiritual atmosphere.
- Mind Your Step: When walking on tatami, never wear slippers—socks or bare feet only. Furthermore, it is considered bad luck and poor etiquette to step on the fabric borders (heri) of the mats. These borders were once emblazoned with family crests, and stepping on them was seen as stepping on the family’s honor.
- Buying Souvenirs: Look for Igusa coasters or insoles for shoes. They make excellent, lightweight gifts that carry the fragrance back home.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical context of Japanese weaving, dwelling habits, and mythology, the following texts are invaluable:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi. Look for references to woven sedge mats and ancient dwelling construction.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers further context on the aristocratic use of seating mats in the imperial court.
- The Book of Tea by Okakura Kakuzo: While focused on tea, it provides essential context on the architecture of the tea room, which centers around the tatami layout.