Asceticism on Mt. Fuji: A Spiritual Climbing Guide
To the uninitiated observer, Mount Fuji is Japan’s most recognizable natural landmark—a near-perfect cone rising majestically from the Kanto plain. However, to the Japanese soul, “Fuji-san” is far more than a geological feature. It is a portal to the divine, a focal point of worship, and for centuries, a rigorous training ground for spiritual asceticism. While thousands of tourists now flock to the mountain for the view, the act of climbing was originally a profound religious undertaking known as Fuji-tozan.
Understanding the history of asceticism on Mt. Fuji transforms a simple hike into a pilgrimage. This guide explores the spiritual roots of the climb, the legends that shaped it, and how modern travelers can honor these ancient traditions.
The Origins of Fuji Asceticism
The spiritual history of Mt. Fuji is deeply intertwined with Shugendo, a syncretic Japanese religion merging Shinto, Buddhism, and mountain worship (Sangaku Shinko). In ancient times, the mountain was considered too volatile and sacred for ordinary humans to approach. It was viewed as the dwelling place of angry gods who manifested their power through fire and smoke.
By the Heian period (794–1185), ascetics began to venture onto the slopes. The legendary En no Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo, is said to have flown to the summit to meditate, establishing the mountain as a training ground for those seeking supernatural powers through physical endurance. However, it was Matsudai Shonin in the 12th century who is credited with building the first temple on the summit, Dainichiji, solidifying Fuji as a destination for religious practice.
The concept of Fuji-ko (Fuji confraternities) emerged during the Edo period. Charismatic leaders like Kakugyo taught that Mount Fuji was the source of all life. He advocated that climbing the mountain was a way to purify the soul and pray for peace and prosperity. This led to a boom in mass pilgrimage, where commoners—not just monks—began climbing Fuji as an act of devotion, chanting “Rokkon Shojo” (purification of the six roots of perception) with every step.
Legends of the Sacred Peak
While the ascetics provided the practice, mythology provided the deity. The primary goddess of Mount Fuji is Konohanasakuya-hime (The Princess who makes the Blossoms of the Trees Bloom). She is the Shinto deity of volcanoes, fire, and easier childbirth.
According to legend, the jealous father of her husband, Ninigi-no-Mikoto (grandson of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu), doubted the paternity of her children because she conceived after only one night. To prove her purity, she entered a burning hut to give birth, vowing that the children would only survive if they were truly the offspring of the heavenly gods. She and her three sons emerged unscathed.
This fierce demonstration of purity and power is why shrines dedicated to her, known as Sengen Shrines, represent the calming of the volcano. Ascetics climb not just to reach the top, but to pay homage to her spirit, which is believed to control the mountain’s explosive nature.
Modern Culture and the Pilgrimage Today
Today, the white robes of the Edo-period pilgrims have largely been replaced by high-tech hiking gear, yet the spiritual undercurrent remains. In 2013, Mt. Fuji was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site, specifically categorized as a “Sacred Place and Source of Artistic Inspiration.”
Modern asceticism on Fuji is less about isolation and more about shared endurance. The concept of Goraiko—witnessing the sunrise from the summit—is considered a religious experience. As the sun breaks the horizon, a hush falls over the crowds, followed by applause and prayers. It is a moment of rebirth, echoing the ancient belief that the mountain connects the earth to the heavens.
While the mountain is crowded during the July-August climbing season, the physical struggle remains a form of asceticism. The altitude sickness, the cold, and the steep, rocky terrain force a meditation on one’s physical limits, mirroring the trials of the monks of old.
Traveler’s Tips for a Spiritual Climb
If you wish to climb Mt. Fuji not just as a tourist, but as a modern pilgrim, consider these tips to align with the mountain’s cultural heritage:
- Visit a Sengen Shrine First: traditionally, pilgrims visited the Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine at the base (Fujiyoshida) to purify themselves before starting the ascent. Paying your respects here sets the tone for the journey.
- Get a Kongo-zue: Instead of modern trekking poles, purchase a wooden staff (Kongo-zue). You can get it branded with stamps (yakiin) at each mountain hut on the way up. This staff represents your support and creates a physical record of your pilgrimage.
- Respect the Summit: The top of Mt. Fuji is not just a viewpoint; it is sacred ground. Walk the Ohachi-meguri, the crater rim trail, which takes about 90 minutes. It passes the Kusushi Shrine and offers a 360-degree view of Japan.
- Mind Your Manners: Carry out all trash and respect the quiet atmosphere of the mountain huts. The climb is a communal effort; kindness to fellow climbers is part of the spiritual practice.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep mythological roots of Mount Fuji and the deity Konohanasakuya-hime, the following historical texts are essential reading:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest chronicle, which details the lineage of the gods, including the story of Konohanasakuya-hime and Ninigi-no-Mikoto.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides alternative versions of the myths found in the Kojiki and further elaborates on the divine origins of the imperial line and the geography of Japan.
- Engishiki: An ancient book of laws and regulations that lists the shrines rooted in the worship of the mountain.
