Beyond the Main Hall: The Gods of Subordinate Shrines (Keidai Massha)
When travelers visit a Japanese Shinto shrine (Jinja), the focus is almost exclusively on the grandeur of the main hall (Honden) and the worship hall (Haiden). It is here that the primary deity resides, and where the long lines of visitors form to toss a coin and ring the bell. However, if you look toward the periphery of the shrine grounds, nestled under ancient cedar trees or tucked behind the main structures, you will often find miniature shrines. These are the Keidai Massha—the subordinate shrines—and they house a fascinating, complex pantheon of deities that many tourists overlook.
Exploring these small sanctuaries offers a deeper look into the concept of Yaoyorozu no Kami (the eight million gods) and reveals the intricate web of relationships within Japanese mythology.
Origins: The Hierarchy of the Divine
The term “Keidai Massha” is actually a colloquial umbrella term for what Shinto practitioners call Setsumatsusha. This category implies a hierarchy within the shrine precincts (Keidai).
To understand who lives in these tiny wooden or stone houses, one must distinguish between two types:
- Sessha (Auxiliary Shrines): These enshrine deities with a deep, significant connection to the main god of the shrine. They might be the spouse, parent, or child of the primary deity. Because of this familial bond, they are considered highly important and are usually larger and closer to the main hall.
- Massha (Subordinate Shrines): These are the true “lesser” shrines. The gods here might be local earth spirits (Jigami) that inhabited the land before the main shrine was built, or they could be “invited” deities (Bunrei) from other famous shrines like Ise or Izumo.
Historically, this system was formalized during the Heian period (794–1185) and recorded in the Engishiki (Procedures of the Engi Era). It reflects the Japanese feudal society of the past; just as a Lord had retainers and family living within his castle grounds, the main Kami is surrounded by family and supporters.
Legend: The Guest Gods and the Earth Spirits
One of the most compelling legends associated with subordinate shrines involves the concept of the Marodogami or “Guest Deity.”
According to folklore found in texts surrounding the Izumo lineage, gods are not static. They travel. A famous example often found in subordinate shrines is Sukunabikona, a dwarf deity of healing and medicine. Legend states that he arrived on a boat made of a kagami-imo pod, wearing the skin of a moth, to assist Okuninushi in creating the land. Because he is a wandering deity who eventually departed to the “Eternal Land” (Tokoyo), he is often enshrined in small Massha across Japan, representing the transient but powerful nature of divine assistance.
Another frequent resident of these sub-shrines is Inari, the fox deity of harvest and commerce. Even in shrines dedicated to war gods or sea gods, you will almost always find a small red torii gate leading to a Massha dedicated to Inari. This is born from the legend that Inari ensures the economic sustenance of the shrine itself, acting as a spiritual treasurer for the main deity.
Modern Culture: Niches of Prayer
In modern Japan, the Keidai Massha serve a practical spiritual purpose: specialization. While the main god might be a general guardian of the city, the subordinate shrines often have very specific “powers.”
For example, at a large shrine complex, the main hall might be for general good fortune. However, a small Massha in the back might be dedicated solely to curing toothaches, finding a romantic partner, or passing university exams. Locals often bypass the main line to head straight to a specific subordinate shrine that addresses their current personal crisis.
This creates a unique cultural atmosphere where the shrine grounds feel like a spiritual village. It is common to see business men praying at a Massha for financial success, while students flock to a nearby Sessha dedicated to Tenjin, the god of learning.
Traveler’s Tips: How to Visit
Visiting Keidai Massha requires a slightly different approach than the main hall. Here is how to respectfully explore these hidden gems:
- Do Not Ignore Them: If you have time, do the “rounds.” It is considered polite to pay respects to the head of the house (Main God) first, but acknowledging the retainers (Subordinate Gods) brings a more complete blessing.
- Look for Signboards: Even the smallest shrine usually has a wooden plaque explaining who is inside. Use a translation app like Google Lens to discover if the god is a dragon deity of rain or a guardian of safe childbirth.
- Small Offerings: While large donations go to the main hall, 1-yen or 5-yen coins are appropriate for these smaller shrines.
- Nature Appreciation: These shrines are often located in the most overgrown, natural parts of the complex. They are perfect for photography (respectful photography only) and experiencing the animistic roots of Shintoism.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the genealogy and relationships between the main gods and the subordinate deities, the following classical texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest historical record, detailing the family trees of the Kami.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides alternative versions of myths that explain why certain gods are worshipped together.
- The Engishiki: For those interested in the historical laws and listings of shrines from the 10th century.