Fujiwara no Hidesato: The Samurai and the Centipede
In the tapestry of Japanese folklore, few threads are as vibrant as the tale of the warrior who stood unflinching before a monster on a bridge. Fujiwara no Hidesato, also known by his nickname “Tawara Toda,” is a fascinating historical figure where the lines between documented history and fantastical mythology blur. For travelers and culture enthusiasts, understanding Hidesato offers a window into the Heian period’s martial aristocracy and the rich monster-hunting legends that permeate Japanese culture today.
Introduction
Fujiwara no Hidesato lived during the 10th century, a time when the imperial court in Kyoto held sway, but provincial warriors were beginning to amass real power. While history books remember him for suppressing the violent rebellion of Taira no Masakado, folklore remembers him differently. In the popular imagination, he is the fearless archer who accepted a quest from a Dragon King to slay a giant centipede. This duality—the historical general and the mythological monster slayer—makes him a quintessential figure in Japanese heritage.
Origins: The Northern Fujiwara
Historically, Hidesato was a member of the powerful Fujiwara clan, specifically the Hokke branch. Unlike his courtly cousins writing poetry in Kyoto, Hidesato was a man of action based in the Kanto region (modern-day Tokyo and surrounding prefectures). He served as the Chinjufu-shogun (Commander-in-Chief of the Defense of the North).
His most significant historical contribution occurred in 940 AD. The samurai Taira no Masakado had declared himself the “New Emperor,” threatening the central government. Hidesato, allied with Taira no Sadamori, successfully defeated the rebel forces. This victory cemented his status as a legendary military commander and allowed his descendants to establish influential samurai lineages, including the Oshu Fujiwara clan who built the golden temples of Hiraizumi.
The Legend of Tawara Toda
While his military exploits were real, the story most Japanese people know involves the supernatural. The tale, often titled “Myriad of Centipedes,” goes as follows:
One day, Hidesato was crossing the Seta Bridge near Lake Biwa. A massive serpent lay across the bridge, blocking the path. While others fled in terror, Hidesato calmly stepped over the beast without breaking stride. That night, a beautiful woman (or a man in some versions) appeared to him, revealing that they were the Dragon King of Lake Biwa in disguise. They had been testing for a brave warrior.
The Dragon King begged Hidesato to kill a giant centipede (mukade) that lived on Mount Mikami and was poisoning the lake. Hidesato agreed. When the monster approached, its eyes burned like torches, and its body was armored. Hidesato fired two arrows, which bounced harmlessly off the creature’s shell. Before firing his third and final arrow, he moistened the tip with his own saliva (a ritualistic act of prayer or purification) and prayed to Hachiman, the god of war. The arrow struck true, piercing the centipede’s brain and killing it.
In gratitude, the Dragon King bestowed legendary gifts upon him, including a bag of rice that never emptied (hence the nickname Tawara Toda, meaning “Rice-bag Toda”) and a temple bell.
Modern Culture
The legacy of Fujiwara no Hidesato extends far beyond dusty history scrolls. His story is a staple in Noh and Kabuki theater, often dramatizing the Seta Bridge encounter. In the visual arts, distinct Ukiyo-e woodblock prints from the Edo period vividly depict the archer facing the giant insect wrapping around the mountain.
In modern pop culture, references to Tawara Toda appear in anime, manga, and video games like Fate/Grand Order and Megami Tensei. The motif of the giant centipede is a recurring enemy design in Japanese RPGs, directly owing its origins to this legend. Furthermore, the Aomori Nebuta Festival often features illuminated floats depicting Hidesato’s heroic battle, lighting up the summer night in northern Japan.
Traveler’s Tips
For those wishing to walk in the footsteps of this legend, several locations in Japan offer a connection to Fujiwara no Hidesato:
- Seta no Karahashi (Shiga Prefecture): The famous bridge where the legend began. While the structure has been rebuilt many times, it remains one of the “Three Famous Bridges of Japan” and offers stunning views of Lake Biwa, especially at sunset.
- Mount Mikami (Shiga Prefecture): Known as “Omi-Fuji” for its conical shape resembling Mount Fuji, this is the dwelling place of the legendary centipede. It is a popular hiking spot today.
- Mii-dera Temple (Shiga Prefecture): According to legend, the bell given to Hidesato by the Dragon King was donated to this temple. While the original bell has its own complex history involving Benkei the warrior monk, the temple itself is a treasure trove of history.
- Sano City (Tochigi Prefecture): This area is the stronghold of the historical Hidesato. The Karasawaanayama Shrine is dedicated to him, and the ruins of Karasawa Mountain Castle offer a glimpse into the fortifications of his descendants.
Sources & Further Reading
To dive deeper into the mythology and history surrounding Fujiwara no Hidesato, consider exploring the following texts:
- Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past): A collection of stories from the late Heian period that documents early versions of the Hidesato legends.
- Taiheiki (Chronicle of Great Peace): A 14th-century historical epic that, while focused on a later period, recounts the tale of the centipede slaying to illustrate the lineage of warrior families.
- Tsuchigumo Soshi: While often focused on giant spiders, these medieval picture scrolls (emakimono) help visualize the supernatural world of yokai that Hidesato inhabited.
While ancient texts like the Kojiki established the foundation of Japanese mythology, it is in these later medieval chronicles that Fujiwara no Hidesato shines as the bridge between the age of gods and the age of the samurai.