Akago-naki: Witnessing Japan’s Crying Sumo Festival
Imagine a sumo ring, the sacred dohyo, surrounded by cheering crowds. But instead of two massive titans clashing in a feat of strength, the competitors are tiny, bewildered infants held aloft by the wrestlers. The goal? To cry. To cry loudly, passionately, and before the opponent does. This is the world of Akago-naki, the central phenomenon of Japan’s famous Naki Sumo (Crying Sumo) festivals.
For Western travelers, the sight of adults trying to induce tears in infants might seem counterintuitive, perhaps even distressing. However, in the context of traditional Japanese culture, this event is a joyous, boisterous celebration of life, health, and spiritual protection.
Introduction: The Sound of Health
In most cultures, a crying baby is a signal for parents to soothe and hush. In the context of Akago-naki, however, the wail of an infant is a powerful, life-affirming roar. Held annually at various shrines across Japan, with the most famous iteration taking place at Senso-ji Temple in Tokyo’s Asakusa district, the festival draws thousands of spectators.
The atmosphere is electric but lighthearted. Amateur sumo wrestlers, or sometimes professional students, step into the ring holding babies dressed in tiny, decorative aprons. The referee (gyoji) shouts, “Naki! Naki!” (Cry! Cry!), and the match begins. It is a surreal, heartwarming, and quintessentially Japanese experience that offers a deep dive into the country’s folk beliefs regarding childhood and spirits.
Origins: “Naku Ko wa Sodatsu”
The tradition of Akago-naki is believed to date back over 400 years to the Edo period. It is deeply rooted in the Japanese proverb, “Naku ko wa sodatsu,” which translates to “Crying children grow.”
Historically, infant mortality rates were high, and the health of a child was a constant source of anxiety for parents. A loud cry was interpreted as a sign of vitality, strong lungs, and the will to survive. Furthermore, in Shinto belief, purity and noise are often used to drive away malevolent forces. Just as sumo wrestlers stomp their feet (shiko) to crush evil spirits beneath the earth, the piercing cry of a pure, innocent baby is believed to scare away demons and bad luck, ensuring a long and healthy life for the child.
The Legend and The Rules
While the event is called a “match,” there are no losers in the eyes of the gods—every baby is blessed. However, for the sake of the ritual, there are rules.
Two wrestlers face each other, each holding a baby. When the referee signals, the competition begins. The rules vary slightly by region:
- Tokyo Style: The baby who cries first is declared the winner.
- Other Regions: Sometimes, the baby who cries the loudest or last is the victor.
If the babies are feeling particularly stoic or happy and refuse to cry, the referee interferes. He might make faces or chant loudly. If that fails, the “nuclear option” is employed: the wrestlers may don terrifying masks of a Tengu (long-nosed goblin) or an Oni (demon) and lean in close to the child’s face. The resulting terror usually guarantees a wail that echoes through the shrine grounds. Paradoxically, if a baby laughs, they are usually declared the loser of the match, though they still receive the blessing.
Modern Culture and Participation
Today, Akago-naki is less about superstition and more about tradition and community fun, though the prayer for health remains sincere. It is a massive draw for domestic and international tourists.
For Japanese parents, entering their child into the festival is a rite of passage. It is so popular that participation is often decided by a lottery system, and parents pay a participation fee (often between 10,000 to 15,000 yen) for the privilege of having a sumo wrestler make their child scream. The package usually includes the blessing, a commemorative photo, and traditional goods.
The festival highlights the softer side of Sumo culture. The wrestlers, usually seen as stoic warriors, are gentle and careful with their tiny charges, creating a visual contrast that is beloved by photographers and cultural observers alike.
Traveler’s Tips
If you wish to witness Akago-naki yourself, here is how to prepare:
- Timing is Key: The most famous festival is usually held in late April or early May, coinciding with Golden Week. Check the schedule for Senso-ji Temple in Tokyo or Gokoku Shrine in Hiroshima.
- Arrive Early: These events are incredibly popular. To get a good viewing spot near the stage, you must arrive well before the matches begin.
- Respect the Ritual: While it is funny to watch, remember this is a religious event held at a shrine. Be respectful of the parents and the staff.
- Photography: It is a photographer’s dream. Use a zoom lens to capture the expressions of the babies and the wrestlers without crowding the stage.
- Explore the Area: After the crying matches, enjoy the festive stalls (yatai) selling yakisoba and takoyaki that inevitably spring up around the shrine.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deeper spiritual roots of purification through sound and the significance of Sumo in Shinto rituals, the following texts and subjects offer context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Contains the earliest mythologies of Japan, establishing the relationship between gods, purity, and the physical world.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers historical context on the role of wrestling (Sumai) as a ritual dedicated to the gods to ensure harvest and health.
- Japanese Folk Tales: Look for stories involving Oni and child-rearing customs to understand the protective nature of fear and noise in folklore.