The Legend of Nyoi-jizai: The Yokai Who Has Your Back
There is a specific, maddening sensation known to every human being: an itch on the center of your back, just out of reach of your fingertips. In the West, we might grab a ruler or rub against a doorframe. In the rich tapestry of Japanese folklore, however, this specific problem has a supernatural solution. Enter the Nyoi-jizai (如意自在), a strange and oddly helpful spirit whose sole purpose is to scratch that itch you cannot reach.
For travelers and culture enthusiasts exploring Japan, the world of yokai (spirits and monsters) offers a fascinating glimpse into the animistic worldview of the Edo period. While some yokai are terrifying, others, like the Nyoi-jizai, are whimsical, humorous, and surprisingly practical.
The Origins of Nyoi-jizai
To understand the Nyoi-jizai, one must first understand the concept of Tsukumogami. In Japanese folklore, it is believed that tools and household objects that have served their owners for 100 years acquire a soul and become alive. The Nyoi-jizai is a classic example of a Tsukumogami.
Toriyama Sekien’s Vision
The Nyoi-jizai was popularized, if not invented, by the legendary ukiyo-e artist and folklorist Toriyama Sekien. It appears in his 1784 book, Gazu Hyakki Tsurezure Bukuro (The Illustrated Bag of One Hundred Random Demons).
Sekien’s depiction shows a spirit with a long, flexible arm scratching its own back. The name itself is a clever play on words and concepts. “Nyoi” refers to a priest’s scepter (a symbol of authority in Buddhism), while “Jizai” means “freely” or “at will.”
From Scepter to Scratcher
Historically, the Buddhist scepter known as a nyoi was originally a tool used by monks to scratch their backs during long periods of meditation. Over time, the nyoi became a ceremonial object, while the practical back-scratcher evolved into the common household tool known today as the mago-no-te (grandchild’s hand). The yokai Nyoi-jizai bridges this gap, embodying the spirit of the tool that serves one’s will perfectly.
The Legend and Characteristics
Unlike the malicious Kappa or the frightening Oni, the Nyoi-jizai is generally considered a benevolent, or at least harmless, spirit. It is the manifestation of relief.
The Helpful Spirit
According to the lore, if a person maintains their back-scratcher properly and treats it with respect, it may transform into a Nyoi-jizai. When the owner feels an itch they cannot reach in the middle of the night, the spirit awakens. Using its extendable, spectral claws, it scratches the exact spot that is bothering the sleeper.
However, there is a catch. Because the spirit is named “Nyoi-jizai” (freely as one wishes), it represents the power to reach the unreachable. It is said that those who possess this spirit can scratch any itch, metaphorically implying that they can solve nagging problems that are usually out of reach.
Nyoi-jizai in Modern Culture
While not as globally famous as Godzilla or Pikachu, the Nyoi-jizai maintains a presence in Japan’s pop culture, often appearing in media that celebrates traditional folklore.
Anime and Manga
Fans of the series GeGeGe no Kitaro, the quintessential yokai manga by Shigeru Mizuki, may recognize the Nyoi-jizai. In modern adaptations, it is often portrayed as a quirky, supporting character that aids the protagonist by reaching distant objects or literally scratching itches.
Video Games
In the Nioh series and the Yokai Watch franchise, the Nyoi-jizai appears as an enemy or collectable spirit. These modern interpretations keep the memory of the Edo-period tool alive for a digital generation, transforming an old bamboo stick into a character with personality and stats.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Yokai Culture
If you are fascinated by the story of the Nyoi-jizai and wish to explore the world of Japanese monsters during your travels, here are the best places to visit.
1. Yokai Street (Ichijo-dori), Kyoto
Kyoto is the ancient heart of Japanese mysticism. Ichijo-dori is known as “Yokai Street.” Local shopkeepers have embraced the legends, decorating their storefronts with handmade yokai statues. You can find tsukumogami figures everywhere, and it is the perfect place to hunt for a traditional mago-no-te (back scratcher) souvenir.
2. Mizuki Shigeru Road, Sakaiminato
Located in Tottori Prefecture, this is the hometown of manga artist Shigeru Mizuki. The street is lined with over 170 bronze statues of yokai. It is a pilgrimage site for folklore lovers. Keep an eye out for the smaller, tool-based spirits hidden among the larger statues.
3. The International Mangaku Museum, Kyoto
To see the original depictions of these creatures, visit this museum. They hold extensive archives of manga and historical illustrations where you can study the evolution of Toriyama Sekien’s drawings.
4. Buying Your Own Nyoi
You can purchase traditional bamboo back-scratchers at most 100-yen shops or traditional craft stores in Asakusa (Tokyo) or Arashiyama (Kyoto). While it probably won’t come to life, it remains a fantastic, practical souvenir that embodies the Japanese attention to detail and comfort.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the historical texts that define these legends, the following works are essential:
- Gazu Hyakki Tsurezure Bukuro (1784) by Toriyama Sekien – The primary visual source for the Nyoi-jizai.
- The Kojiki and The Nihon Shoki – While these ancient texts focus on gods (Kami) rather than Tsukumogami, they provide the foundational animistic context of Japanese spirituality.
- Yokai Attack! The Japanese Monster Survival Guide by Hiroko Yoda and Matt Alt – A fantastic modern English resource for understanding these creatures.