Unveiling the Legend of Akuemon: The Ghost of the River
Japan is a land where the line between the spiritual and the physical is often blurred, especially near its ancient rivers and mountains. While many travelers flock to Japan for its cherry blossoms and neon lights, the country’s folklore offers a deeper, darker look into its cultural psyche. One such tale is that of Akuemon (悪右衛門), a cormorant fisherman whose tragic life and death have been immortalized in Buddhist sermons, local festivals, and the classical art of Noh theater.
Introduction
In the quiet town of Isawa in Yamanashi Prefecture, the Fuefuki River flows gently, carrying with it centuries of history. It is here that the legend of Akuemon resides. Unlike the celebrated imperial cormorant fishermen of Gifu, who were protected by the state, Akuemon represents the shadowy side of this ancient profession. His story is a poignant narrative of survival, sin (according to Buddhist law), and ultimate redemption. For the cultural traveler, understanding Akuemon is key to appreciating the depth of the Ukai (cormorant fishing) traditions in the Kai region.
Origins of the Name
The name “Akuemon” is a combination of characters that immediately hints at his reputation. “Aku” (悪) translates to “evil” or “bad,” while “Emon” (右衛門) is a traditional ending for male names. However, in the context of Japanese folklore, “Aku” often signifies strength or a defiance of social norms rather than pure villainy.
Akuemon is believed to have lived during the Kamakura period (1185–1333), a time when Buddhism was spreading rapidly among the common people. The legend originates from the conflict between the livelihood of hunting and fishing—which necessitates killing—and the strict Buddhist precept of sessho (the prohibition of taking life). As a cormorant fisherman, Akuemon occupied a liminal space: essential for providing food, yet spiritually condemned by the religious laws of the time.
The Haunting Legend of Akuemon
The core legend of Akuemon is a tragedy of forbidden boundaries. According to local folklore, Akuemon was a skilled cormorant fisherman who lived in the Isawa area. At the time, certain stretches of the Fuefuki River were designated as sanctuaries where fishing was strictly prohibited. However, driven perhaps by poverty or professional pride, Akuemon ignored the ban. He ventured into the sacred waters night after night, his cormorants swallowing fish in the darkness.
Eventually, his transgression was discovered. The punishment for poaching in the sanctuary was severe and brutal. Akuemon was subjected to su-maki—he was rolled up in a reed mat or bamboo basket and thrown alive into the river to drown.
The story does not end with his death. Legend says his angry spirit (onryo) haunted the river, unable to find peace due to the weight of his sins. It was not until the great Buddhist priest Nichiren Shonin passed through Isawa that Akuemon found salvation. Nichiren, sensing the ghostly presence, wrote scripture on river stones and cast them into the water, performing a memorial service that finally allowed the fisherman’s spirit to attain Buddhahood.
Akuemon in Modern Culture and Noh Theatre
Today, Akuemon’s legacy is preserved most famously through the classical Noh play titled Ukai (The Cormorant Fisher). Written by Enami Zeami Motokiyo, a foundational figure in Noh, the play features a traveling monk who encounters the ghost of a fisherman. The ghost reenacts the toils of cormorant fishing before revealing his suffering in hell and his eventual salvation.
In Isawa Onsen (Yamanashi Prefecture), the legend is not just a story but a living tourist attraction. The town hosts the Isawa Ukai, a reenactment of the traditional fishing method. Unlike the boat-based fishing seen elsewhere, the Isawa style—known as Kachi-ukai—involves the fisherman walking directly into the river currents, leading the cormorant. This “walking style” is said to be the method Akuemon used.
Every summer, visitors can watch this spectral and beautiful performance, often accompanied by fireworks, which serves as a requiem for the tragic fisherman.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Isawa Onsen
If you wish to walk in the footsteps of Akuemon, a trip to Isawa Onsen is a must. It is located in the Fuefuki City area of Yamanashi Prefecture.
Best Time to Visit
The Isawa Ukai (cormorant fishing) reenactments typically take place during the summer months, often from late July to mid-August. The atmosphere is magical, with torches lighting up the dark river surface.
What to Do
- Watch the Ukai: Head to the banks of the Fuefuki River at night. The event is usually free for spectators. The sight of the u-sho (cormorant master) entering the water with a torch is hauntingly beautiful.
- Visit the Memorials: Look for the Ukai-do (Cormorant Fishing Temple) or local stone monuments dedicated to the legend of Akuemon and Nichiren.
- Soak in the Onsen: Isawa is a famous hot spring resort. After exploring the river, relax in the healing waters of a local ryokan.
Access
Isawa Onsen Station is easily accessible via the JR Chuo Line. It is approximately 1.5 hours from Tokyo (Shinjuku Station) by limited express train.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical context of Japanese legends and performance arts, the following texts are recommended:
- The Noh Plays of Japan: specifically the play Ukai by Zeami Motokiyo.
- Writings of Nichiren Shonin: Historical letters detailing his travels in the Kai province often reference local encounters that fueled these legends.
- Nihon Shoki / Kojiki: While these ancient texts predate Akuemon, they provide the foundational Shinto and mythological context regarding the sanctity of nature and rivers in Japan.