Unveiling the Legend of Myojin Baba
When travelers think of Japan, images of neon-lit Tokyo or the serene temples of Kyoto often come to mind. However, beneath the surface of the physical world lies the realm of the Yokai—strange, supernatural creatures and spirits that populate Japanese folklore. Among these entities is a lesser-known but fascinating figure: the Myojin Baba (明神ばば). Unlike the playful Tanuki or the terrifying Oni, the Myojin Baba represents a specific intersection of local religion, nature worship, and the eerie archetype of the “old woman” in storytelling.
Introduction
The Myojin Baba is a mysterious figure often associated with the Izu region and other rural areas of Japan. She is typically depicted as an old woman, or baba, possessing supernatural powers linked to local deities (Myojin). While she is not as globally famous as the Kappa, her story offers a deep dive into the animistic roots of Shinto and the way local communities historically personified natural phenomena, particularly the wind. For the cultural traveler, understanding the Myojin Baba is a key to unlocking the whispered history of Japan’s mountain passes and ancient shrines.
Origins and Etymology
To understand the creature, one must first dissect the name.
The Meaning of the Name
- Myojin (明神): This term translates roughly to “bright deity” or “revealing deity.” It was a common title given to Shinto gods (Kami) before the Meiji Restoration separated Buddhism and Shintoism. It implies a deity of significant power and local importance.
- Baba (ばば): This simply means “old woman” or “crone.” In Japanese folklore, the baba archetype (like the Yama-uba or Mountain Hag) is often ambiguous—capable of being a nurturing grandmother figure or a terrifying, child-eating monster.
Combined, the name suggests a “Divine Hag” or an old woman who serves as a vessel or manifestation of a local god. Anthropologists suggest that the legend likely originated as a way to explain unpredictable weather patterns or lost travelers in the mountains of Shizuoka Prefecture.
The Legend of the Wind Hag
The most prominent folklore surrounding the Myojin Baba connects her directly to the wind.
The Search for the Lost
According to local oral traditions in the Izu region, specifically around the town of Matsuzaki, the Myojin Baba was once a human woman. The legend tells of a woman who went into the mountains—some say to find her lost husband, others say she was searching for a lost iron pot lid or a mirror.
As she searched desperately, she wandered further into the sacred territories of the mountains. Unable to find what she sought and refusing to give up, she eventually transformed into a yokai. It is said that she became the spirit of the west wind. When the wind howls through the mountain passes, locals would say, “Myojin Baba is searching again.”
The Narai Wind
In specific dialects, the strong, cold wind that blows from the mountains is often attributed to her passing. Unlike malevolent spirits that seek to harm humans directly, the Myojin Baba is often viewed as a force of nature—indifferent but dangerous if disrespectfully encountered. If a traveler loses something in the mountains and cannot find it, it is often jokingly (or fearfully) said that Myojin Baba has claimed it for her own collection.
Modern Culture
While the Myojin Baba has faded from daily conversation in modern urban Japan, she remains a fixture in the encyclopedias of the supernatural.
Manga and Media
The legendary manga artist Shigeru Mizuki, known for GeGeGe no Kitaro, helped preserve the image of the Myojin Baba. In his yokai encyclopedias, she is often depicted as a wrinkled, eerie old woman wandering the countryside. This depiction has cemented her image in pop culture as a wandering spirit rather than a static shrine deity.
Local Superstitions
In rural areas where the legend persists, she serves as a cautionary figure. She represents the dangers of obsession (searching until one loses their humanity) and the perils of the deep mountains. Even today, during particularly windy nights in the countryside, elders might tell children to come inside lest they encounter the wandering hag.
Traveler’s Tips: Seeking the Legend
For those wishing to explore the roots of this legend, a trip to the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture is in order.
Where to Go
- Matsuzaki Town: This area is the heartland of the legend. Visit local history museums or ask guides about local folklore.
- Mountain Shrines: Look for small, unmanned roadside shrines dedicated to Myojin. While not every shrine is dedicated to the Baba, the atmosphere of these secluded spots perfectly captures the mood of the legend.
Cultural Etiquette
When visiting these spiritual spots:
- Respect the Silence: These are places of worship and nature.
- Offerings: If you visit a remote shrine, a small offering (a 5-yen coin) is a gesture of respect to the local Kami.
- Nature Safety: If you go hiking to find the “wind,” be prepared. The weather in Izu’s mountains can change rapidly—perhaps the work of the Baba herself.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the academic and historical side of Japanese mythology, the following texts and authors provide essential context:
- Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While Myojin Baba is a later folk legend, this ancient text establishes the foundation of Kami and nature worship.
- The works of Kunio Yanagita: Considered the father of Japanese native folklore studies (Minzokugaku), his works like Tono Monogatari explore similar mountain legends.
- Shigeru Mizuki’s Yokai Encyclopedia: For visual representations and categorized lore regarding Myojin Baba.
- Essays by Lafcadio Hearn: For English-language interpretations of Japanese ghost stories and the atmosphere of rural Japan.