Inside the Honden: The Sacred Core of Japanese Shrines
When travelers step through the vermilion torii gates of a Japanese Shinto shrine, they enter a world designed to bridge the gap between the mundane and the divine. While the manicured gardens, purifying water fountains, and bustling worship halls (Haiden) capture the eye, the true spiritual heart of the complex often lies hidden just beyond view. This is the Honden (本殿)—the main sanctuary and the most sacred structure within the shrine grounds.
Unlike Western cathedrals where the altar is the focal point of public gathering, the Honden is a place of profound mystery and exclusion. It is the dwelling place of the Kami (deity), a structure so sacred that the general public is almost never allowed to enter, and its doors remain perpetually closed. Understanding the Honden is key to understanding the essence of Shinto itself: a reverence for the unseen.
Origins: From Nature to Architecture
The architectural evolution of the Honden offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of Japanese spirituality. In the earliest forms of Shinto, known as Ko-Shinto, there were no buildings. Worship was directed towards natural features—towering mountains, ancient trees, or imposing waterfalls—which were believed to be the temporary manifestations of spirits.
As the need for permanent rituals grew, rudimentary structures were built to house the deity during ceremonies. Over centuries, influenced by the arrival of Buddhism and continental Asian architecture in the 6th century, these temporary shelters evolved into permanent sanctuaries.
Two of the oldest and most distinct architectural styles of the Honden reflect this transition. The Shinmei-zukuri style, seen at the Ise Grand Shrine, mimics ancient grain warehouses, symbolizing the protection of the harvest. Conversely, the Taisha-zukuri style, famously preserved at the Izumo Taisha, resembles ancient residential palaces. Regardless of the style, the Honden is almost always raised on stilts, physically elevating the deity above the earth and the worshippers.
Legend: The Hidden Deity
The Honden does not house a statue in the way a Buddhist temple might house a Buddha. Instead, it contains the Goshintai (sacred body of the Kami). This is a physical object—often a mirror, a sword, a jewel, or a stone—that acts as a vessel for the spirit to inhabit.
According to legends recorded in the ancient texts, this practice of hiding the sacred object is rooted in the divine nature of the Kami. The most famous example relates to Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess. In the Kojiki, the creation myth of Japan, Amaterasu hides in a cave, plunging the world into darkness, illustrating the devastating power of her withdrawal.
In the context of the Honden, the architecture serves as a permanent “cave” or sanctuary. The Goshintai is wrapped in layers of silk and placed in the innermost chamber. It is considered too powerful and too pure for human eyes. Legend holds that even the high priests who enter the Honden to perform rituals do not look directly at the Goshintai; to do so would be to invite spiritual blindness or divine retribution.
Modern Culture and the Honden
In modern Japan, the Honden remains a symbol of continuity and the preservation of the sacred. While Japan is a technologically advanced nation, the treatment of the Honden reflects a deep cultural adherence to tradition.
Most visitors to a shrine will pray at the Haiden (Worship Hall), which stands in front of the Honden. They clap their hands and bow, directing their prayers toward the Honden located behind the Haiden, often separated by a Tamagaki (sacred fence). This physical separation reinforces the boundary between the human and the divine.
Perhaps the most culturally significant aspect of the Honden is the ritual of Shikinen Sengu at the Ise Grand Shrine. Every 20 years, the Honden is completely dismantled and rebuilt adjacent to the old site using traditional tools and cypress wood. This practice, which has continued for over a millennium, ensures that the sanctuary remains eternally new and that the artisanal skills required to build it are passed down to the next generation.
Traveler’s Tips: Respecting the Sanctuary
For travelers visiting Japan, the Honden presents a unique challenge: how to appreciate something you cannot enter. Here are tips to deepen your experience while remaining respectful:
- Identify the Structure: Look behind the building where people are ringing bells (the Haiden). The building behind it, usually smaller but more ornately decorated and fenced off, is the Honden.
- Observe the Roof: Since you cannot enter, appreciate the external architecture. Look for Chigi (forked finials) and Katsuogi (logs placed horizontally) on the roof. These ancient design elements often indicate the gender of the deity enshrined within.
- Photography Rules: While you can photograph the shrine grounds, taking photos directly into the Honden (if the doors happen to be open during a festival) is considered strictly taboo. Always stand back and respect the “No Photography” signs near the inner sanctum.
- Silence is Golden: The area surrounding the Honden is the most spiritually charged. Keep your voice low.
Sources & Further Reading
To delve deeper into the mythology and history of Japanese shrines, the following classical texts and resources are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Completed in 712 AD, this is the oldest surviving book in Japan and details the myths of the Kami.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, providing a more historical account of the imperial lineage and shrine foundations.
- Shinto: The Kami Way by Sokyo Ono – A comprehensive guide to understanding the philosophy behind the architecture.