The Impurity of Yomi: Unveiling Japan’s Underworld
Japan is often celebrated globally for its pristine streets, organized society, and deep-rooted emphasis on cleanliness. However, this cultural obsession with purity is not merely a modern habit; it is deeply entrenched in the spiritual fabric of the nation, stemming from ancient Shinto mythology. To truly understand the Japanese reverence for purity, one must journey into the dark heart of its mythology: Yomi-no-kuni, the Land of the Dead, and the dreaded concept of Kegare (impurity).
The Roots of Spiritual Pollution
In the Shinto worldview, the world is not divided into ‘good’ and ‘evil’ in the Western moral sense, but rather into ‘purity’ (Hare or Ke) and ‘impurity’ (Kegare). Kegare is described as a state of stagnation, a spiritual withering that disconnects humans from the Kami (gods) and the life force of nature.
Death is considered the ultimate source of Kegare. It is heavy, contagious, and dangerous. This concept originates from the primordial darkness of Yomi, the underworld where the dead reside. Unlike the Christian Hell, Yomi is not a place of punishment for sins, but a gloomy, rotting realm of inevitable decay. The dread associated with Yomi is not about fear of judgment, but fear of contamination.
The Legend of Izanagi and Izanami
The association between the underworld and impurity is best illustrated in Japan’s creation myth found in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters). The story follows the divine couple, Izanagi and Izanami, who created the islands of Japan.
The Descent into Darkness
After giving birth to the Fire God, the goddess Izanami was burned to death and descended to Yomi. Grief-stricken, her husband Izanagi followed her into the underworld to retrieve her. At the gates, she pleaded with him not to look at her while she negotiated with the gods of the underworld.
Overcome by impatience and desire, Izanagi lit a comb to see his wife. He was horrified to find her body rotting, swarming with maggots, and surrounded by thunder deities. The sight was the embodiment of Kegare. Enraged and ashamed, Izanami chased him out of the underworld with a horde of demons.
The Birth of Purification
Izanagi barely escaped, sealing the entrance to Yomi with a massive boulder, effectively separating the world of the living from the dead. Feeling filthy from his contact with the underworld, he went to a river to wash. This act—washing away the pollution of Yomi—is the origin of Misogi, the Shinto ritual of purification. As he washed his face, the most important gods of the Shinto pantheon were born, including Amaterasu (the Sun Goddess), proving that life and purity can be restored even after contact with death.
Echoes in Modern Culture
The ancient fear of the impurity of Yomi still ripples through modern Japanese society, often in ways travelers might overlook.
Salt as a Purifier Salt is the primary tool used to ward off Kegare. You will often see piles of salt (Mori-shio) placed at the entrances of restaurants and businesses. This is not for seasoning, but to prevent impure spirits or bad luck from entering. similarly, Sumo wrestlers throw salt into the ring before a match to purify the sacred ground.
Funeral Customs Because death is the strongest source of Kegare, funerals are conducted with extreme care. When Japanese people return home from a funeral, it is customary to sprinkle salt on themselves before entering their house to ensure the ‘impurity’ of death does not cross the threshold.
Shrine Etiquette Every visit to a Shinto shrine begins at the Chozuya (water pavilion). Visitors rinse their hands and mouths not just to clean off physical dirt, but to ritually purify themselves of the outside world’s pollution before approaching the Kami.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the Mythology
For the culturally curious traveler, understanding the impurity of Yomi adds depth to a visit to Japan. Here is how you can engage with this history:
- Visit Yomotsu Hirasaka: Located in Matsue, Shimane Prefecture, this site is legendary. A large boulder marks what is said to be the actual entrance to Yomi that Izanagi sealed. It is a quiet, atmospheric spot that feels worlds away from the bustle of Tokyo.
- Participate in Misogi: Some shrines offer experiences where visitors can wear white robes and stand under waterfalls or enter icy rivers. While intense, it is the most authentic way to understand the concept of washing away Kegare.
- Observe the Rituals: When you see salt piles or watch locals washing at a shrine, remember the myth. You are witnessing a thousands-year-old reenactment of Izanagi washing off the rot of the underworld.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi. This text contains the primary myth of Izanagi and Izanami.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Another classical history that offers variations on the Yomi myths.
- Engishiki: Ancient procedures and laws that detail the rituals of purification required at the imperial court.